CurrieTech
Member
One more question I have not been able to find a solid answer to is whether this is a bike I can use to commute in the rain and snow. Commuting was the intended purpose of the purchase - and I try to commute by bike whenever I can year round. I'm assuming the announced but as of yet unfulfilled promise of a city kit for the bike suggests rain and snow use. But perhaps the fact that it has not yet come to market suggests the manufacturer is concerned about encouraging use of the bike in foul weather. I don't want to ruin a great piece of machinery, and I really can't read tea leaves well at all. So what's the message? Thanks again.
Bud,
Thank you for taking the time to describe your experiences on your Dash. Range is a tricky thing. It is affected mechanical, electrical and human factors, and can be quite subjective when trying to diagnose.
Firstly I would advise to have all the simple things like air pressure and brakes tuned properly, so you can rule them out as any factor. You might want to establish your baseline range. The numbers posted on our website is for a 170 lb rider on flat ground with "normal pedaling". The "normal pedaling" is VERY subjective. Does that mean pushing 3 lbs on to the pedals or 10.5 lbs? Kind of hard to know. So here's what we suggest. With a full charge, find a very flat area, and just ride in throttle mode until the battery shuts the system down, when empty. That will give you the least range for you that is possible. Any pedaling, with actual pushing, or any pedal assist modes will dramatically increase the range.
The Diagnostic modes 8 and 9 are supposed to be the same. 8 is your charge percentage, and 9 is the amp-hour representation of that charge. So at 100% charge, in a perfect world should show 088 in #9, but this NEVER happens, both numbers can be off from reality. The charge percentage has proven to be pretty accurate to the battery bars on-screen and the lights on the side of the battery pack, but the amp-hours have never been right, and have since been removed from the software for 2015. Even batteries showing 099 / 064 have proven on a drain test to perform as good as 100/088, on several trials, on several batteries.
For your brake sensor issue, that seems to have been fixed, for now, you may want to, first take the battery off, then open the back of the LCD screen and the button pad, and make sure all the wire connections are fully in place. Anywhere in the line of the sensors that may be loose, could trigger the system to think your brakes are on. Loose sensor, missing magnet, damaged wire, loose inside button pad, or loose inside LCD all can show that dreaded "001" on test 7.
Here's what it looks like inside:
https://sites.google.com/a/curriete...ort/component-replacement/brake-cutoff-sensor
https://sites.google.com/a/curriete...duct-support/component-replacement/button-pad
https://sites.google.com/a/curriete...chnical-support/component-replacement/display