Commuter bike for total newcomer

[cost2much]

Hi,
I'm looking for commuter ebike recommendations for a total newbie. In short, I have very little experience with bikes: I've never personally owned one and barely can ride well. Despite that, I find the idea of using a bike as a complete car substitute super appealing, and I'd love try out the lifestyle. I've tried to do some research, but with me having 0 context for the value of gear shifts or different suspensions in regular bikes, adding ebike variables like motor manufacturer to the mix only makes the search more overwhelming. And to be quite frank, I just don't care to an extent; I don't think I'll ever be super into bike tech and I simply want a solution that works. That statement will definitely be very frustrating to some enthusiasts, so I apologize; if it makes it better, treat this as analogous to shopping a new computer for your grandma.

I'll primarily be using the bike for 13 mile Seattle commutes (26 mile roundtrip) to work, so roads will mostly be paved but it is a bit hilly and there will be rainy weather. I'm decently fit (in my 20s) and have a build of 5' 10" weighting ~160 lbs. My main criteria concerns durability/longevity or ease of use, as I might use it daily for years and don't wanna deal with troubleshooting. But secondary is comfort or cargo carrying capability (would like a more upright bike). I'm fine with higher price tag, but I prefer spending less seeing as it is my first bike purchase and I likely wouldn't be able even to appreciate the features of fancier bikes (don't need a tracking feature lol). I'll have a garage to store the bike in, so folding and such features aren't important (also, I don't mind high step).

My primary current consideration is the Dost Kope, solely because it's listed as the "best value" under the commuter electric bike section on the review website. Although, another option I found on craigslist was a used Stromer ST3 for $4500 with 200 miles on it; I'd like to hear thoughts on whether that's a good value/fit. I'm also fine with purchasing an ebike online and having it shipped to me; trying out bikes at a local store seems a bit silly when I don't even know what to look/feel for.

Love to hear any thoughts and thanks for dealing with my inexperience.

 

[fooferdoggie]

man thats a long commute if your not used to riding. even with a e bike your going to need to build up to it. with so little knowledge yo really need to go to a shop and do test rides. you need a bike with support behind it.

 

[indianajo]

The dost kope looks like a substantial package. Bafang mid drive, 2.4" tires, suspension. Comes with throttle which is rare in mid-drives. I find my throttle useful for days when my knee has been overstressed. Also for quick takeoffs across 6 lane highways when the light is too short or won't turn green at all because bicycles are invisible to vehicle sensors.
Negatives, you'll have to change the chain every 1000-2000 miles because of the mid drive. Because of the display you can't turn the bike upside down to change a tube in case of the inevitable flat. Because of the mid-drive, if you run a chain off the end or bend a derailleur on a stick (I've done both) you fix the problem right there or call for a tow. Laying on the ground in work clothes could be expensive. Hub drive bikes, if the chain drops off you twist the throttle & ride home without pedaling.
For $800 more you can have a dost kope CVT which has a gates belt that might last 10000 miles before replacement if you don't bend it with a stick or something.
Negatives? Other people may not have a problem, but I went over the handlebars onto my chin on a MTB or cruiser bike 5 times 2008-2017. I would hit a pavement separator sticking out 2", a ridge of gravel, a speed bump at 8 mph, a stick. The handlebar would jerk sideways, the tire would dig in. the seat would lift & over I would go. Upright posture means the weight on the front wheel is less than the back. If you shop, weight in rear panniers lifts the front tire. I measured my MTB with groceries at 120 lb rear 20 lb front once without me on it. I was knocked off the seat once by a dog running into the front wheel. Groceries went all over Hwy 3.
I checked 220 frames for 26" wheels, and all had the same stupid trail. Fast steering, who need it? Bike review sites apparently. Policemen. My Mother's 1946 Firestone safety bike with the same tires & wheels didn't have the problem. Stable as a rock. I talked to some custom frame builders, none would discuss doing anything different with the front fork.
The stretch frame cargo bike shown in the avatar has been totally stable over 9000 miles & 4 1/2 years since 1/2018. I think it has something to do with my weight being on the front tire, instead of the front being light.
You did mention shopping didn't you? I live without a car, hauling most purchases home unless it is heavy enough to rent a U-haul truck. I carry 60 lb groceries to summer camp most weeks in summer, 80 lb sometimes when I have ag chemicals, a tractor battery or a tire or something.
The replacement for the bike in my avatar , a yuba bodaboda, has a shimano mid drive with the disadvantages of the bafang mid drive plus less power and no gates belt option. The closest in price is the yuba kombi, which has a steel frame now. Unnecessary weight. My bodaboda has an aluminum frame.
I think the best deal in cargo bikes now is the blix packa. Costs $2000 without the extra battery option. Has a hub drive, which can wear out in ~5000 miles. I keep a spare power wheel in my garage and can pedal home a worn out hub drive & change it in two hours. Chains take me 3 hours, and take a lot more special tools than changing a power wheel. I'm not really strong enough to snap the link in position. Blix had 1 known problem on the brand forum last time I checked, which is excellent for a brand 12 years old. Dost has 19 posts which is nothing like Rad that had 289 last time I looked.
The stromer for $4500 is overpriced. The used market is where problem bikes gravitate, the ones that never work for the owner but never show any symptoms at the shop. I wouldn't buy an ebike used. They don't have a special computer at bike shops to diagnose problems the way car dealers do.
Happy shopping & later riding.

 

[Dewey]

I agree with the advice above to buy from a bike shop that will service the bike. There's not a "one and done" ebike out there, even with a CVT it would be good to take your bike into a shop once or twice a year to have the brakes checked as pads and cables wear out, and clean the drivetrain/replace the chain if you get a bike with a derailleur. A higher speed (28mph) Class 3 ebike would be useful for you riding longer distance on roads. Test ride a few bikes.

If you want to consider a Class 3 cargo bike but don't want to spend over five grand, the Momentum Pakyak can be bought and serviced at a Giant dealer and uses a Yamaha motor, or there is the Magnum Payload. Alternatively if you can find a bike shop prepared to build and service a DIY ebike, EBR forum member @m@Robertson has posted on his blog a guide for a low-cost Mongoose Envoy conversion using the same BBS02 motor as the Dost Kope you mentioned, if you went down this road the drivetrain upgrades Matt describes are well worth the additional cost so I'd go with his Build #4.

 

[sc00ter]

I 4th support the above advice. I used to commute by ebike 14 miles each way. No hills but it was on a main road. 45mph means 60mph. No dedicated bike paths either, I just jumped on the sidewalk. It can be done and I'm not trying to discourage you. You can get into your commute in 2 ways.

Buy a cheap sub-$1500 ebike to see if you'll actually do this ride often enough before committing real money. My favorite commuter ebike for my 14 mile death ride was a RadRunner. The 20" wheels helped touch the ground easier at stops.

I really like the Dost ebikes, and I could live with a 26" wheel size, But that's a much larger investment, even with the current sale. A local bike shop will sell ebikes in the price range as well with the added bonus of local support if needed.

I've discovered, after owning several ebikes, is I really dread this commute. I just picked up a cheap Lectric XP 3.0. No frills but it has all the features of my RadRunner that I loved. I did buy an extra battery charger to leave in my desk at work, just in case the weather tempts me. Good luck on your quest and let us know if you have other questions and/or what ebike you end up with!

 

[AHicks]

Making this kind of a jump with no prior experience sounds suicidal to me. I would darn sure want to test the water. Maybe buy a cheepy and do a little riding locally to see how you get along with the bike before making the big jump required to park the car....

 

[procreator]

Maybe you can try a hybrid plan like my son does. He takes his bike to work in his car in the morning, then rides it home at night. The next day he'll ride to work in the morning and drive home at night, leaving his bike in his office. Drive to work the next morning, and so forth. The only risk is if it is raining the day when he would need to ride back in to work on his bike.

 

[PSm]

Hi,
I'm looking for commuter ebike recommendations for a total newbie. In short, I have very little experience with bikes: I've never personally owned one and barely can ride well. Despite that, I find the idea of using a bike as a complete car substitute super appealing, and I'd love try out the lifestyle. I've tried to do some research, but with me having 0 context for the value of gear shifts or different suspensions in regular bikes, adding ebike variables like motor manufacturer to the mix only makes the search more overwhelming. And to be quite frank, I just don't care to an extent; I don't think I'll ever be super into bike tech and I simply want a solution that works. That statement will definitely be very frustrating to some enthusiasts, so I apologize; if it makes it better, treat this as analogous to shopping a new computer for your grandma.

I'll primarily be using the bike for 13 mile Seattle commutes (26 mile roundtrip) to work, so roads will mostly be paved but it is a bit hilly and there will be rainy weather. I'm decently fit (in my 20s) and have a build of 5' 10" weighting ~160 lbs. My main criteria concerns durability/longevity or ease of use, as I might use it daily for years and don't wanna deal with troubleshooting. But secondary is comfort or cargo carrying capability (would like a more upright bike). I'm fine with higher price tag, but I prefer spending less seeing as it is my first bike purchase and I likely wouldn't be able even to appreciate the features of fancier bikes (don't need a tracking feature lol). I'll have a garage to store the bike in, so folding and such features aren't important (also, I don't mind high step).

My primary current consideration is the Dost Kope, solely because it's listed as the "best value" under the commuter electric bike section on the review website. Although, another option I found on craigslist was a used Stromer ST3 for $4500 with 200 miles on it; I'd like to hear thoughts on whether that's a good value/fit. I'm also fine with purchasing an ebike online and having it shipped to me; trying out bikes at a local store seems a bit silly when I don't even know what to look/feel for.

Love to hear any thoughts and thanks for dealing with my inexperience.

Most important words from the OP :
“In short, I have very little experience with bikes: I've never personally owned one and barely can ride well.”

To not cause yourself or others undue risk, I’d recommend:
1) find some in-person bike classes if you can, to learn how to ride properly and safely
2) rent or borrow a bike, for multiple times or an extended period, to determine if it’s right for you before you make the commitment

 

[m@Robertson]

As someone who has been commute-cycling since I was in my teens - which was in the early 1970's - I've been around this block a bit. Nowadays I am building ebikes frame-up, ranging from for-fun emtb's to some really serious cargo stuff, since nowadays I also try and do the whole auto replacement thing (with an auto in the garage just in case).

@cost2much I think you are setting yourself up for a fall, and its a pretty common scenario: You bite off more than you can chew, and the bike becomes a garage queen or gets sold off. Here's what I would do: Do NOT jump into the deep end right off the bat. You are going to run into a ton of things you didn't expect, and you want to be able to work thru those things incrementally, without exhausting your budget or your patience.

You don't need bicycle riding classes. You need bicycle riding. Part of cycling for utility rather than fitness is determination. As in willpower. Find out if you have it for this. Cycling is not a thing you do for relaxation (although if you like riding, you get that as a side benefit which is great after a long day), cycling is part of your drab, daily routine. It will give you a side benefit of strong constitution and lots of exercise - even with the electric assist. But thats on the side.

I do agree that someone with your professed complete lack of experience, that a locally-purchased ebike, long term, is a very good idea, as you have the ability to write a check, ride out the door and ride back for any kind of service, routine or emergency. BUT that requires a significant up-front investment. I suggest instead you do those baby steps: Find a low-cost ebike that will let you try things out. Since you are in a hilly area, ordinarily I'd say that for sure a mid-drive is in order, but there is a lower-cost option that uses a hub: Something with 20" tires. A folder. That will also get you your upright position. In particular there is the Lectric XP. Their 3.0 version has a built in rack and there is a long-range version you should opt for. The 20" tires will give the bike a torque advantage over larger tires - hub motors power thru the axle, so they are single-speed. Smaller tires help overcome this weakness. This is also a bike that can reach Class 3 speeds. You'll find that to be really useful when an ebike is a tool to get you places rather than just see the sights.

By no means am I advocating the right long term solution for you. What I am pitching is a purely short-term solution that MIGHT last you forever if you happen to fall in love with it, but more likely you will ride this thing for a time and decide whether you like the idea in the first place, and the lifestyle that goes with it. If you decide in favor of it, then you will have ample time to look for another bike that eliminates whatever weakness you think this one has. My dad used to say the best time to find a job is when you already have a job. This is also true for finding a new bike.

I'm skipping all the stuff about what kind of bike is best suited to a commute etc. etc. None of that matters right now. You need to figure out whether you are the one guy in ten or so who tries this and, with experience under your belt, sticks with it.

 

[indianajo]

Since you are in a hilly area, ordinarily I'd say that for sure a mid-drive is in order, but there is a lower-cost option that uses a hub: Something with 20" tires. A folder. That will also get you your upright position. In particular there is the Lectric XP. Their 3.0 version has a built in rack and there is a long-range version you should opt for. The 20" tires will give the bike a torque advantage over larger tires - hub motors power thru the axle, so they are single-speed. Smaller tires help overcome this weakness. This is also a bike that can reach Class 3 speeds. You'll find that to be really useful when an ebike is a tool to get you places rather than just see the sights.

I am the same weight as the O.P., only 2" shorter. I ride a 26" hub motor bike across 77 hills on my 27 mile commute to my summer property, some of them 12% grade. I have climbed 15% grades with a hub motor with me & 60 lb groceries. It was quite capable. I view the idea of a 20" wheel bike as a good way to get O.P. to buy a motor vehicle. You can't always miss potholes, particularly when it is raining or has snowed. The shock of a 20" bike hitting a hole versus a 26" is an order of magnitude different. The dost with suspension would be even better than 26" fix frame bike as I ride.
The only mid-drive speeds that matter for hills are 46:46 (the dost kope has one) and all the others. 46:46 puts all the motor torque on the road to climb nearly anything. All the others make the rider go faster, not climb better. 95% of mid drive bikes don't have a 46 tooth rear. My hub motor tops out at 25 mph with me sitting vertically, but I find 8-10 mph suitable for not injuring myself when I fall off. I was going 25 downhill when I hit & broke my chin in 2017. You will fall off. 15 mph doesn't hurt much, especially in long sleeve long leg polyester clothes with gloves & helmet. I have found a helmet with chin guard since the 2017 accident, a Fox Rampage. I've been hit by cars twice since 2017. Neither hit broke anything but bike parts. I'm above the hood of a car on 26" wheels. I wear a yellow/green reflective ANSI 2 construction vest, but drivers don't look in front of the car when they are turning right on red. They look left so see if another car is going to hit them.
I carry at all times a rain poncho, 2 bags to cover the seat & throttle from rain, a breathable rain resistant jacket. October to May the jacket rolled up takes 1.5 cubic feet. June to September the jacket is 0.5 cu ft. I carry thin polyester gloves to prevent road rash, and thick cold resistant gloves in winter. I carry 2 pairs sunglasses & a clear safety glass to keep rocks out of my eyes at night. I carry a 500 lumen light in a peanut butter jar to keep it from shorting out in the rain (which previous ones have done). 2 flashing red lights are mounted on the rear of the bike under rain shields. I carry a 8 lb 6'x1/2" SS sling and a 2 lb lock. I carry 8 lb of tools in a kids pencil box. I carry 3 tubes and a spare tire. I carry 60 oz water summer, 40 oz winter. When I had only 2 tubes I ended up walking 7 miles to a friend's house at 4 AM to beg a ride to town to buy another. Before fold up tires (the schwinns fall off the wheel) I blew a tire sidewall & pushed the bike + groceries 7 miles to camp where I had a spare.
If you live in town and can call a wrecker when you have a flat or bend a takeup or something, you can leave a lot of those supplies out. Living without a car, getting the broken bike to a shop involves pushing it the distance, renting a U-haul, or hiring a wrecker. None of my friends have a SUV or pickup. Bikes won't fit in most taxis and stretch frame bikes won't fit on bus racks. Wreckers start at $80 here, +$2 a mile or more. My nearest shop is 4.5 miles away and the u-haul rental lot is 2 miles. Both are 27-31 miles from the summer property. I prefer to do my own work to pushing the bike.

 

[PSm]

As someone who has been commute-cycling since I was in my teens - which was in the early 1970's - I've been around this block a bit. Nowadays I am building ebikes frame-up, ranging from for-fun emtb's to some really serious cargo stuff, since nowadays I also try and do the whole auto replacement thing (with an auto in the garage just in case).

@cost2much I think you are setting yourself up for a fall, and its a pretty common scenario: You bite off more than you can chew, and the bike becomes a garage queen or gets sold off. Here's what I would do: Do NOT jump into the deep end right off the bat. You are going to run into a ton of things you didn't expect, and you want to be able to work thru those things incrementally, without exhausting your budget or your patience.

You don't need bicycle riding classes. You need bicycle riding. Part of cycling for utility rather than fitness is determination. As in willpower. Find out if you have it for this. Cycling is not a thing you do for relaxation (although if you like riding, you get that as a side benefit which is great after a long day), cycling is part of your drab, daily routine. It will give you a side benefit of strong constitution and lots of exercise - even with the electric assist. But thats on the side.

I do agree that someone with your professed complete lack of experience, that a locally-purchased ebike, long term, is a very good idea, as you have the ability to write a check, ride out the door and ride back for any kind of service, routine or emergency. BUT that requires a significant up-front investment. I suggest instead you do those baby steps: Find a low-cost ebike that will let you try things out. Since you are in a hilly area, ordinarily I'd say that for sure a mid-drive is in order, but there is a lower-cost option that uses a hub: Something with 20" tires. A folder. That will also get you your upright position. In particular there is the Lectric XP. Their 3.0 version has a built in rack and there is a long-range version you should opt for. The 20" tires will give the bike a torque advantage over larger tires - hub motors power thru the axle, so they are single-speed. Smaller tires help overcome this weakness. This is also a bike that can reach Class 3 speeds. You'll find that to be really useful when an ebike is a tool to get you places rather than just see the sights.

By no means am I advocating the right long term solution for you. What I am pitching is a purely short-term solution that MIGHT last you forever if you happen to fall in love with it, but more likely you will ride this thing for a time and decide whether you like the idea in the first place, and the lifestyle that goes with it. If you decide in favor of it, then you will have ample time to look for another bike that eliminates whatever weakness you think this one has. My dad used to say the best time to find a job is when you already have a job. This is also true for finding a new bike.

I'm skipping all the stuff about what kind of bike is best suited to a commute etc. etc. None of that matters right now. You need to figure out whether you are the one guy in ten or so who tries this and, with experience under your belt, sticks with it.

Have to disagree on the no need for cycling classes comment. Sure, most of us that have plenty of biking experience might not need it. But I know less experienced cyclists that found classes really helpful. Learning about proper technique for cornering, braking, navigating traffic, signals, etc.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Have to disagree on the no need for cycling classes comment. Sure, most of us that have plenty of biking experience might not need it. But I know less experienced cyclists that found classes really helpful. Learning about proper technique for cornering, braking, navigating traffic, signals, etc.

plus how to ride on the road. like not riding the wrong direction.

 

[m@Robertson]

Yeah and I'll have to disagree with your disagreements We learn best by doing. It can't hurt to take a class I suppose, but the core benefit will come from learn-by-doing. Turn this into a big health/safety project and it becomes an idea that risks death by suffocation.

Now, from a pure always-err-on-the-side-of-safety standpoint you are right. Everyone should take classes and education is never a bad thing. But I'll maintain that the most important thing to do here at the beginning is start riding. Get out of the house. Realize some positive benefits to go along with the desire and aspiration. Start gaining that experience. After that when you are already in the game, do all the googling and class-taking you want.

The only mid-drive speeds that matter for hills are 46:46 (the dost kope has one) and all the others. 46:46 puts all the motor torque on the road to climb nearly anything. All the others make the rider go faster, not climb better.

As always when you spout this, it is utter nonsense. Everyone who has ever ridden (rided?) a bicycle up a hill knows shifting up to ANY bigger cog in the back from whatever cog it is you are on makes it easier to ride. Likewise, bikes with multiple front chainrings - whatever is smaller in front makes it easier to pedal. There is zero truth to this bizarre contention that one gear is for climbing and all the rest are for speed. @cost2much with their limited stated experience may be the only one vulnerable to this sort of disinformation, which actively hurts people's ability to make a sound decision on bikes.

How do bike gears work? A simple and detailed explainer for beginners intermediates

If you don't have a clue how many gears your bike has (let alone how to use them!) we've got you covered with this simple explainer. For more depth, just keep on reading

www.cyclingweekly.com

an excerpt from that article is particularly on point:

"...Let’s be clear about one thing — having lots of gears is not about making the bike faster..."

and another with another useful excerpt:

How Bicycle Gears Work | How To Use Bicycle Gears | Bicycleuniverse.com

How do bicycle gears work? Which gears should you use when? We go into the detail of how bicycle gears work and how to use them the right way.

bicycleuniverse.com

Here’s pretty much all you need to know about shifting gears:

• If you’re going uphill and it’s too difficult, shift down.
• If your legs are spinning the pedals way too fast (it’s too “easy”) then shift up.

That’s it, in a nutshell. Of course, there are nuances but that’s 90% of what you need to know.

 

[TPEHAK]

I commute in Seattle 18 miles one way (36 miles round trip). With 13 miles one way commute you need at least 500Wh battery and 2 chargers ar work and at home (or take one charger with you).

If you are going to use mid drive motor ebike then you will likely consider to install gear hub instead of derailleur because of ebike motor wears out sprockets and chains fast and drivetrain stars skipping and you have to replace those components quite often spending time and money besides necessity to clean it. I use now Kindernay XIV gearhub and I did not change the chain 2 years already riding it only in the rain, I cleaned the chain just one time per 2 years, the chain is stretched far beyond the chain checker limit and the chainring teeth look like shark fins, but it still works flawlessly without skipping. With derailleur I replaced chains and sprocket at least 2 times per year and it usually started skipping at 2 highest gears after 1-2 months rendering them useless.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I commute in Seattle 18 miles one way (36 miles round trip). With 13 miles one way commute you need at least 500Wh battery and 2 chargers ar work and at home (or take one charger with you).

If you are going to use mid drive motor ebike then you will likely consider to install gear hub instead of derailleur because of ebike motor wears out sprockets and chains fast and drivetrain stars skipping and you have to replace those components quite often spending time and money besides necessity to clean it. I use now Kindernay XIV gearhub and I did not change the chain 2 years already riding it only in the rain, I cleaned the chain just one time per 2 years, the chain is stretched far beyond the chain checker limit and the chainring teeth look like shark fins, but it still works flawlessly without skipping. With derailleur I replaced chains and sprocket at least 2 times per year and it usually started skipping at 2 highest gears after 1-2 months rendering them useless.

not really I got 12,000 miles out of my bosch powered bikes drivetrain. a chain every 2500 miles

 

[PSm]

Making this kind of a jump with no prior experience sounds suicidal to me. I would darn sure want to test the water. Maybe buy a cheepy and do a little riding locally to see how you get along with the bike before making the big jump required to park the car..

TBH, I typically ride 4000 miles+ a year, but I personally wouldn’t commute your distance if I had to deal with a lot of traffic. If roads and your route is decent, then it might not be a problem at all (if you have bike handling skills and confidence).

And I’ve seen A LOT of dumb moves by cars and bicyclists alike, so just trying to make sure a new and OP stated low confidence rider can deal with the situation. Yes, there is no substitute for just getting out there and riding. But do it intelligently.

p.s. - not to scare anyone off, but I also have seen several cyclists on the side of the road injured each year… so just don’t take things for granted. Don’t be a statistic.

p.p.s. - I love my belt drive ebike for the low maintenance, cleanliness and smoothness/quiet, so hard for me to go back to a chain after being spoiled

 

[m@Robertson]

not really I got 12,000 miles out of my bosch powered bikes drivetrain. a chain every 2500 miles

Agreed completely. Mid drive rider complaints of fast wear typically are rooted in a sloppy build that didn't follow basic rules and care. It does take more attention to detail to build a mid - That is work the bicycle manufacturer has already done in the case of a Bosch-powered or similar factory bike. My daily driver is at present an 11s Bullitt with a BBSHD and a SRAM drivetrain. I am right at 2700 miles on the original chain.

There is a companion article to this one for builders. This one is focused on riders.

How To Ride a Mid Drive Ebike Without Breaking It

If you can ride a bicycle you already know how to ride a hub drive ebike. Not so a mid drive. Particularly a powerful one that can tear your chain apart. Fear not. The rules are simple.

talesontwowheels.com

 

[PedalUma]

If you wanted to learn to play the guitar would you by a $12,000 one to start. Or would you want a starter guitar to practice with and if you liked it and were getting better and more comfortable, then maybe consider an upgrade? I was already a cyclist before my first eBike. So I only needed to learn the electric part. That transition was easy for me.

 

[TrevorB]

See if there is any long term hire/lease schemes avaliable that way you can see bike commuting is right for you.

Work colleague bought my old ebike for commuting. I don't think he as used it twice in last two years. Pity as it is excellent bike that shouldn't be collecting dust in garage.

 

[TPEHAK]

I think I need to clarify the situation with derailleur systems on e-bikes for commute a little bit. When I had derailleur speed system I spent 70% of commute time on 2 highest gears (at speed 20-25 mph) which are 11 and 13 teeth cogs (combined with 44 teeth front chain ring, 27.5" wheel and derestricted Yamaha PW-X motor). If you ride slow and use highest gears no more than maybe 2-5% of cycling time then sure it might still work without skipping on those 11 and 13 teeth cogs (chain slides on the cogs) after 2500 miles. But I doubt you want to ride slow during commute, so you are likely going to use those smallest cogs often and trust me those small sprockets do not last more than 1-2 months of daily commute and start skipping even with new chain after this period of time. You basically have to replace both small cogs and chain together each 1-2 months if you want to ride fast and you will hate it. The rest of the cogs last for pretty long time, but they are SLOW.