Break sensor.

RensM

New Member
Region
New Zealand
All,

I obtained a eBike which the previous owner tried to repair by replacing the controller in a very messy way.
(assuming all wire colours have the same function in both controllers was his biggest error)

Now I am making good progress. Identified all wires to function on the frame and sensors.
Established the bike and old controller used a Tq sensor for PAS, the replacement uses the standard magnetic senor, (so got a new senor coming in)

Now the replacement sensor he got is a KT series. when it comes to the break sensors can anyone confirm whether this input on the KT is ground seeking or power seeking?
As the frame currently is wired for power seeking (as in when the brakes are pressed the contact put the positive voltage from the ignition circuit on the break signal wire).

Cheers
 
You are trying to get a bike to run using a new KT controller? You can give the controller model number and current rating. That will help. Also helps to know details on the old bike. If it used a torque sensor on the pedals, must have been a nice bike. You will be using a new KT display too?

In any case, if you look at KT diagrams, most of their new controllers come with connectors for three-wire brakes (power, brake, ground), but they are still low level brakes. It will say "Brake Input: Low Level" right on the controller label. The motor is inhibited when the brake and ground pins are connected by the brake switch.

They provide the power just in case your brake lever is a Hall sensor chip, which runs on 5 volt power. Most cheap brake levers are just contact switches. I remove the power wire when I wire up brakes to a KT controller. We're talking about KT controllers with the rats nest of connectors, not the water proof models.

KT_brake.jpg
 
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The previous owner purchased the new KT controller, as well which is a KT36/48ZSWR-ff01, 15+/- 1 A. (no documentation of the controller was forwarded to me by the previous owner)
The bike is an Ezee knock-off. (according to the Ezee agent in NZ) and definitely has issues.
The old controller is/was G3M20211-1592-16 and whether that gave first (as there was full 36v to the throttle sensor) or the motor blue hall sensor I don't know. But once the hall sensor is replaced, i'll be opening the motor this or next weekend depending on when the hall sensor arrives. which should make the motor run smoothly again.
Got a new display on order but will only hook that up once indeed the wheel runs smoothly.

It is a nice project for little investment, 130 NZD for the bike and parts the owner had, and now about 50 for parts on order.
 
At my first job that paid with a check, I used to blow the whistle for break when I sensed the catering truck drive onto the lot. then 30 minutes later I blew the whistle for everybody to start their machines again.
 
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