The infamous Motobecane HAL E-MTB. I bought one…

I finally identified an annoying little creaky sound that was so intermittent it was driving me nuts. It turned out to be the internally routed rear brake and seat post cables. Where they enter the down tube, it's loose enough for more cable to go inside as I steer from right to left. That excess cable inside the down tube occasionally hits the side making it sound like a creaky headset or something in the front fork.

I was thinking of putting micro-sized zip ties on the cables at the entry point to prevent excess going inside. Thoughts on this?
Maybe cut a small piece of soft foam from a dishwashing sponge and push it in
 
I hadn't noticed this before but there is now a $3999 eBoostPRO with 150mm of front and rear travel and integrated battery.




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Has anyone ridden this bike yet? Thinking of getting one.
 
Doesn't ship until end of May so not likely. If the integrated battery holds appeal I think the Haibike closeouts on sale (such as the Haibike SDURO FULLSEVEN LT 9.0 for $3499) are better value than anything from BD and less wait. You can probably get Crazy Lenny's to knock off another $250 if you don't care about LBS support.
 
Hi everyone, I decided to join this group after reading so many useful posts. Also, being 56 yo I felt like I was relating to many of the comments I was hearing.
So here's the big question: today I decided to sell my naturally aspired Yeti 575 that I had for almost 10 years as I decided to convert to an e-bike. After a lot of online research (ask my frustrated wife, she still thinks this is worse than porn), I narrowed down my choice to two bikes: HAL eBoost Elite Shimano motor (which has been reviewed here very positively) at $2,899 on that "unnamed" online seller, Bulls Aminga E TR1 Bosch motor ($2,499) on ebay and Haibike XDURO AllMntn 2.0 Yamaha motor at $2,999 on eBay.
While I tend to think that the HAL's components are overall better, I am also concerned about resale value.
Any insight? Thanks for any comments.
 
I definitely wouldn't buy on ebay. The XDURO 2.0 is on sale and you can get it from any dealer for the sales price. Not sure why you wouldn't buy locally and get LBS support? If you want to save sales tax Crazy Lenny's will probably discount it another $250+ if you call and negotiate (everyone here seems to have great experiences buying from them). I recall they were offering the 2.0 for $2500 a few months ago, not sure if that included shipping. The 9.0 LT might be worth looking at for $500 more if you're not opposed to the prior gen Bosch motor.
 
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Thanks Tomdav. The Haibike website doesn't have that bike on a Med size. That's why I looked on the internet. I will check Crazy Lenny.
Are you also implying that would be your choice among the three bikes? Any particular reason?
 
Hi everyone, I decided to join this group after reading so many useful posts. Also, being 56 yo I felt like I was relating to many of the comments I was hearing.
So here's the big question: today I decided to sell my naturally aspired Yeti 575 that I had for almost 10 years as I decided to convert to an e-bike. After a lot of online research (ask my frustrated wife, she still thinks this is worse than porn), I narrowed down my choice to two bikes: HAL eBoost Elite Shimano motor (which has been reviewed here very positively) at $2,899 on that "unnamed" online seller, Bulls Aminga E TR1 Bosch motor ($2,499) on ebay and Haibike XDURO AllMntn 2.0 Yamaha motor at $2,999 on eBay.
While I tend to think that the HAL's components are overall better, I am also concerned about resale value.
Any insight? Thanks for any comments.

All things considered, I would recommend the Shimano E7000 motor and battery found on the HAL eBoost. ;)
Hard to beat all of the features found on this model and ability to fine tune the performance with the eTube app.


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Thanks Flatsix, I do like the HAL eboost Elite. Only concern is resale value compared to Haibike or Bulls or Raleigh...
 
Thanks Tomdav. The Haibike website doesn't have that bike on a Med size. That's why I looked on the internet. I will check Crazy Lenny.
Are you also implying that would be your choice among the three bikes? Any particular reason?

I'm not recommending any one in particular. You seem to have done your research and know better what you want so trust your own instincts. Just saying if you go with a bike that Crazy Lenny's sells, give them a call. They will likely save you a bunch vs. other online retailers assuming they have your size in stock and you don't want to buy from LBS.
 
OK, too bad. The HAL eBoost Elite is sold out and they are not bringing anymore until (maybe) in August/September. So I went with my plan B and I just bought a Haibike Fullseven LT 7.0. CrazyLenny's had the last one and gave me a great price. I should receive the bike in a week or so. Maybe it doesn't have the same level components as the HAL Elite but I am happy.

 
OK, too bad. The HAL eBoost Elite is sold out and they are not bringing anymore until (maybe) in August/September. So I went with my plan B and I just bought a Haibike Fullseven LT 7.0. CrazyLenny's had the last one and gave me a great price. I should receive the bike in a week or so. Maybe it doesn't have the same level components as the HAL Elite but I am happy.


Congratulations on your new FullSeven 7.0... ;)
 

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Nope... none of the big three offer it.
FlastSix or anyone else. When looking at Crazy Lenny's the haibikes seem to mostly have 250w motors. I just bought my wife a Ride1Up with a 750w motor. I'm not a true mountain biker but am wondering why these bikes have smaller motors and if I could get one with a smaller motor and be happy with it? I would like a MTB with that can do hard road and mountain trails also. Can you give me some education?
 
FlastSix or anyone else. When looking at Crazy Lenny's the haibikes seem to mostly have 250w motors. I just bought my wife a Ride1Up with a 750w motor. I'm not a true mountain biker but am wondering why these bikes have smaller motors and if I could get one with a smaller motor and be happy with it? I would like a MTB with that can do hard road and mountain trails also. Can you give me some education?

Mid-drive motors are typically underrated by the manufacturers and usually output anywhere from 500 to 800 watts peak.
The key factor is that a mid-drive is directly connected to the drivetrain (crank, chain and rear cogs) to multiply the combined output using the mechanical advantage of the gear ratios.
A more detailed explanation from Electrek is provided below:


The single largest advantage that mid-motors have over hub motors is their gear ratio. They allow the rider to power the rear wheel via the same chain and gear set as the pedals, which means that a low gear can be selected for powering up steep hills or accelerating from a stop with massive torque. A mid-drive motor in low gear can climb steeper hills than a hub motor of similar power, and can climb hills for longer than a hub motor, which could overheat on long steep hill climbs.

A mid-drive motor is also usually smaller and lighter than a hub motor of similar power. Bafang recently debuted a new line of mid-drive motors for racing bikes that weigh only 5 lbs (2.3 kg). Smaller and lighter mid-drive motors are often stealthier because they can be incorporated directly into the bicycle’s frame. Many people don’t even realize that a mid-motor bike is an electric bike just by looking at it. hanging a tire on a mid-drive motor e-bike is much easier, since you don’t have a heavy hub motor to deal with. You just change it out like on a normal pedal bike. Plus, since you can use normal bicycle wheels, you have the freedom to use any wheels, tires and cassettes that you wish.

Lastly, mid-drive motors allow the use of true torque sensors for pedal assist systems, which regulate the motor power based on how hard you push on the pedals as measured at the crank. Hub motors often rely on cadence sensors for pedal assist, which only regulate motor speed based on pedal speed, and can cause jerky or awkward motor timing, especially when hill climbing or moving the bicycle around obstacles.
 
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Mid-drive motors are typically underrated by the manufacturers and usually output anywhere from 500 to 800 watts peak.
The key factor is that a mid-drive is directly connected to the crank, chain and rear cogs to multiply the combined output with the mechanical advantage of the gear ratios.
A more detailed explanation from Electrek is provided below:


The single largest advantage that mid-motors have over hub motors is their gear ratio. They allow the rider to power the rear wheel via the same chain and gear set as the pedals, which means that a low gear can be selected for powering up steep hills or accelerating from a stop with massive torque. A mid-drive motor in low gear can climb steeper hills than a hub motor of similar power, and can climb hills for longer than a hub motor, which could overheat on long steep hill climbs.

A mid-drive motor is also usually smaller and lighter than a hub motor of similar power. Bafang recently debuted a new line of mid-drive motors for racing bikes that weigh only 5 lbs (2.3 kg). Smaller and lighter mid-drive motors are often stealthier because they can be incorporated directly into the bicycle’s frame. Many people don’t even realize that a mid-motor bike is an electric bike just by looking at it. hanging a tire on a mid-drive motor e-bike is much easier, since you don’t have a heavy hub motor to deal with. You just change it out like on a normal pedal bike. Plus, since you can use normal bicycle wheels, you have the freedom to use any wheels, tires and cassettes that you wish.

Lastly, mid-drive motors allow the use of true torque sensors for pedal assist systems, which regulate the motor power based on how hard you push on the pedals as measured at the crank. Hub motors often rely on cadence sensors for pedal assist, which only regulate motor speed based on pedal speed, and can cause jerky or awkward motor timing, especially when hill climbing or moving the bicycle around obstacles.
FlatSix, thank you brother. Why are the haibikes (which look awesome, also the Motobecane Hal) using what looks to me like small motors? Great ariticle you suggested BTW.
 
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I reviewed the new Hal eboost team vs the Hal eboost pro that I have. I would still go with the pro over the team I bought for many reasons. The external battery on the pro is far easier to change than the internal battery. The team has a 12 speed rear cog (expensive parts) and not worth it on an ebike. I like the 11 speed shimano because it is very cheap to upgrade to Di2 electronic shifting and it integrates very easily with the steps motor and battery (see my earlier post on this thread). Once you go to electronic shifting you cannot go back- precise shifts every time, fast shifting through all the cogs, easy electronic setup with microajustments, and the cog you are in shows up on the display. Furthermore, the 11 speed shimano is the same as the 11 speed sram. I installed a sram xdr hub which allowed me to install a 9-46t rear cog, vs the original 11-46t (on the shimano the smallest cog is 11 vs 9 on the sram xdr). The new 9 and 10 cogs are awesome when riding flat trails. I do not have to pedal fast to reach the 20mph limit. I also installed a set of 40mm rims that I had on another bike. The 2.8 tires look far better on the 40mm rims vs the original 29, not so rounded. Also with the rims, ethirteen 9-46t rear cog, tubless and 165mm hollowtech cranks I got the bikes weight down to below 45 pounds, which is nice and I notice the difference. Last two points- the 3.0 high roller tires on the team bike are heavy and take far more energy than the 2.8 Rekkon tires- I tried them both on another non ebike mtb I have and there is a very noticable difference in the peddaling effort. The other point is that I like the rear suspension on the pro better than the team and it has shorter chain stay. The pro bike is so much fun. For the money there is nothing close.
 
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Billy Kidd.. as you can read earlier in this thread I have the Elite version. Absolutely an awesome setup. The E7000 has more power than you will need unless you are racing against higher powered ebikes going uphill. If you are a mountain biker, you’ll want to stick with the Class I ebikes. They are allowed anywhere an unpowered bike is unless specifically restricted. Here in CA, that mean the trail authority has to specifically exclude ebikes, the term motorized vehicles doesn’t cut it. More trails are opening up as the haters realize the benefits of more rider support. I’ve seen the deals on the 2019 Haibikes but they seem to be all extra large. I rode one during my ebike quest. The 2019’s have the previous motor with the proprietary small chainring and the guide sprocket. Motobecane uses off the shelf products that are probably easier to replace down the line. Everyone I’ve talked who owns a Haibike, loves it. Then again, everyone I’ve talked to who owns an E-MOUNTAINBIKE bike loves it. Me included.
 
Billy Kidd.. as you can read earlier in this thread I have the Elite version. Absolutely an awesome setup. The E7000 has more power than you will need unless you are racing against higher powered ebikes going uphill. If you are a mountain biker, you’ll want to stick with the Class I ebikes. They are allowed anywhere an unpowered bike is unless specifically restricted. Here in CA, that mean the trail authority has to specifically exclude ebikes, the term motorized vehicles doesn’t cut it. More trails are opening up as the haters realize the benefits of more rider support. I’ve seen the deals on the 2019 Haibikes but they seem to be all extra large. I rode one during my ebike quest. The 2019’s have the previous motor with the proprietary small chainring and the guide sprocket. Motobecane uses off the shelf products that are probably easier to replace down the line. Everyone I’ve talked who owns a Haibike, loves it. Then again, everyone I’ve talked to who owns an E-MOUNTAINBIKE bike loves it. Me included.
Hey JackNCA. Thank you very much for your input and thanks to all the folks that take time to share their experience and perspectives. You are truly helping those of us who are sort of "outside looking in" if you will.
 
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