Lock the crank to lube chain - tool

[Calcoaster]

Okay, why do I think that if the chain on e-bikes or Specialized e-bike were not meant to be moved backward there would be a warning in the manual that states: "Do not on potential pain of death or severe injury to yourself or your bike, rotate the chain backward!!!"

Maybe there is no warning not to rotate the cranks and chain backwards because you can’t rotate the cranks and chain backwards. At least not without jamming a wrench into them or using a zip tie to hold them together. Or maybe there’s no warning because there’s no problem if you do it. Rather than guess, I decided to only rotate them forward.

 

[rochrunner]

I doubt that there could be an issue with turning the motor itself backwards since there's really not that much that can go wrong there AFAIK. However, if there are reduction gears between the motor and the chainwheel, what you are doing is driving that gear train backwards and possibly putting a strain on it if it's not designed for those types of forces. That said, the few revolutions necessary on occasion to clean and lube the chain are probably not doing any lasting damage.

 

[BioWheel]

Okay, why do I think that if the chain on e-bikes or Specialized e-bike were not meant to be moved backward there would be a warning in the manual that states: "Do not on potential pain of death or severe injury to yourself or your bike, rotate the chain backward!!!"

Well, if that's in the manual I don't feel so bad given the guy at the Specialized LBS wasn't sure.

 

[m@Robertson]

Isn't not rotating the crankarms as the bike travels down the road the same mech operation as rotating the crankarms backward? Just a faster version of the same mechanical operation occurring inside the motor. Its got a clutch in there and I'm sure it works just fine either way.

 

[DaveMatthews]

I use the Park Tool 5.3 and Squirt lube.
To be honest I've only used the tool once and cleaned the chain within an inch of its life.
Then two coats of Squirt.
After 3 months I've only needed to wipe the chain/cassette a couple of times and applied more Squirt twice.
The chain has remained very clean and quiet.

 

[DaveMatthews]

I use the Park Tool 5.3 and Squirt lube.
To be honest I've only used the tool once and cleaned the chain within an inch of its life.
Then two coats of Squirt.
After 3 months I've only needed to wipe the chain/cassette a couple of times and applied more Squirt twice.
The chain has remained very clean and quiet.

Wow... time flies.
I did the original clean in Jan 29/2022. Six months later it's still good after 800kms.
I should probably wipe/re-apply tomorrow.

 

[mschwett]

Isn't not rotating the crankarms as the bike travels down the road the same mech operation as rotating the crankarms backward? Just a faster version of the same mechanical operation occurring inside the motor. Its got a clutch in there and I'm sure it works just fine either way.

i don’t think so? rolling down the road without pedaling, chain, pedals, crank, motor … none are moving. i find it hard to believe that turning the input shaft backwards would harm anything, but there’s no way to create that big of a speed differential at the motor in normal use without jamming the two parts together mechanically.

if you’re riding fast under load at full power i believe the chainring is going faster than the input shaft / crank … but i could see how that might create a different load on the motor and gearing (which it’s designed for) than the crank going backwards with the clutch disengaged.

 

[BioWheel]

Interesting this thread from a simple tool to motor failure.
1st Brose motor on my Bulls failed under 500 miles. It could have been from from rotating It backwards. When lubricating the chain

On 2nd motor has probably 3000+ miles on it now, 5 chain replacement change cassette once. I lube the drivetrain now with the bike flipped and running it through the gears.
Bathing the chain in holy oil is expensive.
Have to replace missing link 300-500 miles or so.
I carry the gold plated ones in case my chain fails, more easier to install ( visibility wise) when I'm out in the field.
In fact I'm gonna do the ritual now. Remove chain, wash and holy oil bath. Install and run the gears.
I find it very therapeutic.

Hey Rome - Interesting. I've got 3k on my SL4 and on my 3rd chain. Original cassette. I like the gold plated idea for quick find of the link. Questions - Did you replace your cassette for a specific reason like a noise or just as precaution? And - why did you have to replace missing link? I've had original 'master' link on my chains and have read they don't wear out.

bio

 

[Marcela]

Careful with the gold plated master links. I did that on either the Vado or Como so I could see it easier. Come to find out it wasn't strong enough and would stretch more than the chain, noticeably.

 

[Alaskan]

Chains do not "stretch" they wear from contact and friction. The parts under the most strain are the pins and rollers where each link joins the next. As the pins and rollers loose material from this friction the distance between them grows. That slop over time will cause excessive wear to the chain ring and the cogs on the cassette. The smaller cogs will wear faster as they have fewer teeth holding the chain under strain. We clean our chains to eliminate or reduce the grit which will accelerate the wear. Using a lube that does not attract abrasive grit will result in longer chain life before the growing distance between the rollers results in destruction of the gearing.

 

[JRA]

I am also in the camp of never introducing any type of cleaning solvent to my bike chains and instead use a lube that is wax based and has proven itself of the last 30ish years I have used it on mine, the families and friends bikes to not attract dirt/grime to begin with. Those products are out there but my preferred brand is T9 Boeshield in aerosol. Estimated cost less than $15/yr.

Really don't understand all the fuss over this subject. As suggested a simple hex key will solve the issue if wanted but I just lift the rear end briefly via a hand on the chain stay while rotating the crank enough while the bike is leaned up against a wall or on my stand to get a fresh length of chain in between the chainring and the jockey wheel, using a sacrificial hand towel under the chain apply to the top of the chain and back wipe. Done in less than 5 minutes every couple hundred miles or so.

 

[Comotose 3.0]

I know a while back someone posted about a small tool that fits the bolt holes so that you can move the crank and the chain ring and chain will move. When the crank hits the rubber coated tool, the chain will move allowing lubricating.

Hard to Google when you really can't come up with a proper term.

If you watch the specialized video on cleaning your e-bike, at 1:27 they show that you can use a try-hex Allen key.

 

[Alaskan]

I fail to see why all this fuss to risk a possible problem, when Park Tool has now made its chain cleaner reversible with handle mounts on both sides.

Back when I used the earlier version of the Park Tool Chain Cleaner. I just scrapped the handle, reversed the cleaner, holding it by the cleaner body so that I could clean the chain going forward.

Why even chance causing a problem with the motor when the new version 5.3 chain cleaner solves the problem for $30?

 

[6zfshdb]

Although I do use the Park chain cleaner from time to time, I don't spend a lot of time, effort and $$ on the task. The chain is a relatively inexpensive wear item which I routinely replace every couple of years.

 

[kahn]

If you watch the specialized video on cleaning your e-bike, at 1:27 they show that you can use a try-hex Allen key.

WONDERFUL.

Here they show back "pedaling" to clean the chain which might relieve those worried about damaging the motor or clutch or whatever is inside the "black box" engine compartment.

 

[kahn]

I fail to see why all this fuss to risk a possible problem, when Park Tool has now made its chain cleaner reversible with handle mounts on both sides.

Back when I used the earlier version of the Park Tool Chain Cleaner. I just scrapped the handle, reversed the cleaner, holding it by the cleaner body so that I could clean the chain going forward.

Why even chance causing a problem with the motor when the new version 5.3 chain cleaner solves the problem for $30?

Because some of us don't have a bike stand or the bike stand is in the basement and hard to access. Leaving the bike nicely grounded but rotating the chain can be done leaning against a tree or lawn chair.

 

[Alaskan]

Because some of us don't have a bike stand or the bike stand is in the basement and hard to access. Leaving the bike nicely grounded but rotating the chain can be done leaning against a tree or lawn chair.

Rotating the crank to clean the chain can be easily done in a forward direction by turning the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars. Doing so on a thin pad or mat will protect things from getting scraped up as will a pair of handlebar jacks, which are a good thing to carry on rides in case of a flat tire. If you have a leather saddle, it is a good idea to put the rain cover on it before flipping the bike over or place the saddle on a rag or mat .

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[Vamos]

Shimano even recommends against turning the bicycle upside down. In a manual for its hydraulic disc brakes it says:

“The disc brake is not designed to work when the bicycle is upside down. If the bicycle is turned upside down or on its side, the brake may not work correctly, and a serious accident could occur. Before riding the bicycle, be sure to operate the brake lever a few times to check that the brakes operate normally. If the brakes do not operate normally, stop using the brakes and consult a dealer or an agency.”

 

[BioWheel]

If you watch the specialized video on cleaning your e-bike, at 1:27 they show that you can use a try-hex Allen key.

Thanks for the post. But such confusion with one poster saying the manual says never to turn the chain backwards and the Specy video saying to do just that - I give up.

 

[kahn]

Not everyone has a bike stand. But I'd like to watch someone lube their chain while rotating the crank forward without one.

I can't believe what I started by asking the question. From some of the replies, it appears that folks do it in segments. Work on chain. Briefly lift bike and rotate crank forward. Work on the new segment, rinse, ahem, lube and repeat round and round.