On the subject of forks and headsets. May have posted this in the past, but since I don't have a head set press to press in headset cups, a threaded rod with some nuts and washers will do it, A lot cheaper than a Park tool,

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Doesn't hurt to sand the cups with emory cloth to make them a little thinner.,
 
I used a homemade press like that for years. Even when the cups and frame tubes are greased, starting the cups perfectly straight required a lot of fiddling and repositioning of the rod. It is important to make sure that the cup is going in straight. I dealt with it on steel frames, but when I started to work on carbon frames, I bought the Bike Hand press and modified a Wheels Manufacturing stepped drift kit to fit it (see my reply somewhere up in this thread). If the drift fits tightly on the press rod, and the drift fits tightly in the bearing cup, the cup will go in straight every time. No added pressure on a carbon bottom bracket shell from a misaligned cup.
 
,..a threaded rod with some nuts and washers will do it,

I used a homemade press like that for years.


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I remember swapping out the handlebars on my old POS mountain bike so I could sit up straight without leaning over.

I had never seen a threadless steerer tube before, and there was no star nut.
I had no idea how the hell I was supposed to snug up the steering, so I ended up making that same tool you guys made.

The threaded rod went through the steerer tube and the top of the steering stem, so I could tighten everything up.


I'm especially proud of my specially designed, custom built saddle. 😁

Screenshot_20260402_090229_Gallery.jpg
 
On the subject of forks and headsets. May have posted this in the past, but since I don't have a head set press to press in headset cups, a threaded rod with some nuts and washers will do it, A lot cheaper than a Park tool,

View attachment 208028

Doesn't hurt to sand the cups with emory cloth to make them a little thinner.,
I've been doing the same up until now and it's worked well for me.
That said and agreeing with @stompandgo's comment above.. I just picked this up on sale for less than $10 delivered.
Screenshot_20260402_111311_Chrome.jpg
I came across this when searching for an inexpensive bearing press... and since that worked well I figured why not.
I'm not happy with promoting cheap Chinese tools and have mostly purchased high quality tools in the past but when you only need to use something maybe a handful of times, I can't justify buying a Park Tool that's 10x the price in this case.
Seems CNC milling is common and dirt cheap in China these days. Haven't used it yet but the finish on all parts is neat and it fits the cups perfectly.
 
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I've been doing the same up until now and it's worked well for me.
That said and agreeing with @stompandgo's comment above.. I just picked this up on sale for less than $10 delivered.
View attachment 208033
I came across this when searching for an inexpensive bearing press... and since that worked well I figured why not.
I'm not happy with promoting cheap Chinese tools and have mostly purchased high quality tools in the past but when you only need to use something maybe a handful of times, I can't justify buying a Park Tool that's 10x the price in this case.
Seems CNC milling is common and dirt cheap in China these days. Haven't used it yet but the finish on all parts is neat and it fits the cups perfectly.
I agree. Most of my tools are Park or equivalent quality, but I bought a cheap headset press. I have only used it a handful of times since I bought it about ten years ago. It gets the job done.
 
On the subject of forks and headsets. May have posted this in the past, but since I don't have a head set press to press in headset cups, a threaded rod with some nuts and washers will do it, A lot cheaper than a Park tool,

View attachment 208028

Doesn't hurt to sand the cups with emory cloth to make them a little thinner.,
Sometimes the BCD is not quite right for a wheel, so I use something similar to expand the dropouts slightly or bring them in a little. It is best with steel frames. Aluminum can't move much.
 
Sometimes the BCD is not quite right for a wheel, so I use something similar to expand the dropouts slightly or bring them in a little. It is best with steel frames. Aluminum can't move much.

I never thought of that 🤔

I wonder if I would have thought of that if I had to change a BDC?

Now I wonder if I'll remember if I ever have to change a BDC in the future 🤔

Fricken Vado.
Sometimes I need to check my ID to find out what my name is.😁
 
I finished and delivered by train the fastest most capable bike I have ever touched. It is a Marin Kentfield 3 with the same geo and group sets as a Creo gravel. But it has 15 power torque sensor levels and up to 864W of pull on an 11-50 ten to 42 offset ring. The external battery is swappable/interchangeable and 150 variables are end user programmable. All wires are through frame. The starter bike was $899. It is so smooth, quiet, and fast. It will chase down any Creo and surpass it. No Lycra required.
Tools tip: to remove grips, slide a 2mm tool down the grip, insert gin or whatever alcohol or water in the gap after laying the bike down. Hydrostatic pressure will allow them to twist and be pulled when the tool is removed.
Click on the image and use Lens AI to ask about the Kentfield 3 with a DM02 and do some probing.
 

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I've been doing the same up until now and it's worked well for me.
That said and agreeing with @stompandgo's comment above.. I just picked this up on sale for less than $10 delivered.
View attachment 208033
I came across this when searching for an inexpensive bearing press... and since that worked well I figured why not.
I'm not happy with promoting cheap Chinese tools and have mostly purchased high quality tools in the past but when you only need to use something maybe a handful of times, I can't justify buying a Park Tool that's 10x the price in this case.
Seems CNC milling is common and dirt cheap in China these days. Haven't used it yet but the finish on all parts is neat and it fits the cups perfectly.

$10 Tool worked like a charm and the cups went in straight/true without fuss.

Screenshot_20260403_163242_Photos.jpg
 
I came across a new one today. A guy has an autistic adult son who is partly developmentally disabled. He also has the testosterone of a twenty-year-old. He has a talent for breaking stuff. Three weeks of riding a new eBike, it was totally trashed and looked a decade old. One problem was the freewheel. The internal ratchet pauls were gone. There is no way to screw it off. It just spins. The solution is he will angle grind three flat sides on it. Then drill and tap. He will be able to screw in pins to the exact depth needed to then screw it off.
 
I made a Coke Bottle Bong,..

It works pretty good !! 👍
Scientists in Thailand and Wisconsin have found that it doesn't work pretty good.


By 1602, smoking had a bad reputation in England. It stank and caused disease. That year, Swamp Yankees on Cape Cod let the Reverend John Brereton smoke with them. He said their tobacco was way better than London tobacco. It was shoestring tobacco, which wouldn't work in a cheap clay pipe. To make good pipes, Yankees imported stone from mines in Ohio and Minnesota.

In 1964, the US Surgeon General reported that cigarettes shortened lives. He also reported that pipe smokers lived longer than those who had never smoked. Danish research with a smoking machine showed why. Health damage comes from partial combustion of volatile chemicals in tobacco. Their machine picked up lots from cigarettes, none from a pipe.

They found that heat in the pipe bowl vaporized volatiles so that the machine could draw them off before the flame front arrived. That left charcoal to support combustion.

It doesn’t work that well for a human smoker because drawing from a bowl that hot would scald a smoker’s mouth. The European clay pipe was originally to smoke petals that didn’t require high temperatures. However, in King James’ time, some Englishmen were smoking shoestring tobacco, which grows anywhere. He outlawed pipes not made to his specifications. The flue of a flower pipe was 3.6mm in diameter. Monarchs kept reducing the specified diameter. By the time of the American Revolution, it was only 1.6mm. The cooling capacity of a pipe stem depends on the volume of the flue. For a given length, a clay pipe stem now had only 20% of the cooling of a flower pipe. Less cooling meant the bowl had to smolder at a cooler temperature, producing little flavor and lots of pollution. Pipe smoking became so unpopular that US senators chewed and spat, instead.

Yankee pipe bowls were too hot to touch while smoking but could be held by long stems made of reeds or pithy wood. Stem bores were large for good cooling. The bowls could be thrown into the coals of a fire for cleaning.

My pipe, from about 1970, is bakelite with a bowl liner of pyrolytic graphite (developed for missile nose cones). Given enough days to dry between smokes, a briar pipe could partly compensate for the lack of cooling by absorbing moisture (latent heat). The bakelite pipe was unpopular because it wouldn't absorb moisture. Cleaning could easily damage the soft graphite liner, so caking got thick.

I added a length of 5/8" silicone heater hose between stem and mouthpiece. It cools 100 times better than a similar length of conventional pipe stem. I can run the bowl hot enough for clean distillation. The bowl gets too hot to touch, but the hose is a safe handle. The only condensate in the hose is a nice-smelling amber liquid: no tars. With a modern no-scratch scrub cloth, I can clean the bowl with soap and water. Not absorbing water, it's immediately ready to use.

pipe.jpeg
 
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The water isn't intended to filter out anything but it's purpose is to cool and add water vapor make things less harsh.
100% effective... Just ask Pooky!
pookie-new-jack-city.gif
 
The water isn't intended to filter out anything but it's purpose is to cool and add water vapor make things less harsh.
100% effective... Just ask Pooky!
Then you disagree with Marijuana Moment magazine.
"Conventional wisdom has long held that water filtration makes for a cleaner, less harmful consumption experience."
 
Yeah, I use it to cool the smoke, and it does actually waste some by turning the water brown.
I still don't waste as much because I don't cough as much and I can hold it for a few seconds before I cough it out.

I used to use a little stainless steel pipe that I made, and if I ran out and got desperate, I'd scrape the gooey tar out and smoke that.
It was always the harshest smoke that Burned the Hell outta my throat and I'd cough till my eyes and nose were running.

Fortunately, I grow enough weed now that I don't have to worry about wasting any, and there's No Way that I'm gonna drink my bong water.
That Shits Fricken Nasty!! 😁
 

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My $4 non-geared "pruner" from the dollar store actually works better.
A Lot Better !!!

I just bought the new updated version of the $4 pruner,..

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It Works Pretty Good 👍👌


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It works a little better than the old version (about 15 years old from the same Dollarama)
The handles are curved a bit so you can push better when you're trying to cut.

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