Worth the wait, Hydra is here.

Probably also going to order new crankarms.. getting closer to cutting this one arm off. Tried to use a gear puller on it but can't really grab on. I've heard people say to heat up crank arm to get it off, but don't really want to mess with that on ebike.
I stripped out one WW crank arm not realizing there was a washer stuck in there. I got the arm off using an ARES 15036 puller. It has thin hooks to fit behind the crank arm. I think I had it in the two-jaw configuration.
 
Agree about the maintenance hassle for these ebikes. My sense it's primarily many parts aren't sorted for long/smooth operating life, design is simple with inadequate seals and the other thing is so many things seem soft and weak. Hopefully some of the newer motors from Fazua or TQ can be adapted for sub $10k setups. Really impressed by the TQ-HPR50 design, would love a scaled up to 90-100nm with a flexible Phaserunner controller. The quiet gearing with small and light motor config is really impressive.
 
@loamoaf Ah yeah I need black cranks, sorry.

Really impressed by the TQ-HPR50 design, would love a scaled up to 90-100nm with a flexible Phaserunner controller.

Soon as I saw Fuel EXe chance of me buying any existing ebikes went to 0. I'll never get a noisey motor when a quiet one exists. (quiet middrive at least)

But while a 40lbs/300w/320wh MTB is super interesting, just so much money. I mean $10k setups are too much regardless. But even like $7k I'd need it to be a more flexible bike. If there was a slightly heavier 500w motor and bike had like a internal 320wh batter and an external 500wh battery. Being able to have like a 43lbs bike small battery would be nearly as good as 40lbs, but but also being able to have 820wh setup would make it more do-everything. Something like that. I'd probably buy such a bike. I feel like 500watts is 'enough' even if 750-1000watts is nice.

BUT if they put TQ-HRP50 in a gravel bike.. I'd probably buy that if it was not obscenely priced. Like a Canyon Grail with a TQ-HRP50, give me that.
 
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I have to admit that after wrestling an M620 bike around now for 9 months that although they are fun and definitely up to the task of most missions they are overkill for most situations, especially riding with others. I find myself drifting in the same mindspace as above of a lower 40lb bike with less nm on tap. Much like my original DIY efforts where I had a TSDZ2 hard tail bike that weighed 44lbs for a number of years actually that was up to most of the trails I put it on.

To that end though I am pretty sold now on FS which immediately adds potential weight. The TQ system looks quite refined and they certainly have been in the eBike motor game for about as long as anyone with their first and much larger motor that was on the Haibike Flyon and that German brand I can't think of the name of. I rode one at Interbke one year and it was pretty noisy so glad to see they paid attention to that detail, the Germans do have great engineers.....one thing for sure is that I will never cough up the amount of money that I see any TQ bike that will be forthcoming will cost so I am exploring other avenues which unfortunately leads back to Bafang as they seem to be maintaining their place as the outsider company that will still supply the outsider market for the foreseeable future?

There is a cartel of carbon frame builders in China that is working on a lower weight 150mm class 410wh 70ish nm motor using the M810 Bafang targeted to be in the 18/19kg range I am working with that I will probably invest in next cycle.
 
These are photos from my first and second rides; total of about 35 miles and 4700 feet of climbing.

The Bafang Ultra motor with the Innotrace controller is no joke. Does anyone go above Eco2 for technical trail riding??


WW Sunset 28 Sept 2022.jpg
Calero Bike and bridge 30 Sept 2022.jpg
 
The Bafang Ultra motor with the Innotrace controller is no joke. Does anyone go above Eco2 for technical trail riding??
I'll use Eco 3 for the steepest climbs but it is a challenge keeping enough weight on the front wheel for steering. I'm usually on Eco 2 for technical trails. I use sensitivity torque level 0 and motor torque level 0 for all assist levels. This gives smooth, nearly instantaneous assist when starting on an incline.
 
Eco1 or 2 on trails depending on much effort I want to put in or how much adrenaline I want to produce. Sometimes jam into eco3 when trail gets steep or starting off at the base of a hill and need quick acceleration.

I've only come across one hill that I think I would need sport mode to get up- not sure if it's too steep to stay on the bike though. I took a few runs at it in eco4 and bailed out about halfway up where it steepens. Next time I'm out there I'm going to run at it in Sport without stopping to think about it first.
 
I just ordered some of those OneUp Pedals. I think the picture illustrates why 😂

Oneup offers a “friendly pin” kit that works on both sizes of their composite pedals:


I’m thinking even the OEM pins on the composites are going to be leg shredders, just maybe not as bad as some pins? I got a pretty extensive shredding from a set of pedals with tall 6mm grub screws, so looking at options now with something other than using even a shorter grub screw. My problem was not slipping off the pedals, rather getting my shoes caught and tangled up on those pungi sticks when stopping. I suppose grippiness needed is a function of riding type/style, so some folks may need and like extra grip. Only took one shredding for me to want to avoid it happening again…
 
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