Makes sense, although another poster said the 365s were only marginally slower than Marathons, which are similar to the JWs. May not make that much difference for my use case, which is a mix of trail riding and country roads (paved) and greenways. I don't often ride in wet or super cold weather. I am sensitive to road noise and rolling resistance, as my current tires (arisun mt cronos) are very slow and noisy on paved surfaces, but excellent on the trails.
Schwalbe Johnny Watts (and other Schwalbe SUV tyres) User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
California Flash
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- USA
Update after 350 miles. Still very quiet. Tires are heavy, thus it takes more watts to get them rolling. The 365 weighs 1140 grams vs 990 grams for the Marathon E-plus. Said another way, the 365 is 15% heavier than the Marathon. One would think the 365 would be much less efficient than the Marathon based on the fact it is heavier along with a very aggresive tread pattern.
Some interesting statistics; In November 2021 over 16 rides on the Marathon E-plus, the average speed was 14.0 m.p.h. and the average battery range remaining was 28.94.
November 2022, over 12 rides on the Johnny Watts 365, the average speed was 13.68 miles per hour and the average battery range remaining was 28.64 miles. This data is from the Schwalbe Johnny Watts 365.
Granted there a lot of variables in this comparison. However, it certainly confirms that the Johnny Watts 365 is only .32 m.p.h. slower than the Marathon E-plus, and the battery remaining distance is, on average, only .3 miles greater than the 365.
It is also interesting to note that the data from the 365 comes from a battery that has 12 more months of usage than the data from the E-plus.
It appears that the 365 actually is more efficient than the E-plus, given that the data is from a battery that has 12 months more cycles/distance (+4,267 miles).
The 365 tire was purchased for riding in Michigan in the winter. It certainly will excel for winter usage along with little penalty for the aggressive tread pattern and more bulk.
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They replace a set of Smart Sam Actives that came on my CUBE Allroad and which I put 6,000 miles on.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
gave up on the marathons they were just too harsh and slow on our tandem. t=yes they did not go flat. so I switched to tubeless and these guys. of course they cost even more but the ride is faster and smoother. they are a little noise though.
www.schwalbetires.com
MARATHON ALMOTION
Marathon Almotion | RaceGuard | Black-Reflex | 28x1.50 | Addix | 11654230
THE STATE-OF-THE-ART TOURING TIRE. Incredibly multipurpose tread with the latest tire technology for ultimate riding performance and increased punctu…
www.schwalbetires.com
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
yes.
DiggyGun
Well-Known Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
- City
- Buckinghamshire
I changed my Johnny Watt tyres last year following some damage caused to them.
I was using some Kevlar tyre liners, which left grooves in the carcass, exposing the casing.
This also put similar grooves in the inner tube, which caused it to split open along the groove.
I changed over to the Marathon Plus MTB tyre which has a higher puncture protection rating.
Mrs DG was already using these on her Nevo3 and they had good reviews, plus look good.
DG…
I was using some Kevlar tyre liners, which left grooves in the carcass, exposing the casing.
This also put similar grooves in the inner tube, which caused it to split open along the groove.
I changed over to the Marathon Plus MTB tyre which has a higher puncture protection rating.
Mrs DG was already using these on her Nevo3 and they had good reviews, plus look good.
DG…
Flannel Guy
Active Member
- Region
- USA
Been riding on muddy trails for the first time with these tires after rain/freeze/thaw event - no bueno.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
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- Mazovia, PL
JW 365 are far better in such conditions. The original JWs become slippery at low temperatures.
smorgasbord
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- USA
I'm installing JW (original) tires on our 2 eBikes. Had Maxxis Chronicles before.
I'm in the 27.5x2.8 size. What tire pressure do you-all recommend for mostly on pavement use?
Tires are stamped 17-37psi. Should I start at 30psi - or higher/lower?
PS: Ordered them through Amazon via some UK dealer. Took months to come, but that was OK with me.
PPS: On 35mm rims, the actual width at 25psi is about 2.65", so they run small.
I'm in the 27.5x2.8 size. What tire pressure do you-all recommend for mostly on pavement use?
Tires are stamped 17-37psi. Should I start at 30psi - or higher/lower?
PS: Ordered them through Amazon via some UK dealer. Took months to come, but that was OK with me.
PPS: On 35mm rims, the actual width at 25psi is about 2.65", so they run small.
smorgasbord
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Also, can those who have been running JW's for a while comment on puncture protection? They (the originals) have a "DD" or "Double Defense" label from Schwalbe. How good is that? I've decided for now to not reinvest in Tannus Armour, but am using tubolite tubes. We mostly ride on-road now.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
They will be happy with just 22-25 psi. Certainly do not go above 30 psi.
Catching a flat is always possible, regardless of the tyre/tube protection level. Any chance you could convert to tubeless? Tubeless worked very good for me with e-MTB. Going tubeless will make your wheels even more lightweight and it typically protects tyres against punctures. That is, small punctures are self-repairing, and there is a chance that even a bigger hole could heal if you gave the punctured tyre some time.
smorgasbord
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- USA
I probably could go tubeless, but I think tubeless requires a change every 6 months or so as the sealant loses its power. Many riders put on enough miles or swap tires out anyway, but my experience I keep the same tires for a few years.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
that was my fear too. but I used flatout and it wont dry out in 10 years so that problem is taken care of. plus once I got the valves tight enough my tires have not needed air.
it gets a bit expensive tires rim tape is about 25.000 good valves around 30.00 and sealant. plus its good to have a plug kit for the big holes. so its an investment. Plus it's good to have a compressor to set the bead. but both my bikes are so much nicer to ride now.
The not needing air thing is true of a lot of tubeless setups if it doesn't get a puncture. Unless the temperature changes quite a bit the pressure should stay up with a lot of the different sealants on the market. If not you didn't quite get your tubeless setup right.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
but not having to change the sealant is a big one that would be such a hassle.
I wasn't discounting that it just some people say you have top off the air in a tubeless setup often get it right and you don't other than when you get a puncture and a little leaks out before it seal.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
I had heard they tend to leak and I did not want to have to fill the tires even more. but I think it is the valve stems. they need to be really tight not to leak. mine killed to come loose too so I really tightened them and used locktite on them.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
California Flash
Member
- Region
- USA
After about 500 miles riding in winter in Michigan on the Schwalbe 365, I am extremely pleased with the performance. The 365 traction on ice, snow, slush is amazing. The treads do not hold snow, even the wet sticky kind. Superior traction down to 10 degrees fahrenheit. So far it has handled all the conditions a Michigan winter can throw at it.
A trick that works well is fill a bathtub with water stand the tire up and check each section for air bubbles after you've let it sit still for a moment. Take the valve cap off and fill the tub so the water sits over the valve some but not so much your cassette or hub get in the water if your tub can get that full.
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