Criteria: Mid-Drive, Belt Drive, Class 3—what bike do you pick?

[RobbieH]

This is the alt frame battery location I think would work well.

I read that the Ananda motor also has nice torque. Rise & Muller make models with a top tube battery.

 

[Doggyman1202]

My display mount is holding up but maybe I should expect otherwise? My seller had the light taken off or not installed and omitted the fenders. He had it delivered too an assembling shop. I've bought/put fenders back on it. Since I don't ride big hills I've thought of installing a slightly larger chainring and longer belt for on-street riding but it's the smaller amount of my riding time.

I would not worry too much at all about the display. It's a minor annoyance and it doesn't move very much. I also tend to ride on rougher roads and gravel so my riding locations are conducive to a lot of shake, rattle and roll. The front light, on the other hand, does drive me a little nuts. I'd like to remove it and replace it with a decent after market light, but I do not see a way to detach it cleanly given the internal wiring.

Personally, I have no interest in messing with the chainring and belt. Clearly, a lot of thought went into engineering the super riding characteristics of the Current and I'm from the "if-it-ain't-broke-don't fix-it" school. In other respects the Current could do with a little refresh. In addition to the mounting bug-a-boos I mentioned, newer bikes in this price range have beefier batteries, and while I'm glad I purchased the extender battery, it's clear the design was a retrofit. I prefer the extender on my Omega as it draws current in alternating increments from each battery, so the integration feels seemless. With the Current I'm always watching to make sure the extender kicks in. (It does).

Also, while I actually like the no-nonsense and easy-to-read display on the Current, newer bikes have gone to slicker color displays (although not necessarily better. A friend had a recent incarnation Aventon which was conspicuously missing an on-the-fly trip odometer so he returned the bike).

I also really love the mid step design of the Current, which for my aging bones, is a perfect compromise style frame. I can understand why some prefer a pure step through or step over though.

 

[RobbieH]

I would not worry too much at all about the display. It's a minor annoyance and it doesn't move very much. I also tend to ride on rougher roads and gravel so my riding locations are conducive to a lot of shake, rattle and roll. The front light, on the other hand, does drive me a little nuts. I'd like to remove it and replace it with a decent after market light, but I do not see a way to detach it cleanly given the internal wiring.

Personally, I have no interest in messing with the chainring and belt. Clearly, a lot of thought went into engineering the super riding characteristics of the Current and I'm from the "if-it-ain't-broke-don't fix-it" school. In other respects the Current could do with a little refresh. In addition to the mounting bug-a-boos I mentioned, newer bikes in this price range have beefier batteries, and while I'm glad I purchased the extender battery, it's clear the design was a retrofit. I prefer the extender on my Omega as it draws current in alternating increments from each battery, so the integration feels seemless. With the Current I'm always watching to make sure the extender kicks in. (It does).

Also, while I actually like the no-nonsense and easy-to-read display on the Current, newer bikes have gone to slicker color displays (although not necessarily better. A friend had a recent incarnation Aventon which was conspicuously missing an on-demand trip odometer so he returned the bike).

I also really love the mid step design of the Current, which for my aging bones, is a perfect compromise style frame. I can understand why some prefer a pure step through or step over though.

Yea, I can't really see enough benefit to mess with the chainring and belt. I'll buy a Wired or something if I want to really go faster. I don't have any concern with how the Aux. batt. functions but it would seem better to always drain from both instead of tube then the Aux as the Aux will get less use over time. Not ideal. You should be able to change the front light as long as you match the voltage, Just put a meter on the existing light to learn it's voltage and find any replacement light of the same voltage that you can mount. Just stick to LED's so as to not draw much current. Splice the new light into the existing wires.