Can someone explain to me why the Stromer ebike even if the battery is half consumed can still reach the maximum speed and other ebikes such as the NCM for example, after the battery starts to consume both the maximum speed and the power decrease? What is so special to the Stromer controller? For example on my ebike when the battery is full, I reach 38-40kph, and when it is half consumed I can only reach 35-37kph with the 48v 21Ah battery.
Reention newly upgrade 48V 25Ah&36V 30Ah (505L) interchangeable for eBikes Surface 604,NCM,Rize,Magnum,Aventon
- Thread starter Jenny Mao
- Start date
Compared with the direct drive motor, geared motors excel in terms of portability, torque, resistance, battery lifespan and efficiency. So, if you do not have the ultimate pursuit of top speed and usually attach importance to the maintenance of your electric bike, a geared hub motor ebike is the best choice for you.
www.espinbikes.com
- On the contrary, the geared hub motor is much lighter and you can enjoy the cycling with ease.
- Top speed
To control the speed under the national standard, the rotor speed of the geared hub motor is reduced by its gear reduction system. So, the gearless hub motor has a higher top speed compared with gear hub motor.
Gear hub vs direct drive motor - A detailed comparison
Geared hub or direct drive, which is the most suitable for you? In this article, you can learn what a geared hub/direct drive motor is and the differences between them.
www.espinbikes.com
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I cannot speak to your Stromer bike specifically. But a device from Amazon like this one will accomplish the goal.
This particular device is NOT a good pick but I just searched up something quick, there's versions in sealed metal boxes with air fins and such that are more suitable. As your battery voltage sags, this device will boost it and deliver full voltage to the motor as if the battery was fresh. It does this at the cost of range and has a 8-10% power loss as heat but your bike will feel snappy and full of pep right up until it stops. Make sure to spec a device that can exceed your current requirements too.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I just bought one of those.
I didn't think of using in such a way.
That makes sense to me.
I wouldn't want to pull 20 amps through it though.
I bought it to convert my 48 volt battery to 12V or 5V to charge or run common 12V devices and as a USB power supply.
The Super 73 rx motor has the same size as the das-kit motor, only the peak power is 2000W, which tells me that it is just overvoltage. With my ebike I traveled 100km with a fairly short break in the summer when it was very hot and when I arrived home and I put my hand on the engine, it was very cold, not hot at all, and taking into account the fact that the display is unlocked and I can go 40kph. So the das-kit motor which is a rebranded MXUS is very durable and I am convinced that it can work at 2000W without any problem and without overheating. The NCM ebikes do not work with 52v batteries only because the controller does not support it, if you put them another controller can also work on 72v. And last but not least, let's not forget the fact that the stores sell us motors with a 250w label just to be legal when in fact the motors put out much more power.
So think that the Super 73 Rx has the same motor as yours that you have on the ebike but which is overloaded to 2000w peak power and has no problem. The companies are selling us bullshit, they use the same motors on different ebikes frames,and only they raise the prices very high. Just look at how much a Super 73 rx costs, almost €5k and the kit costs only a few hundred euros.
Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Aptos
Correct. The controller (and manufacturers firmware limits) dictates motor power (amperage). Voltage (and manufactures firmware limits) dictates speed.
On my Ride1Up 700 series, I replaced the controller and display (if replacing the controller, you should get it as a kit with a display so it’s sure to work). My bike now has 1200w peak. No heat issues. Just don’t try to push more than 30 amps and you should be fine. I think that is the normal bms rating for most stock ebike batteries. Anymore than that and you’ll start to be limited by the gauge wire coming from the motor and start generating excess heat. I have 16awg wire coming from my motor, so 25 amps is as high as I should go. Chart for reference indicates 22 amps, but that is a very conservative rating. I needed the extra umph for the hills in my area.
On my Ride1Up 700 series, I replaced the controller and display (if replacing the controller, you should get it as a kit with a display so it’s sure to work). My bike now has 1200w peak. No heat issues. Just don’t try to push more than 30 amps and you should be fine. I think that is the normal bms rating for most stock ebike batteries. Anymore than that and you’ll start to be limited by the gauge wire coming from the motor and start generating excess heat. I have 16awg wire coming from my motor, so 25 amps is as high as I should go. Chart for reference indicates 22 amps, but that is a very conservative rating. I needed the extra umph for the hills in my area.
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Couple notes regarding 52v and Das-Kit. I've used a 52v battery many times on my Moscow+ and my son's Amego/Moscow. Both handled it fine and his Moscow has an unrestricted display so it really uses the 52v and he can get well over 40km/hr and maintain it.
Also OVT if your boost converter looks like the one in the pic be slightly careful, that unit in the pic does not look capable of handling 1200w
Also OVT if your boost converter looks like the one in the pic be slightly careful, that unit in the pic does not look capable of handling 1200w
Yes, I also totally agree with you. Those who had problems were because they do not have unlocked displays and the voltage is set to 36v instead of 48v, and thank you for the answer about the DC-DC converter. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005249925637.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.6fb161d7ThHYD8&mp=1 What do you say about this power supply?I think it will work well. I see that the motherboard has many chips which gives the feeling of something professional.
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PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
Whenever I'm using cheap electronics, I never turn them up past half.
They tend to be over-rated and they burn out if you run them at max.
tomjasz
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Minnesnowta
I found another, 1500W 30A and 1800W 40A.
I'm into this discussion late, but if I understand what the goal is, it is to provide a constant voltage to the controller even as the battery discharges or sags as it is being used? The idea being the controller/motor would then respond consistently throughout the discharge cycle of the battery? If you do end up getting one, I would be curious to know how well it works.
