Converting old Raleigh 3 speed

I forgot to put the photo: same company
Thank you. Now I will buy some of the new chains for myself. These new chains are great! The price is right and they can come in longer lengths than most single speed chains, many of which are designed for little BMX bikes. With long bikes like Townies I have to use two chains, splicing them together. Now one will do the trick. Perfect. Here is a Townie.
 

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Thank you. Now I will buy some of the new chains for myself. These new chains are great! The price is right and they can come in longer lengths than most single speed chains, many of which are designed for little BMX bikes. With long bikes like Townies I have to use two chains, splicing them together. Now one will do the trick. Perfect. Here is a Townie.
Yay! Glad I can be of some help!
 
What company makes the chain you mentioned?
Here is that rack in British Racing Green. It comes in 10 colors, from PublicBikes.com, with free shipping. It is lightweight, holds 60 pounds, 25Kg and is stylish. Most are boxy. This is curvy, sort of Deco.
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I am looking at the original vintage rack. Any ideas, pros, cons?
 

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There are at least 2 types of carrier. One sort like in the pic is pressed steel, the other is tube steel. I've got the tube steel type.
 
Now I see the photo. I think that a new vintage looking rack would be better. Those ones from Public are lightweight and strong aluminum alloy. You would not need to spend hours sanding and repainting. This is not a historic restoration. I carried 60 pounds on mine yesterday.
 
I am looking at the original vintage rack. Any ideas, pros, cons?
It's probably just me but if that is the rack you have on your bike already I'd just take a wire wheel on a drill to knock off loose paint and rust then spray it with truck bed liner. A can cost about $10 and when well dried it provides a textured durable non slip surface. I've used whatever brands the local store had on the shelf and it has always worked well for me for various projects. If sprayed on the spring it may make that part non-useable if you coat the spring and let it dry. Maybe flexing the spring frequently while drying would keep it from fusing - I don't know.

Here is one brand on Amazon. I'm not sure if I used this brand before or not.
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Now I see the photo. I think that a new vintage looking rack would be better. Those ones from Public are lightweight and strong aluminum alloy. You would not need to spend hours sanding and repainting. This is not a historic restoration. I carried 60 pounds on mine yesterday.
I will give it a look, thanks. Ah, the one you showed me before. Do you miss having that spring loaded clamp on it?

I do like their front rack.
 
spring loaded clamp
The same rack from ten-years-ago did have a spring loaded clamp. It was only good for a library book. I like to buy thick bungee by the foot. On an eight-foot length I make a loop knot in the middle and can carry just about anything. The loop can cinch around the seat post. Cross the lengths and secure with a double half-hitch. My plumber's bag will collapse flat so larger objects can go on top.
 

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The same rack from ten-years-ago did have a spring loaded clamp. It was only good for a library book. I like to buy thick bungee by the foot. On an eight-foot length I make a loop knot in the middle and can carry just about anything. The loop can cinch around the seat post. Cross the lengths and secure with a double half-hitch. My plumber's bag will collapse flat so larger objects can go on top.
You need to ride to the library more! Ahahaha
I gotta look up a double half hitch.
Like to see your strap configuration in action!
 
The same rack from ten-years-ago did have a spring loaded clamp. It was only good for a library book. I like to buy thick bungee by the foot. On an eight-foot length I make a loop knot in the middle and can carry just about anything. The loop can cinch around the seat post. Cross the lengths and secure with a double half-hitch. My plumber's bag will collapse flat so larger objects can go on top.

There are at least 2 types of carrier. One sort like in the pic is pressed steel, the other is tube steel. I've got the tube steel type.
May I see a picture please?
 
It's probably just me but if that is the rack you have on your bike already I'd just take a wire wheel on a drill to knock off loose paint and rust then spray it with truck bed liner. A can cost about $10 and when well dried it provides a textured durable non slip surface. I've used whatever brands the local store had on the shelf and it has always worked well for me for various projects. If sprayed on the spring it may make that part non-useable if you coat the spring and let it dry. Maybe flexing the spring frequently while drying would keep it from fusing - I don't know.

Here is one brand on Amazon. I'm not sure if I used this brand before or not.
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Good idea for a chipped up paint job or the wrong color. That was a pic I found online to show the kind I might get.
 
Good idea for a chipped up paint job or the wrong color. That was a pic I found online to show the kind I might get.
I will show the way I use bungee the next time I mount a large object. Here are more of those racks I like for classic bikes. I purchased the blood red one for a matching red bike today. They are made from tubular alloy. Not many racks come in pink. The British racing green glows like a jewel. There is even a teal one.
Edit: Here is how I use a bungee for larger objects. Click below to enlarge and zoom. 1) Loop that is cinched. 2) Cross with double half-hitch knots. 3) Collapsed tool bag with rack routing of the bungee. This setup takes seconds to tie or untie.
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