CCS Tire Upgrade: Schwalbe, Conti, Maxxis...

See Reid's other thread extolling wide Schwalbe G-one tires.

Instead of slow heavy Marathon Pluses, consider getting a 2.35"/2" g one speed ran tubeless. 2" in the rear for wide tire clearance. Or a 2.15" Almotions, which is heavier and not as fast rolling.
 
Just ripped one of my CCS Kenda tires (probably on glass). Might as well upgrade to the Schwalbe while I'm replacing. This Amazon one is the same one that Juiced offers as an upgrade right? (700C x 45C)

Amazon link: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)


After replacing the tube it was scary riding 10 miles more on this:
busted tire.jpg
 
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Wow, that's quite a rip!

I think you're right about the tire being the same as the upgrade. Schwalbe does offer many variants of the Marathon series so it might not be the exact one. Go to the Schwalbe website as it tells you the specs of the different variants.
 
Yep, that's the one. Some people don't like the Marathon Plus but I enjoy riding on them. I find they work better towards the middle of the psi range. They were uncomfortable to ride on (for me anyway) when I pumped them up to the high end of the range. Hmmm -- I wonder if that might be why some people say they don't have much traction on wet surfaces. I haven't had that problem, but I run them on much lower pressure.
 
See Reid's other thread extolling wide Schwalbe G-one tires.

Instead of slow heavy Marathon Pluses, consider getting a 2.35"/2" g one speed ran tubeless. 2" in the rear for wide tire clearance. Or a 2.15" Almotions, which is heavier and not as fast rolling.
Gosh, but a 2.35 just won't work on a CCS rear. I had to mangle my frame's chainstays. Widest we can go on a CCS is about 2.15." Can say, too that the G-One Speed in Snakeskin 2.00" wide fits fine. It is a bit bigger than a stock Kenda. It will be bigger than a Marathon Plus and roll better and ride better.

But a big shard of glass? Well! That cuts the cake no matter the recipe!

Carry a playing card or other shim material in the rare case of a complete casing cut. Or a dollar bill.
 
Yep, that's the one. Some people don't like the Marathon Plus but I enjoy riding on them. I find they work better towards the middle of the psi range. They were uncomfortable to ride on (for me anyway) when I pumped them up to the high end of the range. Hmmm -- I wonder if that might be why some people say they don't have much traction on wet surfaces. I haven't had that problem, but I run them on much lower pressure.

Thank you, purchased! What pressure do you ride them at? I was pumping the Kenda's up to 65.
 
Never had a flat in my life before this catastrophe (thats the inner tube wrapped around).

20180725_172337.jpg
No i guess i cant limp home with an ebike flat and i am worried what damage i might have done to the sensors. So i appreciate the tire recommendations and amazon link. Lets see how my first ever replacement goes.
 
Never had a flat in my life before this catastrophe (thats the inner tube wrapped around).

View attachment 24161No i guess i cant limp home with an ebike flat and i am worried what damage i might have done to the sensors. So i appreciate the tire recommendations and amazon link. Lets see how my first ever replacement goes.

Sensors should be fine. I had a pannier bag bounce off and get jammed, in that same area, so hard that it bent spokes and cracked the bike rack and sensors we're ok.

Is your tire damaged or did you just decide you wanted a flat resistant one? For what it's worth, I'm a rookie at doing bike repairs and I did a road tube replacement. It wasn't much more difficult than a regular bike. You just need the additional tools.
 
Sensors should be fine. I had a pannier bag bounce off and get jammed, in that same area, so hard that it bent spokes and cracked the bike rack and sensors we're ok.

Is your tire damaged or did you just decide you wanted a flat resistant one? For what it's worth, I'm a rookie at doing bike repairs and I did a road tube replacement. It wasn't much more difficult than a regular bike. You just need the additional tools.

Actually that is a great question. Never having had a flat before in my life i guess i made a stuipd assumption that a new inner tube means a new tire. I'm almost too embarassed to ask where i get a replacement inner tube for my ccs, size etc.
 
No problem, you can see in the picture that I posted that the tire rubber was completely ripped so I had to replace. Just inspect the inside and outside for punctures or glass. If there is a tack or something just pull it out and the tire will still be usable. Small holes are fine, just apply a piece of duck tape on the inside of it then throw a new tube in.

If it's good, it isn't bad to have a backup tire anyways and people rave about those marathon tires. You want tubes that can fit a 700x45c tire. Something like this: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

Prices are usually better at bike stores ($7-10) so I would recommend just going in and asking for a good tube that will fit those specs with a Schrader valve and picking up two of them so you have a backup.
 
Also, because of the wire coming out of the hub you need an 18mm open ended socket with a head that can fit in a recessed space. You can see juiced bikes using one in this guide:

However if you don't want to buy their silly kit there are alternate suggestions on this forum. I bought the crescent socket set so it would be useful for other things too.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
 
Hello, gang:

Just an observation that "heavy" applied to electric bike tires needs to be left by the 19# push racer door, not ported to the 50# electric bike garage...does anyone seriously think an increase in rotating weight makes an iota of difference in throttle assisted sprints?

As a former back-of-the-pack racer and much more successful Canadian Maritimes tourist, seeing such tickles my lol relay. Back to intervals...just kidding. These days, I'm lucky not to fall over. As ever, a road rider, one foot to the left of the line...a John Forester/Effective Cycling devotee.

Just getting back to two wheels after decades away and devouring free details on this incredible site before parting with hard-earned $$+$$. (did I include enough $$? Jeez!) Juiced does seem to stand alone in the sub $4k market. Tires, as always, are extremely important, whether on a 97mph scooter or a 20+ mph bike.

Btw, in the interim, had tremendous good luck with Ride-on brand tire sealant...35k miles on a maxi-scooter with zero flats on many sets of tires. Returning to their site, I note specific separate formulations for bicycles vs. moped/electro bike applications. I will definitely ride with this product, be it tube or tubeless.

www.ride-on.com

Be safe, Larry
 
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I've been looking at pedal bikes, and it's such a shame that there are no city or hybrid bikes that allow you to use balloon tires. Especially if you go high end with Schwalbe G-Ones, there is little to no weight penalty. So many people still mistakenly believe thinner is faster.

My best hope is that as balloon tires on ebikes become prevalent, it will feed back into pedal bikes.

Was looking at the Priority Continuum Onyx, which would be perfect IMO if it had wider tire clearance.
 
I've been looking at pedal bikes, and it's such a shame that there are no city or hybrid bikes that allow you to use balloon tires. Especially if you go high end with Schwalbe G-Ones, there is little to no weight penalty. So many people still mistakenly believe thinner is faster.

My best hope is that as balloon tires on ebikes become prevalent, it will feed back into pedal bikes.

Was looking at the Priority Continuum Onyx, which would be perfect IMO if it had wider tire clearance.
How about their new pinion drive bike, the 600, with 47mm 650B tires? https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/the600

That super-wide range pinion drive with a added hub motor might be pretty sweet.

My current ebike is a Priority Eight, and the tire size / clearance has been less than I'd like - 700x35 is all it'll do, with the fenders - 38mm without.
 
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Schwalbe 28x2" Energizer went on... just barely... with some spoke retensioning and removing the rear fender. I think the fenders will go back on when I bend in the metal clips that hold the fenders to their frame. They're working well so far!
 
How about their new pinion drive bike, the 600, with 47mm 650B tires? https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/the600

That super-wide range pinion drive with a added hub motor might be pretty sweet.

My current ebike is a Priority Eight, and the tire size / clearance has been less than I'd like - 700x35 is all it'll do, with the fenders - 38mm without.

It's an extra grand for something I don't need, a fancy transmission with wide gearing range.

Also, as a tall guy, I'm not sure that 650B is a better choice. Bigger tire means higher top speed, more air volume, easier to clear objects.

That said, I hadn't noticed the higher clearance on that model, thanks. Makes me wonder - do you think they now realize that wider tires are uniformly better? Or do they think the pinion will extend the use of the bike to MTB applications, so they put on wider tires?

If I could buy it used and the depreciation thereafter was modest, I'd consider it.
 
Seems my rear tire needs replaced every 1000mi whether it was the stock Kenda or the the marathon I just changed at the 2000mi. mark.
I tried to put on a 700/57,( 29"/2.125"). Rubbed the stay. 28 x 2,00 is the most to fit.
 
Seems my rear tire needs replaced every 1000mi whether it was the stock Kenda or the the marathon I just changed at the 2000mi. mark.
I tried to put on a 700/57,( 29"/2.125"). Rubbed the stay. 28 x 2,00 is the most to fit.
Interesting. What pressure are you running your tires at? I'm still on my original stock Kenda's at > 2600 miles. Rear tire looks like it'll be good for at least 4-5K, front should go well over 10K miles based on current wear. I did convert to tubeless, but I don't see that having a significant impact on treadwear. I do run my tires at 65 psi fwiw.
 
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