Replace drop with straight handlebar

todbar

Member
So due to back problems, looking to swap my Civante dropbars for straight ones...having trouble finding any available shifter and brake components to make this handlebar switch. I've seen they make some that work, but no availability for at least several months or indefinite. Anyone have ideas as to how I might be able to find what I need to do this? Thanks much....
 
Another option is to keep the drop bars, but use a riser stem to raise them up and put interrupter levers on the brakes to allow you to ride the tops more comfortably. These are Nitto Noodle bars. It is hard to tell from the picture, but the bars are slightly higher than the saddle. This is my Surly LHT and is very comfortable to ride.

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If you can fit brake levers and shifter from the Cross Core this will cut down of the cost outlay and you may be able to reuse your calipers.
You'll probably also need a different derailleur, handlebar, and grips.
Late last year I switched my Cannondale Topstone Neo Lefty 3's drop bar to a straight bar. Different bike, I know, but this is what I needed to change:
handlebar
grips
shifters
brake lever (I was able to use the Topstone's calipers.
derailleur
If I had it to do again I would have gone with the Archer electric shifter and kept my original derailleur.

Have you considered trading your bike in on a Cross Core?
 
Really like everything about the Civante.. anybody know what flat bar brake lever set is compatible with the tiagra hydraulic brakes?
 
Really like everything about the Civante.. anybody know what flat bar brake lever set is compatible with the tiagra hydraulic brakes?
I didn't realize that they were hydraulic. Shimano does sell an interrupter lever for their hydraulic road brakes. I am not sure what mountain levers would be compatible with their road calipers as I believe the reservoir size is smaller on the road brakes. Maybe that wouldn't matter. The shifters would still be cable actuated and you can use an adapter to change the pull ratio.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-NZ/product/component/grx-11-speed/BL-RX812-R.html
 
I would go the riser option and put on a wide riser/flare gravel bar such as the Soma Condor II, keeping the existing levers. Although you will need new, longer hoses and housings.
If you are set on a flat bar then just buy a new shifter and brake levers that are pre-bleed with new callipers attached with hoses of the correct length. You can find these on places such as Amazon or eBay. That is the easiest solution.
 
Unfortunately, need to go with something that allows me to sit even more upright than the riser/flare bars. So you're saying to get new calipers to go with the brake levers?
 
Unfortunately, need to go with something that allows me to sit even more upright than the riser/flare bars. So you're saying to get new calipers to go with the brake levers?
That is what Pedaluma recommended as the system is pre-bled and you don't need to mess with bleeding the brakes. The link I posted above indicates that people have had success using Shimano hydraulic road levers with Shimano MTB brakes and visa versa. Along the same lines, you could just replace the rear derailleur with a MTB derailleur also instead of using an adapter to make MTB shifters work with a road derailleur.
 
Unfortunately, need to go with something that allows me to sit even more upright than the riser/flare bars. So you're saying to get new calipers to go with the brake levers?
Yes. Typically new levers come with pre-bled hoses and calipers attached. It makes the job clean, quick and easy. No messing with the yucky hydraulic oil. It goes on fast.
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That is what Pedaluma recommended as the system is pre-bled and you don't need to mess with bleeding the brakes. The link I posted above indicates that people have had success using Shimano hydraulic road levers with Shimano MTB brakes and visa versa. Along the same lines, you could just replace the rear derailleur with a MTB derailleur also instead of using an adapter to make MTB shifters work with a road derailleur.
That's right. You can then use a long cage derailleur and a wider range cassette.
 
It looks like Shimano sells flat bar shifters for your road groupset. The part number SL-4703.

MTA: Brake levers too: BL-4700. Those won't work as they are cable actuated and not the hydraulic version. However, you should be able to use any Shimano hydraulic levers.
 
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Yes. Typically new levers come with pre-bled hoses and calipers attached. It makes the job clean, quick and easy. No messing with the yucky hydraulic oil. It goes on fast.
Shimano uses plain 'old mineral oil, so it's not a big deal. SRAM, on the other hand....
 
Thanks. ... to me it looks like the Bl -4700 isn't for hydraulic brakes... That's why I was trying to find one that is. ... Maybe I'm wrong
 
Shimano uses plain 'old mineral oil, so it's not a big deal. SRAM, on the other hand....
I am using DOT 5.1 on everything these days. The problem for me is getting the dissolved air out of the fluid. I find this makes a big difference. And it is not as easy as a video makes it look. That is like watching a cooking show where the food comes out perfect in no time at all.
@Mkaiju, also has the option of changing over to mechanical brakes now. Everyone says hydraulic is better but consider the upside to mechanical: 1) Less expensive up front; 2) Easy to install the correct length; 3) No bleeds ever; 4) No chance of vapor lock on a big hill; 5) Easy to adjust. If I were a bikepacker doing a ride down the Continental Divide I would want mechanical discs.
 
You are going to have to replace the whole hydraulic brake system for straight bars. I did a little research on this before I bought my Civante as I will eventually have to go that route as well as I get older in the next 2-3 years. They do make Tiagra straight bar shifters though. I would prefer if the Civante had mounting points for Caliper brakes as I prefer them as I can work on them myself. I do understand why they went with disc brakes as they have greater stopping power. Cantilever brakes would have worked well and they have great stopping power.

If you browse around different bike forums, some say that you can use straight bar hydraulic levers with road hydraulic disc brakes but the modulation will be somewhat different. It may be worth a try and if it does not work just replace the whole hydraulic break system to match the straight bar levers. Talk to your local bike shop if you have a good one that knows what it is doing with hydraulic disc brakes.

There are some options that you can try. You can use a stem extender like this-

And add an adjustable stem or a shorter stem with a 30-40 degree rise. I did this to my road bike after I had a cervical spine fusion due to a herniated disc. Ritchey makes a fairly light weight adjustable stem.


This one has a shorter reach of 80mm and is more adjustable with higher angles. It may be all you need

You will have to replace cables depending upon how high you raise the bars. I hope this helps.

One other thing, if you try a riser stem you can get a new handlebar with a short reach and short drop. I am buying a short reach 70mm and short drop bar for my new Civante and have added a shorter stem with a 35 degree rise. This will bring the brake levers closer to you and allow you to be more upright if paired with a stem rise and or adjustable stem.
Check out the Ritchey WCS Streem III alloy road bar. It is an aero bar like what's on the Civante.

If you do not know what reach and drop are see the pictures below

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Best of luck,

Larry
 
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Larry, thanks so much for sharing all this great research with me about what's involved to switch out the Civante bars... makes it clear what's needed. Regards - Tod
 
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