There's advantages and disadvantages either way. Look at the spoke angles into the nipples on 2x and 3x lacing with a hub this large. And then there's spoke elbow/hub stress. That's why Orbea and many wheel builders that specialize in e-bike wheel building prefer 1x. Grin Technologies is one.
Same question since you completed your build. What length spokes did you use. Or, rather, where did you get the official dimensions of the Mahle x35+ hub with which to calculate spoke length?
FarSports will give you all the needed rim dimensions. I had them build my 45mm Kaze front wheel complete using a Carbon Ti hub, so I don't know what the spoke lengths were that they used. My rear rim is a Kaze 58mm. Mahle refused to give me the dimensions on their X35 hub, (It's a huge secret apparently) so I had to take those measurements myself. Orbea was of little (Actually zero) help as well. The total length of the hub is 135mm. The gear side is right at 55mm while the non-gear side is 35mm. The hub diameter is 107.5mm on both the drive and non-drive sides. I used Sapim "Strong" spokes with 14mm locking aluminum Polyax nipples, and retained the factory 1X lacing pattern. In my case the 58mm Kaze internal rim diameter is 517mm, and the rim thickness is 3.5mm. Using the Sapim spoke calculator the recommended spoke length was 215.5mm on the non-gear side, and 213.5mm on the gear side. I selected 216 & 214mm spokes based on my calculations, and it worked out well.
Are you on X35 or X35+ hub? The latter has redesigned flange from cylindral to wavy and thus possibly different flange height.
If you're only buying bare rims from Farsports, you should deal with them direct instead of through Wheelsfar. Wheelsfar is their website for prebuilt wheels, not custom orders. I can give you my contact's email if you want, she was very helpful before, during, and after my wheel production. My hubs are the original X35, not the newer plus which are only on the 2021 and newer models. I purchased both a Park Tool wheel truing stand and spoke tension gauge from Amazon.
Thanks for your concern. I'm using an extended expander, so there's plenty of support for the stem.Hi again, judging from the pictures Steven I would recommend cutting your fork to avoid the spacers above the stem. The expander plug in the fork is there to prevent fork from getting squished from the clamping of the stem (so it is recommended not to use spacers above it to make sure there is support in the right place). You could also invest in a longer expander plug, 50-70mm.
Just as a precaution, you're probably fine
Cc an you please post pics of thee wheels very interestedReally nice work there André!
I'm currently looking in to this as well as I'm building a dream bike for my girlfriend who's a leg amputee. Do you have the weight of the original vs Parcours? Or possibly a naked weight of just the motor? Going full weight-weenie here but hey, on an e-bike it actually makes a bit more sense, right
I have a Cannondale Super Six Neo and looking to get upgraded wheels
Your least expensive option will be to contact Farsports and have them build you a complete front wheel and supply you with a rear rim only that you would take to your LBS or wheel builder and have them build with new spokes and the hub motor from your stock rear wheel. The other 2 options (More expensive) are either Nox or Parcours wheels, but again the rear would be just the rim that you'd have someone build with your stock rear wheel's hub motor.I have a Cannondale Super Six Neo and looking to get upgraded wheels
Hi,
Looks good. Forgot about the factory hub&disc being 6 bolt instead of center lock. Not going tubeless?
