Toseven DM02 500W Motor

[Gionnirocket]

On my most recent DM02 build the battery would show three bars and the display would show half-a-bar. I used this chart to help sync them. Then I had to refine it.
View attachment 196457

T154 E-bike Centre Control Panel - To7motor

This is a T 154 E-bike Centre Control Panel with a TFT colorful screen for ebike drive system , transparent silicon rubber button with LED back-light

to7motor.com

I wouldn't worry about the battery LED syncing with the display.
Personally.. I would set my desired LV cut off in the controller (39v seems safe enough as that's still a little over 22% on the average 18650 cell) and use that for 0%. Keeping in mind it should be a little higher than the LV cutoff on the battery BMS. Hopefully the BMS isn't set at an overly protective high voltage.
But then Wtf do I know

 

[PedalUma]

I could only show so much of that chart. Above are recommended high and low settings. When you go to the high setting and press Up and Down you come to where you can set the values for each 10% from your zero to 100. I went with 38-54.6V

 

[Gionnirocket]

I could only show so much of that chart. Above are recommended high and low settings. When you go to the high setting and press Up and Down you come to where you can set the values for each 10% from your zero to 100. I went with 38-54.6V

In one way that makes sense as the upper voltages are more efficient and drop slower. That said I've never used % and once you know your battery it's not hard to get a feeling for what's left by following the voltage.
Probably not what the typical end user wants though.

 

[PedalUma]

In one way that makes sense as the upper voltages are more efficient and drop slower. That said I've never used % and once you know your battery it's not hard to get a feeling for what's left by following the voltage.
Probably not what the typical end user wants though.

Imaging the front of this type of curve to be the charge cycle. Like pumping a 120 psi road bike tire, the front part of the curve represents the effort of charging cycle. It is easy to pump at first. Then gets steep to the peak. Where you need to really lay into the pump by the top, levels. Then just below the top to the right represents the discharge. It is strong at first then goes to a long tail of diminishing power. Ideally at the top levels they are relatively close in displayed percentage of battery charge. Then become further apart at the tail, so with a five bar set-up the bottom bar is maybe 30% longer that the top bar. The graphic displayed is not perfect, just an example of the species of curve and type of drop-off. If we just went with 1,2,3,4,5 in even increments, we would be way off 4 to five has almost nothing. .5 to 1 has so much more. That area needs to be adjusted to the actual cells and BMS. Ideally so each bar on the display has equal juice, so .5 to one has the same power as 4-5 at the display. With each bar having equal pull and ride time. What bike mechanics need to know! 90% is social.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Imaging the front of this type of curve to be the charge cycle. Like pumping a 120 psi road bike tire, the front part of the curve represents the effort of charging cycle. It is easy to pump at first. Then gets steep to the peak. Where you need to really lay into the pump by the top. Then just below the top to the right represents the discharge. It is strong at first then goes to a long tail of diminishing power. Ideally at the top levels they are relatively close in displayed percentage of battery charge. Then become further apart at the tail, so with a five bar set-up the bottom bar is maybe 30% longer that the top bar. The graphic displayed is not perfect, just an example of the species of curve and type of drop-off. If we just went with 1,2,3,4,5 in even increments, we would be way off. 4 to five has almost nothing. .5 to 1 has so much more. That area needs to be adjusted to the cells and BMS. Ideally so each bar on the display has equal juice, so .5 to one has the same power as 4-5 at the display.

View attachment 196466

It becomes complicated because all batteries aren't created equal. A 3cell/parallel will act different than a 5cell/parallel. A 18650 cell will be a little different then a 21700. And then there's the differences in chemistry and the batteries rated max current output. Then add in the difference in load like the difference between a 500w or a 1000w motor.
My display battery bars even change color from green - yellow - orange - red. But I pay no attention to bars, color or %.
Voltage I know and trust once I'm familiar with a battery. If you have the ability to map every 10% for a particular setup then I guess percentage could be accurate and helpful.. but I've never had an issue. I leave that to the systems like Bosch where everything is spec'd, consistent and calibration comes easier. But that really doesn't interest me.

 

[Nvreloader]

Guys
FWIW,
I have the 2 bikes, Wart Hog MD 750w and the Juggs 4 750w,
they are set up the same way/items and ridden the same way over the same roads/trails etc, the WH has 21700 battery's and the Juggs 4 has the 18650 battery's.

I can tell the difference between the 21700 and 18650 batts, the 21700 is 48v (CO @ 42v) and the 18650 is 52v (CO @ 45v) per displays, both are set to Volts.

99.5 % of the time, I use/ride Eco 1 for all pedaling, of the 9 steps, very seldom do I use the throttle, I consistently get longer mileage per charge from the 21700 batts, 80+ mpc, (I don't why), the 52v 18650 batts should be better? than the 48v? from what I read/heard.
My average speeds are 10>15 mph.

Since I am color blind, I can't see the display colors, and can only see the display reading scale.

Ped, am I reading/seeing that you can have all those steps from the
T154 display, for the DM02 motor/battery settings?
If so color me sold.........!

The only thing I don't like about the DM02 setup is....NO Throttle,
an really want one, I consider it a life saver for the way I ride.....yrmv
Tia

 

[PedalUma]

The only thing I don't like about the DM02 setup is....NO Throttle,
an really want one, I consider it a life saver for the way I ride.....yrmv
Tia

That display does not allow for a throttle, but the others do. The 135 can go wireless Bluetooth, just so the person you are riding by can hack your throttle and power level remotely! Both of my kids are colorblind. I should have picked up on that clue when my girlfriend's dad only wore brown clothing before I wed her. I just mixed three colors of nail polish to perfectly match a bike for touch up. I have extraordinary color perception and memory way out on the left of the curve. Claude Monet could see ultra-violet. I can't. Why is it that the first thing a person does with a new bike they are going to demo is rub the bottom of their shoe all over the top tube? It is like the lady who presses her thumb to bruise every nectarine in the pile just to pick one.

 

[PedalUma]

Color blindness has an evolutionary advantage if about 1:12 hunters have it in a troupe. That one hunter is not thrown by color camouflage. That is why it perpetuates. Color blind solders were used in planes in WWII to spot enemy positions. Their filter worked to cut the noise of color.