Very pleased with new Como 4.0 650b

[Super Dave]

Specialized confirmed that mine is the 6 volt version. I also asked if any XL Como 5.0 were in the plans and she didn't see anything for the coming year. Bummer.

I finally got a video of the daily ride through the park. It's getting dark early and that's why I want to improve my lighting. I'm using a 2000 lumen light on my hemet. I'm also using a B&M Ixon Space (150 lux) on my handlebars.
Tonights ride

 

[Super Dave]

Hi guys,
Since I won't be getting a 5.0 anytime soon I think I want to upgrade to an 11 speed which will mean changing out a number of components.
I ordered a 10 speed cassette but the jump up in gears is too large. The stock 10 speed cassette is 11x42 and I'd like an 11 speed 11x46.

I've been happy with Shimano but I'm not sure which group to get. I assume I need the long cage derailleur. Will something like this work on an e-bike?
SHIMANO DEORE XT

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Hi guys,
Since I won't be getting a 5.0 anytime soon I think I want to upgrade to an 11 speed which will mean changing out a number of components.
I ordered a 10 speed cassette but the jump up in gears is too large. The stock 10 speed cassette is 11x42 and I'd like an 11 speed 11x46.

I've been happy with Shimano but I'm not sure which group to get. I assume I need the long cage derailleur. Will something like this work on an e-bike?
SHIMANO DEORE XT

Thanks,
Dave

Dave,
Could you give a good reason why you are changing from 10 to 11 speed? Just to get the 46T granny gear? How about replacing the chainring with a smaller one?

I assume your Como has a 40T chainring (right?) 40-42 gearing ratio is 0.95. To get a similar gearing with the existing 40T largest cog, you could be well off with a 38T chainring. You could, for instance, use a Shimano STEPS SM-CRE80-B chainring (104 mm BCD), which is made of steel (I have used one for my Vado 5.0). That chainring is good for both 10 and 11 speed drivetrains.

Bear in mind that replacing the drivetrain requires swapping:

• Shifters
• Chainring (probably)
• Cassette
• Derailleur (long cage)
• Chain

If you must, use the Shimano SLX M7000 1x11 groupset. I think that is totally unnecessary though.
-----------------
P.S. I have just noticed you were talking about high jumps between gears. I was advised to replace my Vado SL cassette with 10-speed CS-M771 (11-36T) one. You lose the 42T largest cog but the Deore XT 10 speed cassette I'm talking about has exceptionally smooth gear jumps. And I have used it on my Vado SL instead of replacing the whole drivetrain!

 

[Super Dave]

Thank you Stefan. That is a brilliant work around. Yes 40 tooth chainring. You are correct, I need more of a granny gear. Some of my hills are very steep. My cadence gets low in the middle power mode and I feel the need to switch to the high level power mode. Some days I'd like to just putter up the steep hills.
Mahalo,
Dave

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I need to mention you are free to ride without the chainguard, Dave (most of MTBers don't use the chainguard).
I am not sure if you need to replace the bolts. Praxis chainrings have the mounting holes threaded, while most of alternative chainrings need 8x8mm MTB chainring bolts with nut. Therefore, you might need in addition:

• Steel chainring bolts, set of 5 (select the silver ones, as these are made of steel -- all other are made of aluminium and easy to pull the thread)
• Chainring nut wrench
• A threadlocker such as Loctite Blue

You will use four bolts from the set. The nut wrench is to make the nut for the bolt stay in the position when you tighten the bolt with a regular hex wrench. You might use a little bit of the threadlocker on the thread. And the torque to tighten is very low (some 5 Nm) so you will just tighten the bolts by feeling until you know these have been properly secured.

Sometimes, unscrewing the motor cover helps in the process to get more space behind the chainring.

 

[Super Dave]

Thank you Stafan for the Amazon links and info. I'm going to order the new chainring. I want to keep the chainring guard to keep my pants clean.
If I keep the chain guard do I need new bolts?
Thanks,
DF

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thank you Stafan for the Amazon links and info. I'm going to order the new chainring. I want to keep the chainring guard to keep my pants clean.
If I keep the chain guard do I need new bolts?
Thanks,
DF

Dave: It might be problematic. You would need a matching chainguard of the proper size, and I know nothing about it. MTBers never use a chainguard (they might use a special protector against chain dropping but they use their bikes hard, often jumping; such a protector could be impractical in your case, as Como was not made for that). Bear in mind a 38T chainring is really small and I don't think it would stain your trousers (anyway, I don't use any guard for my ring).

 

[Super Dave]

Thanks Stefan. The new chainring is on the way. I'll have the bike shop sort it out. I'm going to make some other changes:

• change the bars to Jones H Bar with the 2.5" rise
• Install Supernova Mini Pro 25 light
• Have them continue to problem solve my electrical / software issue

 

[Ebiker53]

Thanks Stefan. The new chainring is on the way. I'll have the bike shop sort it out. I'm going to make some other changes:

• change the bars to Jones H Bar with the 2.5" rise
• Install Supernova Mini Pro 25 light
• Have them continue to problem solve my electrical / software issue

Let us know how the Jones H Bar works out.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I wouldn't use the Jones H-Bar as curved handlebars eliminate the use of Redshift ShockStop stem (the suspension stem gets its load from a wrong angle).

 

[Super Dave]

When I got the H bars I was a little disappointed that they didn't sweep back more. For the last 20 years I've ridden bars that sweep all the way back. The 45 degree bend on the H bars is not that different than the stock 30 degree Specialized bars.

Here's what sold me on the H bars:

• 2.5" gain in rise
• the extra bar in the front to add lights and such. My bars are getting crowded
• the extra space on the bars where the grips and controls go...I'm adding extra stuff like remote controls for lights
• the bag looks really cool. I want to bring my binoculars on my daily garden ride. The bag is not too big...not too small. H Bar Pack

But, correct me if I'm wrong...I don't think the redshift ShockStop or their competitor come in a 31.8 clamp diameter.

Anyway, I've got them and I'm going to try them out. I'm in the experimental stage of new bike ownership. However, for most people the stock Como would be perfect.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I don't think the redshift ShockStop or their competitor come in a 31.8 clamp diameter.

It does. The standard diameters are 25.4, 31.8 and 35 mm, and the ShockStop comes in 31.8 mm size. The 31.8 diameter is the most popular nowadays (I've just checked the diameter with a caliper).
The limitation of Redshift is it can only take a flat handlebar or the drop one. The documentation specifically reads any curved handlebars wouldn't work.

 

[Super Dave]

Sorry, I was wrong. I think my Como has a 1 1/4" stem. I asked Redshift and here's their reply.

Unfortunately, we don't have any immediate plans to produce a +30-degree 1 1/4" stem but we are looking at that for the future.

Speaking of suspension, I've been thinking a full suspension bike would be cool. If you go over moderate potholes / moderate bad road sections that you would normally stand up for on a no suspension bike like the Como...could you stay seated and be comfortable? What about going over moderate speed bumps...do you need to stand up for those?

The bike I'm interested in is the Riese & Müller Delite Active with the old school gears. DELITE ACTIVE

I'm not in a rush but I'm curious.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Dave,
Your stem is 1 1/4" or 31.8 mm. The issue here is the Como stem is non-standard, or specialized. As the steering tube is (I guess) of the standard A-HEAD size, you could replace the stem with any A-HEAD compatible stem. I simply do not recommend such a revolution to your e-bike especially as you have already invested in your comfortable Jones H Bar handlebars.

Before you make a grave and expensive mistake, let me tell you something. Your Como is equipped with pretty wide tires (2.3"). Look at the inflation pressure spec at the tire sidewall. Now, inflate/deflate tires to about half the pressure between the minimum and maximum. You will notice how smooth your ride has become! It is because the tires are the primary means to soften rapid road vibration.

Full suspension is greatly over-hyped. I used to own a premium Giant FS e-MTB and learned one thing: The full suspension is not the thing for the ride comfort but rather to maintain the bike traction in any terrain. The comfort function is just a side-effect. Full suspension can dampen slow road vibrations but it is helpless with rapid vibration (and that's where your half inflated tires win).

R&M?

• Very expensive
• Heavy
• A Bosch e-bike. After you have ridden a Specialized, the last thing you need is a Bosch e-bike Especially as R&M seems to be unable to implement the latest Bosch Smart System
• The full suspension as used in R&M e-bikes is mediocre compared to what you find in e-MTBs.

Just think, analyse, learn, consider.

And you know what? I gave my full suspension Giant Trance E+ 2 Pro to my brother as a family gift. I've found I am more happy with properly equipped Specialized e-bikes. I use a Baramind BAM Trek suspension handlebars and Kinekt 2.1 suspension seatpost on my full power Vado 5.0 (plus 2" half inflated tires), and Redshift ShockStop system on my Vado SL. With my 19,000 km (11,800 mi) e-biking experience I do not need anything else...

 

[Super Dave]

Thanks Stefan. Interesting suspension bars.
The Como is a great bike.
I think I will remove the chainguard. I was cleaning the drivetrain and the chainguard prevents cleaning.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I think I will remove the chainguard. I was cleaning the drivetrain and the chainguard prevents cleaning.

That's not the best idea. The Specialized chainring is well engineered and performs its function very well.
To clean the chainring, use WD40 on it first. There are bike-specific brushes: one of them is long but very narrow and it is how you clean the chairing with the chainguard. (The same brush is for cleaning the cassette between cogs). Besides, chainring is not very much critical regarding the drivetrain cleaniness.

I have removed the chainguard on my Vado 5.0 for only one reason: I wanted to replace the original chainring with a far smaller one, and that was an MTB 38T chainring. MTBers do not typically use chainguards, MTB rings are very small, and mountain bikers do not mind to have their rides dirty or shoes/socks stained In urban cycling, chainguard is highly advisable as not to stain your pants. It also protects the chain against jumping out outwards.

 

[Super Dave]

I had my chain jump off on the inside of the chainring the other day. That was strange since there's no front derailleur. No issues after that.

Photo from this evening's ride.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Dave:

• Check whether the derailleur clutch is engaged. The small grey plastic tab should be in the backward/top position.
• Check if the links of the chain are placed properly in the Narrow-Wide manner on the chainring.

With the class of your drive-train, the chain should never jump off!

 

[kahn]

@Super Dave

I've had that happen a few times with my Creo. And the chain got stuck between the ring and the motor housing. One time I did forget to re-engage the clutch.

The second time was after another rear flat. I may have misaligned th chain and the gear teeth as mentioned by @Stefan Mikes. I know I had a picture of the proper alignment but can't find it now.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Two possible arrangements depending on the manufacturer:

Praxis "Wave" chainring.

With Narrow-Wide chainrings, the outer link should be placed on the wider chainring tooth when looking from the top. (The wide and narrow teeth alternate). There is a diagram at the back of of the chainring showing where the outer chain link should be placed.