Chain Wear
- Thread starter Bilbo625
- Start date
Mr. Coffee
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- A Demented Corner of the North Cascades
I get about 1500 miles on a chain. But I am riding in atrocious dirty and dusty conditions with many long, steep hills.
It really depends on wear you ride.
It really depends on wear you ride.
rich c
Well-Known Member
Chain wear is based on your maintenance schedule, your shifting method, how hard you ride, and terrain. I had a trekking bike that made it to 3,000 miles. But either measure the stretch or get a chain stretch measuring tool to check the wear. Go too long and you damage gears.
theemartymac
Well-Known Member
Drive can have an impact too. Hubs are often nicer on chains as the power doesn't go through them. Big Mids can shorten the life as the power is driven through the chain. My hub bike has the original chain and virtually no measurable wear at 2,000kms, while my mid has similar mileage and is on it's second chain now.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
2000 miles in winter and 2500 when iti s not raining. thats when the chain reached .5
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
Unless you use a chain stretch tool, like the one that Gordon71 linked to, you're possibly replacing a chain before it needs to be replaced.
Why would you throw a chain away that still has more km life?
The tool is only $12.
Why would you throw a chain away that still has more km life?
The tool is only $12.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
He would be more scared if he discovered the chain has been already stretched too much. My own experience with the first chain on my Vado: it cost me replacing the expensive cassette.
So I have a Bafang mid drive 1000 watt motor on my Specialized Crosstrail. I replaced the chain last year when I did the conversion and then replaced the chain and cassette ($90) about 5 months ago and now the bike tech said it needs both again. He showed me the stretch and how the gears are getting chewed up. He says he's seen lots of these issues lately with the bigger motors. The conversion only has 1800 miles and I'm kinda wondering if this is going to be an expensive continuing problem. Are you guys seeing this? And is there a stronger less stretchy chain?
FWIW My bike guy is really cool and doesn't charge me most times for things like gear adjustment. So I bring a six pack of craft beer for his trouble.
FWIW My bike guy is really cool and doesn't charge me most times for things like gear adjustment. So I bring a six pack of craft beer for his trouble.
6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
I find it's more economical to spend a bit more and use a quality e-bike rated chain like these from KMC:
kmcchain.us
I get almost twice the mileage with these chains if I clean & lube them a few times per season.
KMC Chain - Official US Store
Bicycle Chains designed for road, mountain, cyclocross, gravel and more. Compatible with Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo components. Less noise. Built for strength and speed.
kmcchain.us
I get almost twice the mileage with these chains if I clean & lube them a few times per season.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
I had very unpleasant experiences with two chains I have recently bought:
- Shimano CN-HG54 10s, 116L came without the connecting pin. Eventually, I bought the connecting pins from an LBS. These were not cheap!
- KMC X10E, 10s, 114L... (Dedicated to e-bikes). It came with the master link. It turned out the chain was a tad too thick to accommodate the master link! I had to ask the LBS for help: the techie eventually connected the chain after a lot of huffing and puffing. Another KMC chain I used before could connect without any issue!
Hey 6ZF, that link takes me to a DLC12 chain that costs $140!!!! It must be made from the same gold used in Trump's toilet. 
Or is there another chain that works? Like the E9 for only $50.
And Cow, did you do 4100 miles on 1 chain?
Thanks everybody.
Or is there another chain that works? Like the E9 for only $50.
And Cow, did you do 4100 miles on 1 chain?
Thanks everybody.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
I replaced the chain in my Vado after 1 year and nearly 2,000 miles ridden. The chain was so stretched (1%) that it damaged two smallest cogs in the cassette.
I replaced the chain in my Vado SL after 5 months and 1,500 miles ridden. The chain was stretched to 0.5%, and its replacement protected the cassette that has been in use for 14 months.
6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
There are other chains on the KMC website. I wasn't sure which type you need. I have a 10 spd cassette and use this one for $49:Hey 6ZF, that link takes me to a DLC12 chain that costs $140!!!! It must be made from the same gold used in Trump's toilet.
Or is there another chain that works? Like the E9 for only $50.
And Cow, did you do 4100 miles on 1 chain?
Thanks everybody.
Amazon.com : KMC X10e Sport Bicycle Chain, Silver, 136L : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : KMC X10e Sport Bicycle Chain, Silver, 136L : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
PedalUma
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Petaluma, CA
@Rome, that chain is a road bike race day chain. The side plates are see-through to reduce weight. It is not very strong. An X-Bridge would be much better. Yes, Kilowatt bikes will Kill-o-whatever drivetrain you install. Nine-speeds are robust and can still have a good range of gear selections. I would rather change a chain before I 'need' to, just like I would rather change my shorts before I 'need' to. Changing under cloths before you absolutely have to may be uneconomic but it makes life better. Just like changing the oil in a car on a advanced maintenance schedule.
I'm a mechanical engineer. I would say, as a rule of thumb, clean the chain now and then. I take it off the wheel and let it dangle into a tub of petrol and swish it about to flush debris out and away, then put it back and use an engine oil. It's just common sense, grit will create a grinding paste. The time to change it will be when the cog shows significant 'hooking' wear, easy to spot, and so then change both the cogs and chain.
I use the same motor, but it's too new for me to be able to say about wear. But $90 for 2k seems a bit punishing re maintenance.So I have a Bafang mid drive 1000 watt motor on my Specialized Crosstrail. I replaced the chain last year when I did the conversion and then replaced the chain and cassette ($90) about 5 months ago and now the bike tech said it needs both again. He showed me the stretch and how the gears are getting chewed up. He says he's seen lots of these issues lately with the bigger motors. The conversion only has 1800 miles and I'm kinda wondering if this is going to be an expensive continuing problem. Are you guys seeing this? And is there a stronger less stretchy chain?
FWIW My bike guy is really cool and doesn't charge me most times for things like gear adjustment. So I bring a six pack of craft beer for his trouble.
I'm just going to take it as far as I dare and then replace cogs and chain with a mid-range price, branded if possible. It is the only thing in the main to be done, so I accept the cost because it is only that, and the tyres.
That said, there may be some case hardened steel cogs, and a chain with a bit more about it, BUT, really the cogs have to be to a certain standard and so too the chains, so I think just change often with new rather than pay more to change less often. Something with a known brand about mid price.
