Lock the crank to lube chain - tool

kahn

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
northWET washington
I know a while back someone posted about a small tool that fits the bolt holes so that you can move the crank and the chain ring and chain will move. When the crank hits the rubber coated tool, the chain will move allowing lubricating.

Hard to Google when you really can't come up with a proper term.
 
More detail as to what the tool is for, please?
From the minimal info provided, is this a tool that goes into the rear axle when the rear wheel is removed, with a small pulley on it to hold the chain? If so check out this Park Tool Dummy Hub tool.

 
I know a while back someone posted about a small tool that fits the bolt holes so that you can move the crank and the chain ring and chain will move. When the crank hits the rubber coated tool, the chain will move allowing lubricating.

Hard to Google when you really can't come up with a proper term.

Save your self a few $$ and just place a 5mm hex key wrapped with a bit of tape into one of the crank bolt holes and have at her. 👍

IMG_20210724_2003263.jpg

For quicky chain cleans I used to use the Park device that @Alaskan referred to but found it much easier to simply slip the axle through the plastic wheel that came with the dummy hub.

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strange, i never even imagined a need for this. i just apply a drop to each visible roller on the bottom, turn the crank forward (bike in stand or lifting rear wheel), repeat 4 or 5 times until all rollers/links are lubed. on my non-e-bike i do the same but going backwards, no need to lift the wheel.

is there some reason not to lube it going forward? i mean... it's about to go forward anyway.
 
I used to do the hex key in the chainring bolt method but stopped after several people, including a specialized lbs tech, suggested that it might not be good to turn the motor backwards. Now I do what Mschwett describes, only I squirt a lot of rock n roll gold or red on, as per their directions, to flush out and lube at the same time.
 
I used to do the hex key in the chainring bolt method but stopped after several people, including a specialized lbs tech, suggested that it might not be good to turn the motor backwards. Now I do what Mschwett describes, only I squirt a lot of rock n roll gold or red on, as per their directions, to flush out and lube at the same time.

Hey Cal - I've always wondered about turning the motor backwards. I do think it makes servicing the chain a lot easier than propping up the back wheel. What does 'suggested that it might not be good'? Can you expand or offer any other comments from your Spec LBS? Anyone else heard an official comment on this?
 
Hey Cal - I've always wondered about turning the motor backwards. I do think it makes servicing the chain a lot easier than propping up the back wheel. What does 'suggested that it might not be good'? Can you expand or offer any other comments from your Spec LBS? Anyone else heard an official comment on this?
If you want an answer to that question from the Bosch North America team, ask it over on the Bosch Brand Forum. It may take a while for someone to respond but that is your best shot at getting a definitive anwer.
 
Hey Cal - I've always wondered about turning the motor backwards. I do think it makes servicing the chain a lot easier than propping up the back wheel. What does 'suggested that it might not be good'? Can you expand or offer any other comments from your Spec LBS? Anyone else heard an official
I don’t really have any more information. I asked my local tech about any reason to avoid turning the motor backwards for chain lubing and he said he had the same question and decided not to do that as a precaution. Without taking a close look at how the clutch, internal gears and motor interact, I don’t know if it could be a problem or not. Because it’s so easy for me to lift my bike onto the stand and turn the cranks forward, I decided to play it safe and skip the hex key in the chainring trick.
 
All these devices and tricks are ways to comply with the instructions on chain cleaning devices that clearly say turn the chain backwards. All of these chain cleaners do a good, not great job of cleaning the chain. They really don't penetrate deeply into the inner recesses of the chain, especially between the pins and the rollers where it really matters.

An ultrasonic parts cleaner does a far more thorough job, leaving the chain totally clean, down to the bones (or pins). It also does a thorough job on the cassette which should really be cleaned when the chain is cleaned. Also the chain ring can be cleaned when the chain has been removed to place it in the ultrasonic unit.

Then you have completely cleaned drive train parts on which to apply fresh lube and not mixing it in right away with parts that have not been properly cleaned. It makes a difference in smoothness and longevity.

This is the cleaner I use

 
All these devices and tricks are ways to comply with the instructions on chain cleaning devices that clearly say turn the chain backwards. All of these chain cleaners do a good, not great job of cleaning the chain. They really don't penetrate deeply into the inner recesses of the chain, especially between the pins and the rollers where it really matters.

An ultrasonic parts cleaner does a far more thorough job, leaving the chain totally clean, down to the bones (or pins). It also does a thorough job on the cassette which should really be cleaned when the chain is cleaned. Also the chain ring can be cleaned when the chain has been removed to place it in the ultrasonic unit.

Then you have completely cleaned drive train parts on which to apply fresh lube and not mixing it in right away with parts that have not been properly cleaned. It makes a difference in smoothness and longevity.

This is the cleaner I use

FWIW, the Park Tools chain cleaner is designed to be used with chain turning in either direction. I prop my Vado Sl up on a rear wheel stand and move it forward.

I also use Rock&Roll which seems to help with keeping the drive chain clean. I can go several dusty gravel rides between real cleaning.
 
As noted above, a hex wrench in your chainring bolt does the same job for $0 added cost, since you surely have one in that size already. As a bike stand, I use two hockey pucks under the kickstand and that lets me pedal forward, but I have the luxury of a 2-legged kickstand.

If rolling the bike backwards hurts the motor thats on the motor, not the rider. I can't imagine that actually being a thing though.

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I like to do my chain lubrication out at a city park as its such a simple job and I'd rather do it outdoors than penned up in a hot garage. I am not the guy who uses 'lasers' to zap the chain clean ,and then sends it to the Vatican to get blessed by the Pope. I use an old towel and squirt Rock and Roll onto the chain links with that towel under the squirtees. Then I wipe. Then I move to the next segment of chain. 10 relaxed minutes later I am done. The chain is lubed and silent for a couple more weeks of daily riding.

Despite this shockingly care-free methodology, my chains last for roughly 3000 miles. So I could wash the thing in holy water and sing it a lullaby... and get ... 3200 miles? Screw that. Its just a chain.
 
FWIW, the Park Tools chain cleaner is designed to be used with chain turning in either direction. I prop my Vado Sl up on a rear wheel stand and move it forward.

I also use Rock&Roll which seems to help with keeping the drive chain clean. I can go several dusty gravel rides between real cleaning.

The new park tool chain cleaner 5.3 is definitely an improvement with the handle able to be mounted on the other side so that is works pedaling forward. 5.2 was unidirectional and has been discontinued.
 
As noted above, a hex wrench in your chainring bolt does the same job for $0 added cost, since you surely have one in that size already. As a bike stand, I use two hockey pucks under the kickstand and that lets me pedal forward, but I have the luxury of a 2-legged kickstand.

If rolling the bike backwards hurts the motor thats on the motor, not the rider. I can't imagine that actually being a thing though.

View attachment 128332

I like to do my chain lubrication out at a city park as its such a simple job and I'd rather do it outdoors than penned up in a hot garage. I am not the guy who uses 'lasers' to zap the chain clean ,and then sends it to the Vatican to get blessed by the Pope. I use an old towel and squirt Rock and Roll onto the chain links with that towel under the squirtees. Then I wipe. Then I move to the next segment of chain. 10 relaxed minutes later I am done. The chain is lubed and silent for a couple more weeks of daily riding.

Despite this shockingly care-free methodology, my chains last for roughly 3000 miles. So I could wash the thing in holy water and sing it a lullaby... and get ... 3200 miles? Screw that. Its just a chain.
Such a practical approach and avoids the postage to/from the Vatican! ;)
 
Such a practical approach and avoids the postage to/from the Vatican! ;)
Okay, why do I think that if the chain on e-bikes or Specialized e-bike were not meant to be moved backward there would be a warning in the manual that states: "Do not on potential pain of death or severe injury to yourself or your bike, rotate the chain backward!!!"
 
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