Giant SyncDrive Pro 2020 "tuning"

The display on my Giant has the battery level and an estimated (remaining) range.
...will the range estimate also be thrown out of whack with a BadAss connected?...I'm guessing it would be...but maybe not...the algorithms used to calculate the remaining range just may automagically compensate with the BadAss inplace...or not?

cheers,
Mike

IME, the calculated range is completely divorced from reality anyway. I would guess it would change and be even more wrong with the badass, since its probably a simplistic percentage per mile calculation and the badass is going to change the miles ridden, but thats just a wild guess.
 
Still leaning towards the BadAss, so a question more likely directed at @FlatSix911...
For the simplicity of the install of the BadAss over the dongles, I'm happy to compromise that speed and distance won't read correctly on the display with a BadAss...
The display on my Giant has the battery level and an estimated (remaining) range.
...will the range estimate also be thrown out of whack with a BadAss connected?...I'm guessing it would be...but maybe not...the algorithms used to calculate the remaining range just may automagically compensate with the BadAss inplace...or not?

cheers,
Mike
Mike, good news... the BadAssBox does not affect the battery level readout or range estimates on my Yamaha mid-drive bike.
I am very pleased with the BAB speed delimiter and use Strava for more accurate speed and distance calculations. Good luck! ;)
 
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Hmmm...gravel bike. Well, you may be able to pedal just a shade faster unlocked. Don't be expecting any miracles.

BAB FTW. 😜
That said, with 'old school' magnet speed sensor, the free-mod method is the cheapest and easiest. YMMV
 
I've just had some info from a friend who cut the speed sensor cable on his Stance and soldered in a new reed switch ($3) on the end and made a much neater job with a housing for it to match with the magnet on the end of the peddle crank.
 
I've just had some info from a friend who cut the speed sensor cable on his Stance and soldered in a new reed switch ($3) on the end and made a much neater job with a housing for it to match with the magnet on the end of the peddle crank.
This might be helpful to other EBR members... any photos?
 
@Stefan Mikes - great thread! and you're lucky to have your brother to help/do the install - it looked like a nightmare!
It makes the BadAss4 appear sooo much easier, and fortunately my e-bike has the old school spoke magnet 👍
I would have thought that the Badass Box would definitely be the way to go. And they do ship within Australia, so reasonably quickly. You can always test out what effect it will have by swapping your speed sensor to the outside of the chain stay with cable ties and attaching your magnet to the crank instead of the spoke. It will work but I think some people have reported problems over time where the software presumably picks up the fact that the cadence is exactly the same as the "speed". You will also need a security Torx bit if you want to remove your speed sensor. You would certainly be pleased though with the results from the Badass Box (even better if you don't have a display reporting annoying numbers too :)).
 
Yeah I hit the 25km/hr limit constantly.
I wouldn’t want to de-restrict if the limit here was the same as say California
Cheers
Mike
I agree with you Mike. I don't activate the derestrictor on my Giant Trance E+ off-road as even 25 km/h there is high speed. However, I need to derestrict when riding on paved roads. It is not that I ride very fast there (e-MTBs are not speed demons) but it is vital for me to easily ride at just 28 km/h and with no "wall-effect" at the motor cut-off. It is actually very dangerous when the motor cuts off while I cross an intersection...
 
You will also need a security Torx bit if you want to remove your speed sensor.
that's a great heads up! - cheers 👍 , and is the clincher.

That said, with 'old school' magnet speed sensor, the free-mod method is the cheapest and easiest.
Moving the speed sensor to the crank just became harder (requiring a security Torx)...and I like the way the BAB can be removed in seconds...

Mike
 
A vast difference between @Stefan Mikes' install and @Kal's just removing the bash plate.
This Speedbox video shows significant work for the install on a Giant - no crank removal, undoing the chain ring apparently provides access, but still requires getting lots of stuff off to swing the motor down for the install:

From my perspective, still a difficult install.

@Stefan Mikes - cheers again for this thread 👍

cheers
Mike
 
This Speedbox video shows significant work for the install on a Giant - no crank removal, undoing the chain ring apparently provides access, but still requires getting lots of stuff off to swing the motor down for the install:

From my perspective, still a difficult install.

@Stefan Mikes - cheers again for this thread 👍

cheers
Mike
Thanks for sharing the video... by contrast here is the BadAssBox 3-step installation process. ;)

1. Clip BAB over the frame-mounted speed sensor. 2. Reposition the spoke magnet. 3. Done!

1612723760434.png
 
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What I do like like is the ability to blast down the road at 40 MPH with full power pedal assist. I'm just a analog guy living in a digital world.
I really like that @iskjone. That 'blast mode' ist a lot of fun on paved roads.
@MRB, I'm sorry to hear about your problems, did you solve "speed sensor red light" issue ?

I decided to go digital way; just as this great thread started thanks to @Stefan. This time that electronic solution is VOLspeed V3.
Let's start, get that in that slim LIV Vall PRO 2021 body :)
01.JPG

Will that be @Kal botox correction or heart surgery ? :cool: let's find out...

 
I really like that @iskjone. That 'blast mode' ist a lot of fun on paved roads.
@MRB, I'm sorry to hear about your problems, did you solve "speed sensor red light" issue ?

I decided to go digital way; just as this great thread started thanks to @Stefan. This time that electronic solution is VOLspeed V3.
Let's start, get that in that slim LIV Vall PRO 2021 body :)
View attachment 79078
Will that be @Kal botox correction or heart surgery ? :cool: let's find out...
Good luck with the installation... you will not be disappointed with the top speed performance improvement. ;)
 
let's start....one post per operation ? I have to raise my post numbers :)
first step....remove Crank
no sound (I had to cut out sound ... inappropriate language :) ) , but that first bang when the bolt loosens is very nervous because you don't want to break the axles on the new bike..

Good luck with the installation... you will not be disappointed with the top speed performance improvement. ;)
@FlatSix911, to reveal a little more
 
@Stefan, sorry, no more videos, just photos. Maybe I'll record more if a friend needs help with GIANT FATHOM E+ 1 PRO installation.
So,who survived the first bolt bang with me :), can continue, others please select easier topic :)
With help of Lockring tool i had no trouble to remove chainring bolt, unscrew clockwise ! :

02_tool.JPG

then remove plastic under and side cover and its here :) in all its glory:
04.JPG
 
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