Jack Cox
Member
Oh awesome!That's why we use BLEvo app for Specialized ebikes to overcome this issue.
Oh awesome!That's why we use BLEvo app for Specialized ebikes to overcome this issue.
No problem if you use a GPS speedo like GarminThis:
E-Bike Tuning Solutions - PLANET3.Bike
planet3.bike
This one will mess up whatever you use for a speedo, it will read 1/2 speed (I think).
wow ! interesting setup. since both of your extremes (12 and 25) are within the range of the original, i assume the benefits here are the smaller gaps and lighter weight?Back on the original thread of this convo...
I've gone all road with my comp-carbon EVO. I bought some truly lovely Terra CLX wheels and plugged in a 12-25 cassette.
I like to spin, so the 12 cog on the 46 chainring lets me get comfortably above the assist range to about 30 mph before I spin out, that's enough, no uphills also means no downhills. No more gear gaps, although its pretty long-legged for the bottom, but usually fine on the flat roads here in Texas.
It feels so so fast! i'm delighted with the result and the bike is down to about 28 pounds with pedals, bottle cages and heavy Spesh Armadillo tires/tubes (I hate flats so I'll put up with that).
I have the Topstone Carbon Neo 3 with the lefty and the class 3, 28 mph Bosch motor. It is an amazing bike It does have a 1x11 drive train unlike the Neo 2 which has the 2x11 drive train which is what made it more relevant to this topic.That class 1 thing, no thanks. It’s a lovely bike though! I like the lefty fork on the other versions too!
Does the Bosch motor have shift detection? I will tell you I think the Creo is awfully hard on drivetrain parts. I have about 1k on my bike and the cassette looked ROUGH. (Admitted - I’m not the best at lift & shift)I have the Topstone Carbon Neo 3 with the lefty and the class 3, 28 mph Bosch motor. It is an amazing bike It does have a 1x11 drive train unlike the Neo 2 which has the 2x11 drive train which is what made it more relevant to this topic.
Bosch motors have had shift detection for quite some time now. I still ease off on pedal pressure when I shift at pedeals high and low...most of the time. It makes shifting quieter and I assume from the reduced thunks and assorted noises, helps the wear parts (chain, chainring, rear cogs) last longer.Does the Bosch motor have shift detection? I will tell you I think the Creo is awfully hard on drivetrain parts. I have about 1k on my bike and the cassette looked ROUGH. (Admitted - I’m not the best at lift & shift)
Does it make a noticeable pause in power, or just enough of a blip while it shifts to smooth things out?Bosch motors have had shift detection for quite some time now. I still ease off on pedal pressure when I shift at pedeals high and low...most of the time. It makes shifting quieter and I assume from the reduced thunks and assorted noises, helps the wear parts (chain, chainring, rear cogs) last longer.
It must be a very brief pause as I really have never noticed any hesitation of loss of momentum, even when climbing a steep grade..Does it make a noticeable pause in power, or just enough of a blip while it shifts to smooth things out?
same. shifting under load works, and i’ll do it in a pinch (sudden loss of momentum up a steep grade) but it sounds terrible and hurts my soul. just the tiniest bit of relief on the pedals is enough for my creo to shift much more smoothly and quietly.Bosch motors have had shift detection for quite some time now. I still ease off on pedal pressure when I shift at pedeals high and low...most of the time. It makes shifting quieter and I assume from the reduced thunks and assorted noises, helps the wear parts (chain, chainring, rear cogs) last longer.
And it definitely does do damage- however if I hadn’t removed the old cassette, I wouldn’t have known. It was still shifting great.same. shifting under load works, and i’ll do it in a pinch (sudden loss of momentum up a steep grade) but it sounds terrible and hurts my soul. just the tiniest bit of relief on the pedals is enough for my creo to shift much more smoothly and quietly.
Hi, I had a problem with a replacement for the front wheel due to original being 110mm Boost and all wheels on offer were 100mm. I just got some aluminium tube that slid over the axle 5mm in length both sides and it works fine. I cant see why this would not work on the rear wheelI've posted before that I really like the Creo but my two biggest complaints about the bike are the odd spacing for the wheels which makes it a lot harder to buy a second set and the 1X drivetrain. I normally ride with not that much assist so I like to have a nice range of gears. I find the 1X drivetrain results in have a "gappy cassette" since it's an 11 speed 11-42. I find myself in the lower part of the cassette often and having difficulty finding the right gear for the cadence I want to ride.
But now Powershift is selling their wheels that aim to get rid of the front derailleur and effectively put it into the rear hub. This is great news as this wheelset combined with our bikes will give us the gearing range as if the bike had a 2X drivetrain. Well almost, the size of the chainring is a bit small and means you can't really get that high gear you want.
The problem is that they don't offer the wheel in the spacing we need for the Creo. I've already gone on the company's website asking if they'll make a wheelset that will fit the Creo. If you feel the same way please post a similar message. I can only hope they make this in the correct size for the Creo.
Classified release carbon wheels with Powershift geared hub for road and gravel bikes
The wait is over: Finally you can equip your own bike with the Classified geared hub! All information, prices and a test can be found here.granfondo-cycling.com
Contact
Classified introduces POWERSHIFT, a wireless shifting technology system in the rear hub. Contact us.classified-cycling.cc
Putting 110mm axle on a boost bike can be done but, in addition to 5 mm spacers on each side, you also need to offset the disc brake rotor. You can get an inexpensive kit on ebay to make an easy job of it,Hi, I had a problem with a replacement for the front wheel due to original being 110mm Boost and all wheels on offer were 100mm. I just got some aluminium tube that slid over the axle 5mm in length both sides and it works fine. I cant see why this would not work on the rear wheel
The real issue with this kit is that the front wheel is a 12mm axle, not 15.Putting 110mm axle on a boost bike can be done but, in addition to 5 mm spacers on each side, you also need to offset the disc brake rotor. You can get an inexpensive kit on ebay to make an easy job of it,
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