Toseven DM02 500W Motor

In the early 90's, I bought of tub of this grease, mainly to grease the sliders on automotive brake calipers. It's also rated for wheel bearings. As time passed, I used it for garage door wheels, and eventually in my bike axles, headsets and BB's. Recently used a dollop in my TSDZ2 mid drive.
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It's almost all gone now. I bought a tube of Mobil SHC. I don't like the cartridge, so when I finish off a tin of peanuts, I'll fill it with Mobil,

Anyway, I did buy a DM02 motor last month. Comes in around the same weight as a TSDZ2.
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I powered it up on the bench, and the display lights up and the throttle works, The display has something like 50 screens and will show watts, temperature, and voltage, the big Three, although I might crash the bike flipping thru the screens to find them.
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I also bought the programming cables. Virus scans indicate no malware in the Toseven downloads, but I have no plans to update the firmware, It seems that until a few weeks ago, the download firmware was older than what they were shipping in current product. With that kind of release control, best to avoid. I hate programming firmware anyway.

I need a bike for it. I have a nice GT hybrid that I swore never to electrify it, but now I'm getting too old to pedal around without power. Guess I will sacrifice it to the Ebike Gods.

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No real world results yet. It ain't wine country where I live. Snow just fell today, and I have to reorganize my bikes and lawn equipment to get the snownlower out.
 
I remember that grease !!

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I've never had any, but I remember seeing it around many times.

My grease containers all look the same as yours.
It sucks how you always end up with crud in the grease, so when you have to pack a bearing, you have to dig past the top layer of grease to reach the clean stuff underneath.

I never threw out the dirty stuff, and would wipe it along my car fenders to help stop rust.
Fenders always rust out first.

,.. Snow just fell today, and I have to reorganize my bikes and lawn equipment to get the snownlower out.

Snow fell here too for the first time today.
I think my riding days are done for the season?

Now I can finally grease my motor with my fancy $50 Mobil 28 Airplane Grease,..


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It should only be a ½ hour job but I'm sure I'll screw up or break something that will take a month to fix, so I waited until winter to do it.
I hope I don't get sand or metal bits in the grease. 😂
 
I remember that grease !!

View attachment 186438


I've never had any, but I remember seeing it around many times.

My grease containers all look the same as yours.
It sucks how you always end up with crud in the grease, so when you have to pack a bearing, you have to dig past the top layer of grease to reach the clean stuff underneath.

I never threw out the dirty stuff, and would wipe it along my car fenders to help stop rust.
Fenders always rust out first.



Snow fell here too for the first time today.
I think my riding days are done for the season?

Now I can finally grease my motor with my fancy $50 Mobil 28 Airplane Grease,..


View attachment 186440

It should only be a ½ hour job but I'm sure I'll screw up or break something that will take a month to fix, so I waited until winter to do it.
I hope I don't get sand or metal bits in the grease. 😂
interesting,I see "clay thickner" on the container,have seen clays that were slick as as eel dreck if you can keep them wet,anyway most greases seem to be a metallic stearate matrix with different metal bases with of course the oil in suspension which does most of the lubricating assume the :stearates are basically a form of soap.had a conversation with a chemist at one of the big lubricating manufacturers,he sez do not mix grease with different metallic bases,FoMoCo was bad about this they used to use a sodium based grease while most everyone else used a lithium based grease. These nasty messes have increased my love for sealed bearings over the years,tech these days has progressed to the point were machines with high bearing loads can go "greaseless"
 
interesting,I see "clay thickner" on the container,..

It's supposed to be the best thing to lubricate the nylon gears in my hub motor.
It's supposed to have the most staying power to stay stuck to the gears and not get flung off at high rpms and make a mess inside the motor.
It's supposed to have a Huge temperature range and be able to deal with lots of vibration and moisture as well.

And it's the best thing to use on your airplane 🛬 😂

It's hard to find in Canada and I actually had to buy it from and airplane supply store.

It's like ten bucks in America. 😂
 
It's supposed to be the best thing to lubricate the nylon gears in my hub motor.
It's supposed to have the most staying power to stay stuck to the gears and not get flung off at high rpms and make a mess inside the motor.
It's supposed to have a Huge temperature range and be able to deal with lots of vibration and moisture as well.

And it's the best thing to use on your airplane 🛬 😂

It's hard to find in Canada and I actually had to buy it from and airplane supply store.

It's like ten bucks in America. 😂
whoa! well rest assured clay is something you have to "wear off" usually
 
On my most recent DM02 build the battery would show three bars and the display would show half-a-bar. I used this chart to help sync them. Then I had to refine it.
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On my most recent DM02 build the battery would show three bars and the display would show half-a-bar. I used this chart to help sync them. Then I had to refine it.
View attachment 196457
I wouldn't worry about the battery LED syncing with the display.
Personally.. I would set my desired LV cut off in the controller (39v seems safe enough as that's still a little over 22% on the average 18650 cell) and use that for 0%. Keeping in mind it should be a little higher than the LV cutoff on the battery BMS. Hopefully the BMS isn't set at an overly protective high voltage.
But then Wtf do I know 😜
 
I could only show so much of that chart. Above are recommended high and low settings. When you go to the high setting and press Up and Down you come to where you can set the values for each 10% from your zero to 100. I went with 38-54.6V
 
I could only show so much of that chart. Above are recommended high and low settings. When you go to the high setting and press Up and Down you come to where you can set the values for each 10% from your zero to 100. I went with 38-54.6V
In one way that makes sense as the upper voltages are more efficient and drop slower. That said I've never used % and once you know your battery it's not hard to get a feeling for what's left by following the voltage.
Probably not what the typical end user wants though.
 
In one way that makes sense as the upper voltages are more efficient and drop slower. That said I've never used % and once you know your battery it's not hard to get a feeling for what's left by following the voltage.
Probably not what the typical end user wants though.
Imaging the front of this type of curve to be the charge cycle. Like pumping a 120 psi road bike tire, the front part of the curve represents the effort of charging cycle. It is easy to pump at first. Then gets steep to the peak. Where you need to really lay into the pump by the top, levels. Then just below the top to the right represents the discharge. It is strong at first then goes to a long tail of diminishing power. Ideally at the top levels they are relatively close in displayed percentage of battery charge. Then become further apart at the tail, so with a five bar set-up the bottom bar is maybe 30% longer that the top bar. The graphic displayed is not perfect, just an example of the species of curve and type of drop-off. If we just went with 1,2,3,4,5 in even increments, we would be way off 4 to five has almost nothing. .5 to 1 has so much more. That area needs to be adjusted to the actual cells and BMS. Ideally so each bar on the display has equal juice, so .5 to one has the same power as 4-5 at the display. With each bar having equal pull and ride time. What bike mechanics need to know! 90% is social.

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Imaging the front of this type of curve to be the charge cycle. Like pumping a 120 psi road bike tire, the front part of the curve represents the effort of charging cycle. It is easy to pump at first. Then gets steep to the peak. Where you need to really lay into the pump by the top. Then just below the top to the right represents the discharge. It is strong at first then goes to a long tail of diminishing power. Ideally at the top levels they are relatively close in displayed percentage of battery charge. Then become further apart at the tail, so with a five bar set-up the bottom bar is maybe 30% longer that the top bar. The graphic displayed is not perfect, just an example of the species of curve and type of drop-off. If we just went with 1,2,3,4,5 in even increments, we would be way off. 4 to five has almost nothing. .5 to 1 has so much more. That area needs to be adjusted to the cells and BMS. Ideally so each bar on the display has equal juice, so .5 to one has the same power as 4-5 at the display.

View attachment 196466
It becomes complicated because all batteries aren't created equal. A 3cell/parallel will act different than a 5cell/parallel. A 18650 cell will be a little different then a 21700. And then there's the differences in chemistry and the batteries rated max current output. Then add in the difference in load like the difference between a 500w or a 1000w motor.
My display battery bars even change color from green - yellow - orange - red. But I pay no attention to bars, color or %.
Voltage I know and trust once I'm familiar with a battery. If you have the ability to map every 10% for a particular setup then I guess percentage could be accurate and helpful.. but I've never had an issue. I leave that to the systems like Bosch where everything is spec'd, consistent and calibration comes easier. But that really doesn't interest me.
 
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Guys
FWIW,
I have the 2 bikes, Wart Hog MD 750w and the Juggs 4 750w,
they are set up the same way/items and ridden the same way over the same roads/trails etc, the WH has 21700 battery's and the Juggs 4 has the 18650 battery's.

I can tell the difference between the 21700 and 18650 batts, the 21700 is 48v (CO @ 42v) and the 18650 is 52v (CO @ 45v) per displays, both are set to Volts.

99.5 % of the time, I use/ride Eco 1 for all pedaling, of the 9 steps, very seldom do I use the throttle, I consistently get longer mileage per charge from the 21700 batts, 80+ mpc, (I don't why), the 52v 18650 batts should be better? than the 48v? from what I read/heard.
My average speeds are 10>15 mph.

Since I am color blind, I can't see the display colors, and can only see the display reading scale.

Ped, am I reading/seeing that you can have all those steps from the
T154 display, for the DM02 motor/battery settings?
If so color me sold.........!

The only thing I don't like about the DM02 setup is....NO Throttle,
an really want one, I consider it a life saver for the way I ride.....yrmv
Tia
 
The only thing I don't like about the DM02 setup is....NO Throttle,
an really want one, I consider it a life saver for the way I ride.....yrmv
Tia
That display does not allow for a throttle, but the others do. The 135 can go wireless Bluetooth, just so the person you are riding by can hack your throttle and power level remotely! Both of my kids are colorblind. I should have picked up on that clue when my girlfriend's dad only wore brown clothing before I wed her. I just mixed three colors of nail polish to perfectly match a bike for touch up. I have extraordinary color perception and memory way out on the left of the curve. Claude Monet could see ultra-violet. I can't. Why is it that the first thing a person does with a new bike they are going to demo is rub the bottom of their shoe all over the top tube? It is like the lady who presses her thumb to bruise every nectarine in the pile just to pick one.
 
That display does not allow for a throttle, but the others do. The 135 can go wireless Bluetooth, just so the person you are riding by can hack your throttle and power level remotely! Both of my kids are colorblind. I should have picked up on that clue when my girlfriend's dad only wore brown clothing before I wed her. I just mixed three colors of nail polish to perfectly match a bike for touch up. I have extraordinary color perception and memory way out on the left of the curve. Claude Monet could see ultra-violet. I can't. Why is it that the first thing a person does with a new bike they are going to demo is rub the bottom of their shoe all over the top tube? It is like the lady who presses her thumb to bruise every nectarine in the pile just to pick one.
my night vision and peripheral vision used to be very good,the only thing that really bothered me was the real dark shades of green and blue if they were dirty I just assumed they were black and never gave it a second thought( used to lose that argument on closer inspection) I could see shadows cast by stars,used to go out on dark nights walkabout one night i perceived this huge dark thing standng in the field,a little scare at first,then what the crap it would have got me either way so I took the old Barlow out and stepped up to it( f fortunately it was a cedar tree) used to gather up a pack of dogs and go walkabout in the night-once I heard or didn't hear it a strange bellow behing the ridge,think it even shut the dogs up( that's right there is one or two around here- a friend spotted the "thing in dryrun gorge 10 ft tall and crossed the road in two steps) its a wonderful world!
 
Color blindness has an evolutionary advantage if about 1:12 hunters have it in a troupe. That one hunter is not thrown by color camouflage. That is why it perpetuates. Color blind solders were used in planes in WWII to spot enemy positions. Their filter worked to cut the noise of color.
 
Color blindness has an evolutionary advantage if about 1:12 hunters have it in a troupe. That one hunter is not thrown by color camouflage. That is why it perpetuates. Color blind solders were used in planes in WWII to spot enemy positions. Their filter worked to cut the noise of color.
Excellent didn't know that,when hunting one should always look for things out of the ordinary,for example horizontal lines( fastest way to pick out a motionless deer,camoflague doesn't have to be elaborate to work the basic monochrome beige,tan whatever it is works well on deer the two color scheme of a copperhead is extremely effective,stopped to take a break during right of way cutting session and I be darned if I didn't lay my right arm on a large copperhead when I reclined on the slope,I regret killing him,will never kill another snake,I get all different types of reptiles out of the road these days,the latest rescue in my ward was a small adult black rattlesnake,caught him in a cooler and daughter and I relocated the critter( like snakes more than rodents)even got bit once,another story.
 
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