Has that design been improved in any way in the 2015 model or is it still the same?
2014 Currie IZIP E3 DASH
- Thread starter Ralph
- Start date
CurrieTech
Member
It should be mostly the same. Maybe a slight software update and new paint job. All the same performance though.
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I meant specifically that BB wiring issue, was anything done about that?
CurrieTech
Member
Paul,
The BB issue was nothing more than some poorly tightened BB cups. The unit itself works great, when properly installed. When left too loose, they slowly rotate in the shell and damage the wires.
topaz024
New Member
Sounds like this might be the case, because it first happened while going very fast down a very steep and bouncy urban hill
Thanks for the reply! Taking it to REI (seller) now for the inspection, as suggested
CurrieTech
Member
Daniel,
That sounds good. Have them give us a ring 888-377-7115, and we'll get a new BB out to you quickly. The swap-out should be pretty quick once at the store.
DashRiprock
Active Member
I'll just come out and say it...were the warrantied motors/wheels supplied with the 'upgraded'(?) 2015 version style wheels and if not...should we be switching to the 2015 style wheels (OEM only available?) should our 2014 versions become damaged or end up have the 'truing' issues that Shea, HH and others have described in detail(?).
Also, Shea described the following method of adjusting his spokes:
"..You'll notice that the drive side (cassette) is tighter than the brake disc side to dish the beastly thing. Over-tighten that side and trouble will ensue as you lose dish and bring up the relative tension of the drive side. Over-tighten in general and the a spoke my break the hub body, expensive repair. Spoke prep over Locktight?..."
Is there a preferred method to true this wheel?
One last question (please)...Shea replaced his chain @ 1650 miles and the 2015 chain looks to be the same that is on our Peak (specially hardened for torque). Is this the only chain available for the Dash as of now?
Thanks as always for your help.
Also, Shea described the following method of adjusting his spokes:
"..You'll notice that the drive side (cassette) is tighter than the brake disc side to dish the beastly thing. Over-tighten that side and trouble will ensue as you lose dish and bring up the relative tension of the drive side. Over-tighten in general and the a spoke my break the hub body, expensive repair. Spoke prep over Locktight?..."
Is there a preferred method to true this wheel?
One last question (please)...Shea replaced his chain @ 1650 miles and the 2015 chain looks to be the same that is on our Peak (specially hardened for torque). Is this the only chain available for the Dash as of now?
Thanks as always for your help.
CurrieTech
Member
Mr. DashRiprock,
All good questions! The 2015 Dash wheel and the 2014 is the same. There may be a sticker difference only, to match with the 15 bike graphics. Functionally and hardware is the same. Of course all have the new extra strong magnet bonding inside!
The "Dish" of the rear wheel, (and front) is very normal in bicycles. It is simply to accomodate the stack of gears on the right side, but keep the rim on the centerline of the bike. Right side spokes are always much flatter and shorter, where the left side is 2mm or so longer and more angled between the flange and the rim. It's very unlikely you can tension the spokes so much that you'll crack the hub. We've never seen that once yet. You can use DT Spoke Freeze or Loc-Tite 290. 290 may work as a thread lock better, but DT may be more truable later down the road.
Our Peak, being a Mid-Drive does have a specific chain to handle super-human watts, where on the Dash this isn't the case, so that strength chain is not needed. I have to apologize, I have no current listing for the stock chain on our Dash. It very well may be the same high-torque type. Part of our part number on the Peak chain is "X9ERB". Likely that is the specific one used.
DashRiprock
Active Member
Good news(!) and thanks a lot. The chains are evidently the same now on both the Peak and Dash. Nice upgrades for those who waited for the 15's and little worries for those who couldn't.
Shea N Encinitas
Active Member
BTW - Stumbled across this chap building a Falco wheel, discusses spoke tension, dish etc. You may want to advance to around 27 mins. -S
topaz024
New Member
@CurrieTech
I'm in the San Fernando Valley, and I've been waiting for my Dash BB replacement to arrive at the Northridge REI for over a week--anything you could do would be greatly appreciated--I'm starting to lose my bike legs
I'm in the San Fernando Valley, and I've been waiting for my Dash BB replacement to arrive at the Northridge REI for over a week--anything you could do would be greatly appreciated--I'm starting to lose my bike legs
CurrieTech
Member
@CurrieTech
I'm in the San Fernando Valley, and I've been waiting for my Dash BB replacement to arrive at the Northridge REI for over a week--anything you could do would be greatly appreciated--I'm starting to lose my bike legs
Daniel,
I just looked at their account and other info, and cannot see anything about a Dash BB, anytime recently from that store. Since we're all just back from Interbike last week, we're on catch-up mode, so it may be on our to-do list, however, if it's been over a week, that doesn't seem right. That store is very good about taking care of their customers too. Something seems a bit fishy. You may want to talk to Pyar, their bike department manager, and have them call us to take care of you. We may just be able to get a new BB to the store this evening.
Sorry for any delays!
Danny Ortega
New Member
I've got about 700 miles on my dash. Worked great after replacing an under tightened BB Last week I somehow broke a rear spoke (REI concord should be placing an order for this any minute now) On a separate note is there any chance of upgrading the software on the 2014 controllers? Would love to have less assist on level 1. If not can you purchase the 2015 controller for the 2014 model and is there a difference in assist settings?
Thanks!
Danny
Thanks!
Danny
CurrieTech
Member
Danny,
There is a TOP SECRET SOFTWARE HACK, that you can try to trim the power a bit. I'm not exactly sure if it's completely across the board, but it's easy to do and reverse if you don't like the results.
TOP SECRET SOFTWARE HACK:
Once you're powered up, hold the on/off again for 10 or so seconds. You'll see a 5 appear on the left and a zero on the right. From there you can change that zero anywhere between +15 and -15 by using your * or i button to adjust. This should be able to power you down, -15% (we think). You can adjust this back to zero at any time, or go the other way, and see what it can do.
Spokes should be available soon, for purchase, but we may have some used ones around that we can mail you if you cannot get them from your dealer. Email [email protected] if you need a couple to hold you over.
There is a TOP SECRET SOFTWARE HACK, that you can try to trim the power a bit. I'm not exactly sure if it's completely across the board, but it's easy to do and reverse if you don't like the results.
TOP SECRET SOFTWARE HACK:
Once you're powered up, hold the on/off again for 10 or so seconds. You'll see a 5 appear on the left and a zero on the right. From there you can change that zero anywhere between +15 and -15 by using your * or i button to adjust. This should be able to power you down, -15% (we think). You can adjust this back to zero at any time, or go the other way, and see what it can do.
Spokes should be available soon, for purchase, but we may have some used ones around that we can mail you if you cannot get them from your dealer. Email [email protected] if you need a couple to hold you over.
CurrieTech
Member
Congrats, and uh oh!
Congrats on using the TOP SECRET SOFTWARE HACK to fine tune your bike.
Uh oh on the grinding wheel. I would advise that you have your dealer take a look at it. You just may have a loose magnet or two. There was a batch of bad wheels out there. If that is the case, we can have your rear wheel exchanged pretty quickly.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B96dkFgH-zxuOTdLUGpxT1RiZHM/edit
Congrats on using the TOP SECRET SOFTWARE HACK to fine tune your bike.
Uh oh on the grinding wheel. I would advise that you have your dealer take a look at it. You just may have a loose magnet or two. There was a batch of bad wheels out there. If that is the case, we can have your rear wheel exchanged pretty quickly.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B96dkFgH-zxuOTdLUGpxT1RiZHM/edit
Bud
Member
C.T.,
Let me state up front that I am a very, very, very happy owner of a 2014 Dash. I ride a lot, but I have not been this excited about getting on the bike in a long time. So, thank you!
I should have been more descriptive. The sensation is one of an intermittent, pulsing or cycling vibration. I feel it simply pushing the bike across a flat surface without engaging the motor. I also feel it through the pedals under power. Under power it does seem to relate somewhat to the motor' operation. Others report similar sensations in other posts. My shop confirmed the vibration but was unable to determine the source. Is this a known or acknowledged symptom or issue?
As the story continues, I put 90+ miles on the bike exploring NYC over a three days of a very long weekend. Highly recommended. I visited all of the hipness that is Brooklyn. I traversed half a dozen bridges including the George Washington, the Brooklyn, the Manhattan and the Williamsburg. The City has done a great job with bicycle infrastructure from Harlem to Battery Park. And the Dash was the perfect traveling companion.
I got up the next day to ride to work and I couldn't get the motor to engage so I drove in. Tried unsuccessfully to place a tech support call from the office, then ran the on board diagnostics once I got home home. It revealed that one of the brake mounted engine cut offs was not functioning. I 'futzed around' with for a bit and must have hit upon something because it sprang to life, teaching me that such testing and repair ought not be done in one's kitchen.
My obsession, I mean attention, was then turned to the troublesome diagnostic tool Number 9 - the dreaded amp-o-meter. Mine read 6.2 on a full charge. I then began scouring the posts and noted that was the lowest value reported on this site. OK, but that's just a screwy estimator, should not be relied upon, and ought to be removed from the diagnostic tool set. Fine. But then I shifted my focus to the issue that really drives the concern of everyone on all sides of this market: Range. The estimated range reported by others also greatly exceeded my observations. Some were some suggesting their meter would tell them they have an estimated 47 miles in power level 1! Some suggested their belief (to be taken with a grain of salt) that they could achieve 60 miles on a single fully charged battery. I have never seen more than 36 reported. 36 miles and 6.2? 47 miles and 8.2? 60 miles and a hit of crack?
So after all of that, what I would really like to know is whether I have a battery that is fully performing up to the manufacturers specifications. How do I come to know the answer? What do you recommend?
Let me state up front that I am a very, very, very happy owner of a 2014 Dash. I ride a lot, but I have not been this excited about getting on the bike in a long time. So, thank you!
I should have been more descriptive. The sensation is one of an intermittent, pulsing or cycling vibration. I feel it simply pushing the bike across a flat surface without engaging the motor. I also feel it through the pedals under power. Under power it does seem to relate somewhat to the motor' operation. Others report similar sensations in other posts. My shop confirmed the vibration but was unable to determine the source. Is this a known or acknowledged symptom or issue?
As the story continues, I put 90+ miles on the bike exploring NYC over a three days of a very long weekend. Highly recommended. I visited all of the hipness that is Brooklyn. I traversed half a dozen bridges including the George Washington, the Brooklyn, the Manhattan and the Williamsburg. The City has done a great job with bicycle infrastructure from Harlem to Battery Park. And the Dash was the perfect traveling companion.
I got up the next day to ride to work and I couldn't get the motor to engage so I drove in. Tried unsuccessfully to place a tech support call from the office, then ran the on board diagnostics once I got home home. It revealed that one of the brake mounted engine cut offs was not functioning. I 'futzed around' with for a bit and must have hit upon something because it sprang to life, teaching me that such testing and repair ought not be done in one's kitchen.
My obsession, I mean attention, was then turned to the troublesome diagnostic tool Number 9 - the dreaded amp-o-meter. Mine read 6.2 on a full charge. I then began scouring the posts and noted that was the lowest value reported on this site. OK, but that's just a screwy estimator, should not be relied upon, and ought to be removed from the diagnostic tool set. Fine. But then I shifted my focus to the issue that really drives the concern of everyone on all sides of this market: Range. The estimated range reported by others also greatly exceeded my observations. Some were some suggesting their meter would tell them they have an estimated 47 miles in power level 1! Some suggested their belief (to be taken with a grain of salt) that they could achieve 60 miles on a single fully charged battery. I have never seen more than 36 reported. 36 miles and 6.2? 47 miles and 8.2? 60 miles and a hit of crack?
So after all of that, what I would really like to know is whether I have a battery that is fully performing up to the manufacturers specifications. How do I come to know the answer? What do you recommend?
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Bud
Member
One more question I have not been able to find a solid answer to is whether this is a bike I can use to commute in the rain and snow. Commuting was the intended purpose of the purchase - and I try to commute by bike whenever I can year round. I'm assuming the announced but as of yet unfulfilled promise of a city kit for the bike suggests rain and snow use. But perhaps the fact that it has not yet come to market suggests the manufacturer is concerned about encouraging use of the bike in foul weather. I don't want to ruin a great piece of machinery, and I really can't read tea leaves well at all. So what's the message? Thanks again.
Mine has been fine in the rain so far. Snow shouldn't be any different, but it's going to require a higher frequency cleaning schedule to keep ahead of the road salt. We'll see how much the cold weather impacts battery performance as well (though I'm probably already at the stage of needing to think about a second one). It's been pretty mild here --Massachussetts -- so far, nothing worse than low 30's
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Brand new I think I could have squeezed 47 miles on PAS1 if I didn't go much more than 15mph. I know that only because in the first couple of days I had a problem with my brake lever that triggered the motor cutoff and limited me to about 15 assisted. That was a long slow commute day, but I sure had a ton of battery left! But my more general use is pedaling w/ normal cycling effort at PAS1 -- this gets me 21-25mph on level ground. For me a 20-22 mile commute used 65-75% of the battery at first. Now, two months later w/ around 1500 miles on the odo, the same commute is pushing me more to 75-85% of battery each way, sometimes more. It's enough that I'll probably need to get another battery soon and swap them mid-way (I was hoping I'd make it until next year w/o getting another battery, but I don't think that will be the case).
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