Schwalbe Johnny Watts (and other Schwalbe SUV tyres) User Club

gave up on the marathons they were just too harsh and slow on our tandem. t=yes they did not go flat. so I switched to tubeless and these guys. of course they cost even more but the ride is faster and smoother. they are a little noise though.

MARATHON ALMOTION​

www.schwalbetires.com

Marathon Almotion | RaceGuard | Black-Reflex | 28x1.50 | Addix | 11654230

THE STATE-OF-THE-ART TOURING TIRE. Incredibly multipurpose tread with the latest tire technology for ultimate riding performance and increased punctu…
www.schwalbetires.com www.schwalbetires.com
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I changed my Johnny Watt tyres last year following some damage caused to them.

I was using some Kevlar tyre liners, which left grooves in the carcass, exposing the casing.
2F09799E-BC3E-4B6E-98E6-91F02A7EACEA.jpeg


This also put similar grooves in the inner tube, which caused it to split open along the groove.
13D7249A-C118-477A-8381-12741442CBFD.jpeg


I changed over to the Marathon Plus MTB tyre which has a higher puncture protection rating.

Mrs DG was already using these on her Nevo3 and they had good reviews, plus look good.

DG…
 
I'm installing JW (original) tires on our 2 eBikes. Had Maxxis Chronicles before.
I'm in the 27.5x2.8 size. What tire pressure do you-all recommend for mostly on pavement use?
Tires are stamped 17-37psi. Should I start at 30psi - or higher/lower?

PS: Ordered them through Amazon via some UK dealer. Took months to come, but that was OK with me.

PPS: On 35mm rims, the actual width at 25psi is about 2.65", so they run small.
 
Also, can those who have been running JW's for a while comment on puncture protection? They (the originals) have a "DD" or "Double Defense" label from Schwalbe. How good is that? I've decided for now to not reinvest in Tannus Armour, but am using tubolite tubes. We mostly ride on-road now.
 
smorgasbord said:
Tires are stamped 17-37psi. Should I start at 30psi - or higher/lower?
Click to expand...
They will be happy with just 22-25 psi. Certainly do not go above 30 psi.
smorgasbord said:
They (the originals) have a "DD" or "Double Defense" label from Schwalbe. How good is that? I've decided for now to not reinvest in Tannus Armour, but am using tubolite tubes. We mostly ride on-road now.
Click to expand...
Catching a flat is always possible, regardless of the tyre/tube protection level. Any chance you could convert to tubeless? Tubeless worked very good for me with e-MTB. Going tubeless will make your wheels even more lightweight and it typically protects tyres against punctures. That is, small punctures are self-repairing, and there is a chance that even a bigger hole could heal if you gave the punctured tyre some time.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
They will be happy with just 22-25 psi. Certainly do not go above 30 psi.

Catching a flat is always possible, regardless of the tyre/tube protection level. Any chance you could convert to tubeless? Tubeless worked very good for me with e-MTB. Going tubeless will make your wheels even more lightweight and it typically protects tyres against punctures. That is, small punctures are self-repairing, and there is a chance that even a bigger hole could heal if you gave the punctured tyre some time.
Click to expand...
I probably could go tubeless, but I think tubeless requires a change every 6 months or so as the sealant loses its power. Many riders put on enough miles or swap tires out anyway, but my experience I keep the same tires for a few years.
 
smorgasbord said:
I probably could go tubeless, but I think tubeless requires a change every 6 months or so as the sealant loses its power. Many riders put on enough miles or swap tires out anyway, but my experience I keep the same tires for a few years.
Click to expand...
that was my fear too. but I used flatout and it wont dry out in 10 years so that problem is taken care of. plus once I got the valves tight enough my tires have not needed air.
it gets a bit expensive tires rim tape is about 25.000 good valves around 30.00 and sealant. plus its good to have a plug kit for the big holes. so its an investment. Plus it's good to have a compressor to set the bead. but both my bikes are so much nicer to ride now.
 
fooferdoggie said:
that was my fear too. but I used flatout and it wont dry out in 10 years so that problem is taken care of. plus once I got the valves tight enough my tires have not needed air.
it gets a bit expensive tires rim tape is about 25.000 good valves around 30.00 and sealant. plus its good to have a plug kit for the big holes. so its an investment. Plus it's good to have a compressor to set the bead. but both my bikes are so much nicer to ride now.
Click to expand...
The not needing air thing is true of a lot of tubeless setups if it doesn't get a puncture. Unless the temperature changes quite a bit the pressure should stay up with a lot of the different sealants on the market. If not you didn't quite get your tubeless setup right.
 
Nomad said:
The not needing air thing is true of a lot of tubeless setups if it doesn't get a puncture. Unless the temperature changes quite a bit the pressure should stay up with a lot of the different sealants on the market. If not you didn't quite get your tubeless setup right.
Click to expand...
but not having to change the sealant is a big one that would be such a hassle.
 
fooferdoggie said:
but not having to change the sealant is a big one that would be such a hassle.
Click to expand...
I wasn't discounting that it just some people say you have top off the air in a tubeless setup often get it right and you don't other than when you get a puncture and a little leaks out before it seal.
 
Nomad said:
I wasn't discounting that it just some people say you have top off the air in a tubeless setup often get it right and you don't other than when you get a puncture and a little leaks out before it seal.
Click to expand...
I had heard they tend to leak and I did not want to have to fill the tires even more. but I think it is the valve stems. they need to be really tight not to leak. mine killed to come loose too so I really tightened them and used locktite on them.
 
After about 500 miles riding in winter in Michigan on the Schwalbe 365, I am extremely pleased with the performance. The 365 traction on ice, snow, slush is amazing. The treads do not hold snow, even the wet sticky kind. Superior traction down to 10 degrees fahrenheit. So far it has handled all the conditions a Michigan winter can throw at it.
 
fooferdoggie said:
I had heard they tend to leak and I did not want to have to fill the tires even more. but I think it is the valve stems. they need to be really tight not to leak. mine killed to come loose too so I really tightened them and used locktite on them.
Click to expand...
A trick that works well is fill a bathtub with water stand the tire up and check each section for air bubbles after you've let it sit still for a moment. Take the valve cap off and fill the tub so the water sits over the valve some but not so much your cassette or hub get in the water if your tub can get that full.
 
@smorgasbord: I consulted my brother. He said you can safely ride your JW at 30 psi as long as you ride the asphalt only.
He did an improbable show today. Riding JW 365 (tubed) at 20 psi (and with full suspension), he sprinted on a forest cobblestone road... Awesome!
 
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