Sometimes you feel like a mid, sometimes you don't....

Yes, I do now. But I'd been away from cycling for almost 25 years when my chain broke 3 years ago and didn't know about quick links then.

Question is, do you need to replace the quick links you carry when you change chain brands or models — say, from a 12-speed Shimano to a 12-speed SRAM?
yes they are different. But those are two differnt drive trains. You can swap Shimano and KMC chain parts. I have the 11 speed linkglde setup and you can't reuse the quick links on it. if I have to take a chain off I have to use another quick link. plus they are a real bear to close it takes a lot of force. regular quick links are good for the life of the chain.
 
Please note, I said "for some". There is always a chance of failure, no matter how small, with any moving part.
YMMV.
yes but I am saying its kind of a boogyman thing going on. or as my dogs would say, look a squirrel when there is none. its a lousy argument. The weakest parts of all ebikes are the electronics if you have decent components and do maintence then its not a real issue. But Hub drive bikes are usually the ones with cheap components.
 
But Hub drive bikes are usually the ones with cheap components.
Not Grin, though.
The All-Axle Hub motor ain't cheap, nor their Phaserunner controller.
Though top shelf ebike stuff. Easy to get into the controller to set parameters, and what's not to like about a powerful lighter weight direct-drive hubmotor (I love regenerative braking).
 
Not Grin, though.
The All-Axle Hub motor ain't cheap, nor their Phaserunner controller.
Though top shelf ebike stuff. Easy to get into the controller to set parameters, and what's not to like about a powerful lighter weight direct-drive hubmotor (I love regenerative braking).
yep but 99.99% of ebikes don't have grin. if I had to go that way, that's what I would buy. One tandem company uses them for their retrofitting.
 
yep but 99.99% of ebikes don't have grin. if I had to go that way, that's what I would buy. One tandem company uses them for their retrofitting.
My Disc Trucker has a Grin GMAC kit on it. Not a single component on that bike could be considered cheap or low quality. I built it up from a frame like you just did (I went with black cable housing so it looks better, though :)). I probably have $4000-$5000 invested in it. Hub motors have a bad rep because of the many cheap Chinese junk bikes you can buy on Walmart.com and Amazon. It seems like the big name brand manufacturers have standardized on mid-drives, but quality hub drive bikes do exist.
 
My Disc Trucker has a Grin GMAC kit on it. Not a single component on that bike could be considered cheap or low quality. I built it up from a frame like you just did (I went with black cable housing so it looks better, though :)). I probably have $4000-$5000 invested in it. Hub motors have a bad rep because of the many cheap Chinese junk bikes you can buy on Walmart.com and Amazon. It seems like the big name brand manufacturers have standardized on mid-drives, but quality hub drive bikes do exist.
man so much. That's why I dropepd e bieks from my commute. I wear them out too fast. my trek was bad enough on sale for 3900.00 our tandem we got on sale for 3700, but now 5 years later it is over 8000.00
 
man so much. That's why I dropepd e bieks from my commute. I wear them out too fast. my trek was bad enough on sale for 3900.00 our tandem we got on sale for 3700, but now 5 years later it is over 8000.00
It's always more to build from a frame than buy a complete bike. I knew what I was signing up for when I started the project.
 
Hub motors have a bad rep because of the many cheap Chinese junk bikes you can buy on Walmart.com and Amazon. It seems like the big name brand manufacturers have standardized on mid-drives, but quality hub drive bikes do exist.
My Specialized Vado SL 1 mid-drive cost almost 3 times as much as my wife's Velotric Breeze hub-drive.

20250507_152239.jpg

The SL's a masterpiece, but the blue Breeze is far from junk. We'll see how it holds up, but at 10 months in, I'm still pretty impressed with the joy and value the Breeze delivers.

The important thing is that I no longer have to ask twice to get her to ride with me. That's worth a lot by itself.
 
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It's always more to build from a frame than buy a complete bike. I knew what I was signing up for when I started the project.
Not so bad for me as I had my doner bike. But I had to replace the brakes as they were shot. I don't think I spent the 2k on the full bike costs, but I have a hell of a lot better components on it. and would not have come with the cool blue housing.
 
My Specialized Vado SL 1 mid-drive cost almost 3 times as much as my wife's Velotric Breeze hub-drive.


The SL's a masterpiece, but the blue Breeze is far from junk. We'll see how it holds up, but at 10 months in, I'm still pretty impressed with the joy and value the Breeze delivers.

The important thing is that I don't have to ask twice now to get her to ride with me. That's worth a lot by itself.
yep my wife loves riding the tandem. She is blind so she does not have as much of a choice. but as much as I ride ebikes not super cost-effective.
 
Not so bad for me as I had my doner bike. But I had to replace the brakes as they were shot. I don't think I spent the 2k on the full bike costs, but I have a hell of a lot better components on it. and would not have come with the cool blue housing.
The bike without the Grin kit was probably closer to $3K. Still $2K is not bad at all for the complete bike if you can ignore the gaudy blue cable housing.
 
yes but I am saying its kind of a boogyman thing going on. or as my dogs would say, look a squirrel when there is none. its a lousy argument. The weakest parts of all ebikes are the electronics if you have decent components and do maintence then its not a real issue. But Hub drive bikes are usually the ones with cheap components.
All this talk about throttles as a backup for component failure reminds me that my daughter's bike stopped working one day and she had to pedal the heavy thing home from school along with her 30lb backpack.

Turned out the failure was the throttle itself. Once I disconnected it, the bike had full PAS again. Took her a few days to adjust to shifting gears more instead of goosing the throttle to get up the steeper hills on her commute.

Maybe I should have added a second throttle as a backup for the first? Or would that just double the chances of a failure ...
 
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