Very expensive! At that price you can buy a 52v battery.I Found Something !!
It's a MeanWell !!
It ain't cheap though,..
View attachment 155359
View attachment 155360
Very expensive! At that price you can buy a 52v battery.I Found Something !!
It's a MeanWell !!
It ain't cheap though,..
View attachment 155359
View attachment 155360
Correct! Let's hope that in the end we find the best solution for this and not a very expensive one. After the battery drops to 50v, you no longer have the same torque as before, and this interests me more than the speed, to be able to accelerate as quickly as possible at the green light. Even with the battery consumed 40%, I can still reach 37kph but the torque it feels like it is no longer as strong, especially when the voltage reaches 46.6v.I'm into this discussion late, but if I understand what the goal is, it is to provide a constant voltage to the controller even as the battery discharges or sags as it is being used? The idea being the controller/motor would then respond consistently throughout the discharge cycle of the battery? If you do end up getting one, I would be curious to know how well it works.
Yes, I also totally agree with you. Those who had problems were because they do not have unlocked displays and the voltage is set to 36v instead of 48v, and thank you for the answer about the DC-DC converter. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005249925637.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.6fb161d7ThHYD8&mp=1 What do you say about this power supply?I think it will work well. I see that the motherboard has many chips which gives the feeling of something professional. View attachment 155341I'm interested in having 54-55v all the time, I don't want to force more. Already after about 20km the voltage reaches 50-51v and when the battery is fully charged it shows 54.3v. When two lines go from the battery and I accelerate, the voltage drops somewhere around 46.6v, and when I don't move somewhere around 48.1v after about 40 or so km.View attachment 155347
This looks more capable for sure.View attachment 155358AP-D5060B High-power DC Boost Module Power Supply DC10.5V-60V input 1500W Max Boost Board for Large Electromechanical Equipment
It's not just a matter of losing peak torque availability, either:Correct! Let's hope that in the end we find the best solution for this and not a very expensive one. After the battery drops to 50v, you no longer have the same torque as before, and this interests me more than the speed, to be able to accelerate as quickly as possible at the green light. Even with the battery consumed 40%, I can still reach 37kph but the torque it feels like it is no longer as strong, especially when the voltage reaches 46.6v.
Also note that so long as the 52V battery's maximum charge voltage does not make the controller complain of over-voltage, a 48V controller with a 52V battery gets more MPH per watt because the 52V battery doesn't sag below the 48V system's optimum.Couple notes regarding 52v and Das-Kit. I've used a 52v battery many times on my Moscow+ and my son's Amego/Moscow. Both handled it fine and his Moscow has an unrestricted display so it really uses the 52v and he can get well over 40km/hr and maintain it.
Also OVT if your boost converter looks like the one in the pic be slightly careful, that unit in the pic does not look capable of handling 1200w
You're not comparing apples to apples. Cells can be priced anywhere from $1.00 to $3.00. A good builder will have certifications UN and or UL. That's THOUSANDS of dollars for each model sold.I have a question: Why do the Reention Dorado batteries cost almost twice as much as other batteries?? These are just two examples of much cheaper batteries.The Reention Dorado box costs under €100, the batteries cost another €200. So where does the rest of the money up to €500-600 go?
YIKES!!!! Where ever did you get this information? Actually a case is about $30 by small MOQ wholesale and it takes no more time and labor for me to build in a case or shrink wrap. FWIW I've configured Reention "Dolphin" packs, Hailong versions, and shrink wrapped in addition to 3 battery kits. (Vruzend, NESE Modules, and the awful bound to fail magnetic separator kits) I bought a dozen or so Reention battery meters that are hard to find for individuals. When found they sell for around $12-$15, I'M IN UNDER $3 EACH SHIPPED!! And the reseller had a decent profit margin.When you purchase Reention case based batteries you pay for the case and for the labor to assemble the battery into this particular case and that easily lifts the price twice just because of more labor comparing with simple case or no-case batteries. But if your bike uses Reention case battery you have no choice because of this is the only battery case will fit your bike. That's the price you pay for better fit, for better looking bike, for better user experience and for better safety
I'm glad that there are others like me who don't let themselves be fooled very easily. Because of too much convenience and too little lack of thinking, people end up paying a lot of money for anything.If you have patience, you can find the best things at the lowest prices on aliexpress/alibaba. Big stores get rich overnight because of people's naivety. They buy products for a few cents or a few euros, which they then sell at a premium of up to 10 or 100 times more expensive in Europe, for example.YIKES!!!! Where ever did you get this information? Actually a case is about $30 by small MOQ wholesale and it takes no more time and labor for me to build in a case or shrink wrap. FWIW I've configured Reention "Dolphin" packs, Hailong versions, and shrink wrapped in addition to 3 battery kits. (Vruzend, NESE Modules, and the awful bound to fail magnetic separator kits) I bought a dozen or so Reention battery meters that are hard to find for individuals. When found they sell for around $12-$15, I'M IN UNDER $3 EACH SHIPPED!! And the reseller had a decent profit margin.