Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Yep, you got it!
It's a little strange, your bike, being the carbon frame and fork is road boost front and rear, the Neo 5 that uses the same fork as you is 12x110 up front and 12x142 in the back, a mixed bag!
It's a little strange, your bike, being the carbon frame and fork is road boost front and rear, the Neo 5 that uses the same fork as you is 12x110 up front and 12x142 in the back, a mixed bag!
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
The rear axle is aways longer, even if the hub is the same width, as the axle has to pass through the cassette too.
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Not what I was saying, I was pointing out the fact that the Neo 5 has non boost rear hub spacing and road boost up front. Correct, a thru axle for a 142 hub spacing comes out to 150mm or something like that, not to do with the cassette, but is longer due to the dropouts on the frame. The width of the cassette is on the freehub body which is included in the measurement of the hubspacing.
warney
New Member
Ohh wow how crazy!!! No wonder Cannondale Aus had to call me back and didn't know!
Truth be told I would have preferred the 142! So much easier to buy new wheels
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Outside of handbuilt stuff check out DT Swiss, they've got some pre built wheels in the road boost spec.
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Yep, went with the 800 lumen Bosch model, I did the lights/rack and Kiox all in one go and it required sticking a hand grenade where the battery is...
Yes it's a HUGE amount of work. Not to terribly complicated if you know what you're doing but it's lengthy to say the least. Don't forget to update the software after install as your bike might not let you turn the lights on in the programming.
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Are you sure that the new Bosch Performance Speed motor will support that light? I know that Bosch only lets you allocate a certain amount of power to lights and in some cases it's not enough for the super bright headlights, hence why I went with the 800 lum light.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
Best not to chain yourself to the limitations of the Bosch Motor. Save your Bosch batteries for go power rather than burning up their electrons generating light. Simple installation too.
I use a rechargeable 1000 lumen light with a 50 mwh battery reserve from Knog PWR 1000) on my Cannondale topstone Neo Carbon 3 and their PWR 2000,2000 lumen light with a 10,000 mWh reserve on my Riese & Muller Mountain Both lights will recharge your phone with a USB cable that comes with.
www.probikekit.com
I use a rechargeable 1000 lumen light with a 50 mwh battery reserve from Knog PWR 1000) on my Cannondale topstone Neo Carbon 3 and their PWR 2000,2000 lumen light with a 10,000 mWh reserve on my Riese & Muller Mountain Both lights will recharge your phone with a USB cable that comes with.
Pro Bike Kit (USA)
www.probikekit.com
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
Best not to chain yourself to the limitations of the Bosch Motor. Save your Bosch batteries for go power rather than burning up their electrons generating light. Simple installation too.
I use a rechargeable 1000 lumen light with a 50 mwh battery reserve from Knog PWR 1000) on my Cannondale topstone Neo Carbon 3 and their PWR 2000,2000 lumen light with a 10,000 mWh reserve on my Riese & Muller Mountain Both lights will recharge your phone with a USB cable that comes with.
Pro Bike Kit (USA)
Powering the lights doesn't do anything to the range, Bosch keeps a portion of the battery just for lights to power them after there isn't enough juice left for assist.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
Powering lights absolutely decreases range.
The only variable is the amount of loss which varies with brightness and corresponding wattage consumed by the lights.
Low powered lights=minimal range loss...higher powered light=greater range loss.
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
I've been thinking of going back to a drop bar setup for a while and I finally did it a couple of days ago, after I received my new Ritchey WCS Venturemax handlebar. I've only done one 45km ride, but so far I'm very happy with the new setup.
The Ritchey bar had a flat top to rest my palms on and the drop reach is shallow enough that I'm able to comfortably drive in the drop position for extended periods of time. This is something I can't do on my regular road bike.
The Ritchey bar had a flat top to rest my palms on and the drop reach is shallow enough that I'm able to comfortably drive in the drop position for extended periods of time. This is something I can't do on my regular road bike.
Brendon@OEB
Well-Known Member
So I guess the Bosch service reps that do the training don't know their own product?
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
You are conflating two different battery issues.
One is the 10% reserve for shifting in lights, where the motor shuts off at 10% so you can get home safely and your Rohloff E14, DI2 or other electric shifter will keep working and the lights still work (important in the dark).
The other is a simple question of how far you can travel before you reach that 10% threshold, which will happen sooner if you have electron hungry lighting tapped into your main battery, running during your ride. Obviously there are other factors that have greater impact on range, like assist level, topgraphy, wind, rider weight, etc.
My point is, don't fool yourself, very bright lights that consume significant battery wattage on an ebike, reduce available range when in use.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Richard,
It is not that I want to have a dispute with you. My experience gained from my distant rides on both Vado and Vado SL tells me that the battery power draw for the daylight running lights is just symbolic. This is even true for the Vado SL with its 320 Wh battery. When I stop for taking a rest, I even do not switch any of my bikes off and let the lights operate. Note: I have very precise tools to measure the power draw for my e-bikes and can prove it numerically.
(The Supernova M99 Pro only draws a lot of power at night. The Lezyne on my Vado SL is very economic at any time).
It is not that I want to have a dispute with you. My experience gained from my distant rides on both Vado and Vado SL tells me that the battery power draw for the daylight running lights is just symbolic. This is even true for the Vado SL with its 320 Wh battery. When I stop for taking a rest, I even do not switch any of my bikes off and let the lights operate. Note: I have very precise tools to measure the power draw for my e-bikes and can prove it numerically.
(The Supernova M99 Pro only draws a lot of power at night. The Lezyne on my Vado SL is very economic at any time).
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