I'd actually qualify that and say that optimum efficiency is around 12-14mph. Beyond that you are using your electrons to push air more than you are using them to push you and the bike.Battery range goes down exponentially above 20mph. The aerodynamics of the human body are not good.
but depending on the bike I dont even need a motor at that speed. on our tandem on group rides I turn the motor off at that speed.I'd actually qualify that and say that optimum efficiency is around 12-14mph. Beyond that you are using your electrons to push air more than you are using them to push you and the bike.
I'd add that a LOT of rookie riders emphasize how fast they can go when they first get that new bike. It's only later, after riding a few hundred miles, that many realize it's not so much about how fast the bike will go, it's usually more about how FAR it will go! THAT'S when they figure out slowing down can/will dramatically increase the "how far". So agreed, the low teens is a good balance of time vs. distance, with the note that if you aren't in a hurry, a little slower is often even more efficient (like 10-12mph).I'd actually qualify that and say that optimum efficiency is around 12-14mph. Beyond that you are using your electrons to push air more than you are using them to push you and the bike.
It is not a moderate effort. 180 W leg power of yours is a significant effortWith moderate pedaling effort (16 calories/mile)
That's almost double my cal/mile. I don't have a heart monitor but it doesn't seem like it goes up noticeably when I'm riding with this 16 cal/mile effort.16 calries per mile is maybe average 120 watts or less on the ride. I just did 140 watts average on my 8.5 mile ride and burned 225 calories thats about 28 calories and a average heart rate of only 107.. but thats on my commute with a lot of stops and starts. my heart rate drops a lot on all those stops.
I have a HRM and a watt meter so I know how much I am putting out. usually my Nyon display agrees with the garmin on calories burned. without a watt meter its pretty much anything. if I use my apple watch it will give me almost double the calories burned. I dont think anyone really knows how many calories you actually burn. my watt meter and heart rate are the only important factors. I dont get as high of a watt average on my trek as it I do my on my bulls it would be around 150 watts 250 calories and maybe 130hr.That's almost double my cal/mile. I don't have a heart monitor but it doesn't seem like it goes up noticeably when I'm riding with this 16 cal/mile effort.
What was your average speed on that ride?
I really do not want to analyse it. It does not help anyone just to convert the kcal to Wh because there also is the efficiency of the human body which is 20-25% depending on the assumption. Also, the Mission Control figures are not comprehensive.1 Wh = 0.86 Kcak (kilo calories and calories are used interchangeably at least here in USA). 16 cal/mile = 18.6 Wh/mile. My 6 mile test loop = 112 watt hours from my effort. Battery supplied 36 Wh. Mission Control says that was 195% support. Don't have any idea how it calculates that. Anyone?
Calories and Wh are energy terms, watts is a measure of power, an instantaneous value as is horsepower. At average 10.5 mph, 6 miles takes 0.57 hours so my average leg output was 196 watts.
https://www.verywellfit.com/walking...887154#toc-calories-at-a-typical-walking-pace says a 180# person walking normally burns 96 cal per hour. My bike exercise noted above would give 168 cal/hour or 175% of normal walking effort. That seems about right. I could walk for 2-3 hours easily but I never could keep up the 16 cal/mile pedaling for nearly that long.
It's raining here today but tomorrow I hope to try a much longer 15-20 mile ride and record the same data. The more I dig into this the more curious I get.
I built a couple of electric boats and now drive a Tesla so I've looked into range vs speed quite a bit. The E bike is an even more complex situation with me and the battery both supplying power. We have been talking about battery range but I want to learn more about my body's range too.
NERD ALERT: A while back, I posted graphs of the 3 main resistances in cycling as fractions of the total resistance encountered at a given ground speed Vg. These 3 main relative resistances areWind resistance is roughly based on the square of your speed. This means if you double your speed the wind resistance goes up 4 times. Triple your speed and wind resistance goes up 9 times.
You seem to have forgotten the fourth resistance Jeremy, which is the kinetic energy loss on stopping/restarting the ride.NERD ALERT: A while back, I posted graphs of the 3 main resistances in cycling as fractions of the total resistance encountered at a given ground speed Vg. These 3 main relative resistances are
Qa = (air resistance) / (total resistance)
Qs = (slope resistance) / (total resistance)
Qr = (rolling resistance) / (total resistance)
The input parameters (from Wilson & Schmidt, Bicycling Science, 2020) were those for a 65 lb commuter-ish ebike in 4 different smooth-pavement scenarios:
A. No grade, no wind
B. No grade, 10 mph headwind
C. 5% grade, no wind
D. 5% grade, 10 mph headwind
For a given ground speed and total weight (bike + rider), the calculated resistances are the same with or without a motor. A motor and its added structural requirements add both weight and power. Higher ground speed always results in higher Qa for the simple reason that slope and rolling resistances depend on total weight, not on speed.
By following the relative resistances through Scenarios A-D, you can get a feel for what you're fighting under some common riding conditions. One useful way to do this is to focus on the crossover speed at which air resistance reaches 50% of total resistance — i.e., where Qa = 50%.
At any given moment, the most effective way to conserve battery or muscles or both will depend in part on whether you’re above or below crossover speed.