Bafang Ultra "Smooth" tune by Mike at Frey

[Pharroh]

I initially had trouble getting the right USB driver for the app to work with the cable I had, and some others have reported similar results. You can certainly try, but just be aware there are potentially unique windows drivers that may be required...

My advise as this is what I did I have an OLD Panasonic T8 toughbook Laptop running windows 7 pro and everything works perfectly .

Its setup up for programing my bikes and stays in the garage just for that purpose and surf internet as well if i choose to .

 

[Pharroh]

Maybe if you let your location be known, somebody nearby could be a real hero and lend you a hand?

Before that though, maybe a question. Has anyone successfully enabled the "start from 0" on an M620 that was received disabled? Not sure I've read about anyone doing this - yet. I'm 99% sure it can be done, but would feel much better if somebody (or sombodies) reported they had done it successfully. -Al

yes I have done it with my M620 nd my BBSHD's because at a stop light I use the throttle to get me going before i even start peddling

 

[Pharroh]

Update 2:

My ride with Ray the other day was mainly very plain as he doesn't like to get jiggy anymore. Did my first ride with the latest tune and hit the more tech sections of the hood. For these sections modes 1/2 are key because they are what I consider to be tight technical terrain consisting of roots, rocks and tight turns and transitions. Quite frankly I thought I was done for the most part with this type of terrain but the Z1 is a very confidence inspiring bike and I have found that if I am willing to commit to a feature that has foiled me in the past on my DIY XC oriented bikes it will support my effort with pretty good chances of success. Knock on wood.

The previous tune that was cutting out at low speed at unfortunately crux points as I said is gone now. Another aspect that was perhaps part of that was that I had the power set to cut off immediately with 0 overrun and sometimes it was like putting the brakes on to just stop pedaling for say a matter of crank timing to keep from pedal strikes. There is a feature that I believe Bosch has that allows for a bit of overrun in a high torque situation and now this tune does just that I am finding. Not a huge amount but a slight bit that allows for a bit of "freewheeling" instead of a stall if that makes sense. Thing is you have to be ready for it and use it to your advantage which didn't take but one ride to get used to. Otherwise at different speeds it really isn't a factor but does aid a bit in shifting after letting off to do so.

OK, update on my programming progress to date. I had mentioned that my friend Ray brought his bike by a few weeks ago and I put the tune I had going at that time on to replace the stock tune from Luna that came with the Z1. I was still experiencing some cut out at low speed that could be overcome by a slight blip of the throttle but was a PITA frankly. Well Ray, who is in his 70's, had a stall at a bad moment and ended up on his side so he wanted no more of that.

Inspired by this I set out to get rid of the glitch by revisiting all the info I had bookmarked and going line by line down my reads. As usual I didn't really make much of a record of what I did, ADD I'm afraid, but it involved plugging and unplugging, test riding etc.. I even downloaded the Frey Smooth Tune in full again just to revisit it but it didn't float my boat any more than it did when I first tried it. I did re-read all the salient points though and in combination with the Biktrix ones I think I now have a much better knowledge of how it all fits together? But don't ask me what ha ha ha.

The continuous get feature I found out I missed the first time around as it is described in the Frey tune area. However in the end it really doesn't mean alot other than for setting the base value which seems to be pretty consistent and the key figure I think for a 200 lbish rider is like 750. I have mine set at that and it feels just about right however Ray is like 25lbs. lighter than me so I set his to 740. Anyway we went for a nice 12 mile loop consisting of sun, sand and different gravel grades with ups downs and arounds and both of us came back satisfied with our results. No more low speed cutout, consistent torque ramping, good power with no buffering in all 5 modes and smooth throttle response from a standstill and while riding.

As far as I am concerned, as well as Ray is, that we will stick with this tune now unless something shows up that didn't today because it works just as we want. More psi on the pedals equals more power from the motor. At speed keeping a consistent pressure on the pedals nets a consistent speed with no wobbling. Modes 1/2 have decent power but not too much. No run on at all but not a super abrupt stop after letting off either. So really happy with the UART programming experience overall but it had its moments like getting to a windows computer at the start.

So if your setting is as you say they are and that good please post the( .el ) file so I can program mine the same as yours is I have been looking for something like this for a while now .

 

[JuanDiego]

"Bike had second magnet added to rear wheel for speed sensor! This greatly improves speedo responsiveness as well as assist to remove some lag in PAS start up procedure.
Make sure to change SpdMeter Signal from 1 to 2 to get correct speedo reading."

I thought about doing this some time ago as I have a spare magnet... But then was sidetracked and forgot all about it.
Thanks for the reminder!

You can only change the SpdMeter signal using the programming table? Or can you do it from the console? Tks

"Bike had second magnet added to rear wheel for speed sensor! This greatly improves speedo responsiveness as well as assist to remove some lag in PAS start up procedure.
Make sure to change SpdMeter Signal from 1 to 2 to get correct speedo reading."

I thought about doing this some time ago as I have a spare magnet... But then was sidetracked and forgot all about it.
Thanks for the reminder!

 

[Gionnirocket]

You can only change the SpdMeter signal using the programming table? Or can you do it from the console? Tks

Has to be changed using the programming table.
That said... Don't bother as further discussion elsewhere concluded no improvement

 

[milo12]

Where can I download the Frey tuning file and correct program? I have the cable from Luna.

 

[tomjasz]

Where can I download the Frey tuning file and correct program? I have the cable from Luna.

In this thread?

Google is your best friend.
frey bafang settings

Bafang Ultra Review. Most powerful Mid-Drive PAS motor just got better

The Bafand Ultra is here. You might not know it by looking at it, but this 48V mid-drive is packing 1,500W peak of power at 160Nm of torque, more than any other PAS e-bike motor on the market. Here we look at it in detail.

frey-bafang.patransformers.com

 

[milo12]

Thanks, I should have mentioned I already tried that page and the download link is dead. Can someone post the files so they are archived here?

 

[AHicks]

Thanks, I should have mentioned I already tried that page and the download link is dead. Can someone post the files so they are archived here?

I just downloaded them, the link works. Pages have been copied and pasted to the first post here for anyone having a tough time. When doing my own, I just printed the pages off and changed the values manually, one at a time. Took maybe 20 minutes tops... -Al

 

[Taylor57]

Thanks, I should have mentioned I already tried that page and the download link is dead. Can someone post the files so they are archived here?

Try this. Giel is very helpful.

Bafang Programming - Learn how to improve your Bafang mid-drive ebike - Edrivenet

Learn how to improve your Bafang mid-drive ebike. Reprogramming your Bafang mid-drive system can improve the usability and performance of your ebike a lot.

edrivenet.com

 

[milo12]

I just downloaded them, the link works. Pages have been copied and pasted to the first post here for anyone having a tough time. When doing my own, I just printed the pages off and changed the values manually, one at a time. Took maybe 20 minutes tops... -Al

I still can not get the download link to work I am clicking where it says "Bafang Ultra programming suite". http://www.frey.bike/software/FreyC...63.0.0.38403e5fGrIR7A&file=FreyConfigTool.zip

Am I clicking the wrong link?

 

[JRA]

I just went through my bookmarks from my time programming my M620 and it appears that both the Frey and Biketrix site that used to host the config tool you need are not displaying them anymore? Dug a bit on Google and found this site that has a different access link to the config tool but you need to unzip it: https://everyamp.com/bafang-ultra-m620-programming/ There also appears to be some good info on there as far as where to look for performance aspects of the motor?

Probably another way around it but all I got........good luck because it really does help the motor to be tuned to your style of riding.

 

[milo12]

I just went through my bookmarks from my time programming my M620 and it appears that both the Frey and Biketrix site that used to host the config tool you need are not displaying them anymore? Dug a bit on Google and found this site that has a different access link to the config tool but you need to unzip it: https://everyamp.com/bafang-ultra-m620-programming/ There also appears to be some good info on there as far as where to look for performance aspects of the motor?

Probably another way around it but all I got........good luck because it really does help the motor to be tuned to your style of riding.

Got it, Thanks.

 

[ProphetZarquon]

Has to be changed using the programming table.
That said... Don't bother as further discussion elsewhere concluded no improvement

Changing the number of magnets used for the speedo would not notably affect startup at all, once start from zero MPH is enabled... ?

Even on bikes with start from zero inhibited, it could only help slightly (half circumference instead of full wheel)?

My main reason for wanting a second magnet, is just as a redundancy; Not actually configured for two, just carrying a spare!

 

[AHicks]

Not that I think carrying an extra magnet is a terrible idea, but how many times have you lost one?

I think that controller is monitoring the bike's speed for way more than just the throttle. It's basing a lot of it's PAS related calls to how fast the bike is moving for instance....

 

[Gionnirocket]

And then there’s the Max Speed cut off

 

[ProphetZarquon]

Not that I think carrying an extra magnet is a terrible idea, but how many times have you lost one?

I think that controller is monitoring the bike's speed for way more than just the throttle. It's basing a lot of it's PAS related calls to how fast the bike is moving for instance....

Start-from-zero also applies to pedal assist, not just throttle... but yeah, the speedo data is used for a lot more than just preventing accidental starts at 0.

In the Torque tab (on adjustable, UART controllers) the speedo data is used to determine which of the pedal assist's Spd0\20\40\60\80\100 ranges you're running in.

Even so, 2 or more magnets doesn't seem to help the speedo's accuracy much at all; just reduces delay getting first reading, slightly...

Since I'd need a PC (or an Eggrider) to adjust the number of magnets used, switching from 2 magnets to 1, would not be trivially easy if I lost one on a trail.

I seem to replace a spoke every month or two; just had to replace one on the AM1000 (v5). I would not want to lose the spoke with the magnet, with no spare on hand!

Losing the speedo magnet is a relatively minor worry, but an exceedingly easy problem to prevent; spares magnets are cheap & virtually insignificant to carry - potentially even handy for other uses?

On the subject of tuning, I found it essential to fine-tune the settings under each Spd range in the Torque tab: Prior to doing that, harder pedaling was needed, around 12 & 18 MPH.

So, two questions:

(We're on 40-tooth chainring, 42-to-11-tooth cassette) Could someone with a drastically different gearset, report which values work best for them?

For people with an m620 which doesn't let you fine-tune the controller, does the pedal assist's torque sensing feel smooth & proportionate to your pedal effort? Either way, what gearset are you using?

 

[AHicks]

So, two questions:

(We're on 40-tooth chainring, 42-to-11-tooth cassette) Could someone with a drastically different gearset, report which values work best for them?

For people with an m620 which doesn't let you fine-tune the controller, does the pedal assist's torque sensing feel smooth & proportionate to your pedal effort? Either way, what gearset are you using?

Curious to hear if Bafang had done a major change to their OEM tune after locking it down with the CANbus, I asked a similar question a while back. While I didn't get a LOT of replies, it sure sounded like Bafang went with the same tune the earlier UART based motors came with, which wasn't very good at all, especially considering the way they left the torque sensing pretty much turned off (as compared to the Smooth tune).

I'm running a 49t, primarily to avoid use of the 11t, while encouraging the use of the larger gears. FWIW

Regarding the occasional broken rear spoke, even with my 300lb butt, that would be a new issue here. I've been down that road with a different bike. After a lot of screwing around, I ended up teaching myself how to lace a wheel. I replaced all of the spokes at once using a quality spoke, and reusing the original rim and hub to end the problem. That knowledge in hand, I rebuilt the fatty set up my Ultra based bike came with, converting it to 27.5 using new spokes and 35mm wide rims. THAT setup, with about 1000 miles on it now, has been trouble free. If I learned one thing through all that, it would be regarding how critical spoke tension is. Too loose, or too tight, and there's issues. Knowing what I know now, I would insist on the use of a tension meter. -Al

 

[Ed B]

On my WW UC my throttle is 1100 watts. When ever I hit the throttle it is 100% on for short distances my use. The throttle has priority over my PAS.

This may be a bit off topic, but I'm trying to understand what the throttle on my new Bafang M620 is doing (on a Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra Duo) and whether it can be improved with programming. My experience is that during a ride I can use the throttle for about 5 to 8 minutes and get a response (regardless of how hard I'm pedaling or what PAS level I'm in). But after that I dont get much of a response and the bike slows down. (Biktrix allows the controller to be unlimited... so I have the bike in MPH and limited at 55 mph - a speed I'm never going to reach). At PAS 5 I can get up to 26 - 28mph with a lot of effort, but can get to 33-34mph for brief periods with the throttle. However as indicated, the throttle assist seems to only last a few minutes. I have the controller display set to battery % vs voltage but am wondering whether this could be due to the voltage dropping.

Has anyone else experienced this limitation. Is this a heat protection or other built in voltage protection issue? Or is there a programming setting that could over-ride this limitation? My goal is short 5-6 mile rides at top speeds.

 

[AHicks]

There is a thermal sensor buried in the windings, and it IS designed to lower the power to the motor when it reaches a certain temperature.

To be of much more help on this, it would be important to know what you were using for a throttle setting during those 5 to 8 minutes preceding the slow down.

2 more points. 1st, you can easily monitor the load on the motor by simply keeping an eye on the watt meter. It's not hard to imagine the internal heat build up with a constant over 1000w draw for instance.....

2nd, on some bikes, if the throttle is engaged while you are pedaling, the throttle is more of an on/off switch than a throttle. To get the throttle actually modulating power/working as designed, you have to stop pedaling for a second, then engage the throttle.