Rear Wheel Removal Tip

[GMA52]

Looks like I have my answer as I am using tube tires

“
Muc-Off and FlatOut are different products used for different purposes:
Muc-Off is a brand of tubeless tire sealant, while FlatOut is a brand of tire sealant additive that can be used in a wide range of tires, including bicycles and cars. Muc-Off sealant is designed to be injected into a tubeless tire to seal punctures up to 6mm, whereas FlatOut is a fiber and filler-based sealant designed to last the life of the tire by forming a permanent plug at the puncture site. “

 

[PCeBiker]

Also, knew there is nothing harmed by turning bike upside down.

I found the easiest way to invert my e-bike was to lay it down, then walk around to the other side, grab the wheels and "roll" it up onto the seat and handlebars.
I just had to watch that nothing got crunched while "rolling" it over.

A strap or bungee cord around the wheel and top tube really helps to get it upside-down without falling over.

I noticed too that my e-bikes are really light on the front end when upside-down, and the handlebar stands lift off the ground when I removed the front wheel.

I've "crashed" my ebikes more than two dozen times, (fell over) including three times inside the house.
I almost broke my TV when my e-bike fell into it.

 

[PCeBiker]

Muc-Off sealant is designed to be injected into a tubeless tire to seal punctures up to 6mm, whereas FlatOut is a fiber and filler-based sealant designed to last the life of the tire by forming a permanent plug at the puncture site. “

Well that's good news.
I bought the right stuff then.
I've got innertubes.

I did know that Flat-Out doesn't dry out. Most of the other sealants dry out and need more added regularly.

I like the Flat-Out, set it and forget it, just like my waxed chain.

 

[GMA52]

Flat Out has Kevlar in it
Flat Out say’s works for both Tube and Tubeless Tires

 

[PCeBiker]

Flat Out has Kevlar in it
Flat Out say’s works for both Tube and Tubeless Tires

Cool
My tires should be bulletproof then.

 

[PCeBiker]

Maybe, if possible, you can take an unpowered ride on your ebike before you change your tires to get an idea of how hard you have to pedal with your nobby tires, then do it again after the tire change.

That will give you a idea of how hard the motor and battery has to work just to get going.
Then set your tires to the lowest recommended pressure (it should be printed on the tire) and pedal it around some more.

I'm guessing that you should easily feel the difference in effort between the tires, and it will show you how much energy is wasted just rotating nobby tires, especially fat nobby tires inflated to 6-8 psi.

I like tangible results that can be felt.

I can't feel any difference with my waxed chain, but it is smooth and quiet.

 

[GMA52]

I have already done that when I first got it before the battery was charged up. Mind you 10 lbs less Our area is hilly. Going down hill checked gears out and it was great until I turned around to go back up hill and I had to get off and walk it back. It is 74lbs without the battery and without me. Now consider someone who hasn‘t been out riding since back surgery, lost leg strength trying to pedal uphill a 74 lbs bike with 4” tires. Not working!

 

[Gionnirocket]

@GMA52... Why does everyone keep giving you homework assignments?

 

[PedalUma]

Muc-Off and FlatOut are different products

Not quite. Muc-Off make tubeless sealant and they make tube sealant.
Check out the thread Just For Fun that I just posted.

 

[PCeBiker]

I have already done that when I first got it before the battery was charged up.

I've only pedaled my e-bike once when I ran out of battery.
It was my first trip with two batteries and I wanted to see how far I could get on one battery.

When my first battery was depleted, I went swap batteries and realized that I forgot the key to remove the battery.

It was a PITA to pedal it, but fortunately I was only 5 miles from home, I've got no hills to deal with, and I've got a Super Low granny gear so I could pedal just fast enough to keep my balance and pedal home at 2 or 3 mph.

I was lucky because I was planning on draining both batteries with a ~100 km trip, but changed my mind and decided to just kill one battery, so I was close to home when the first battery died.

 

[PCeBiker]

Sometimes when you drop a small part they can bounce and roll out of site in an instance, especially if they hit hard concrete.

I've done that so many times that I freeze as soon as I drop something and listen.
If I listen carefully I can usually tell which way and how far the part went.
It's the second and later bounces to listen for, so you can lock in on a direction.

I used to quickly look towards where something fell, but I can find a tiny ball bearing easier by listening more than looking.

C-clips are the worst !!
They like to take off flying and land in another part of the house.

I learned to get my pliers lined up in the clip then cover it with a rag to catch it before I squeeze the handles.
Then it falls outta the rag so I still need to keep listening.

 

[GMA52]

@GMA52... Why does everyone keep giving you homework assignments?

Because I am a glutton for punishment and an easy target…

 

[PCeBiker]

@GMA52... Why does everyone keep giving you homework assignments?

Because I am a glutton for punishment and an easy target…

I'm guilty of not doing the homework that I tell others to do.

 

[PCeBiker]

Appreciate the advise and tips. Thanks guys

Another thing to consider is to pack your motor cable connector (and maybe all your connectors?) with dielectric grease when you reconnect it.

The stuff is messy, but you wipe it off the outside of the connector afterwards, and the connectors don't need to come apart too often.

The connectors can be difficult to get apart. Heating them up with a hairdryer helps.
They have arrows on them to show alignment, but they can be hard to see.

 

[GMA52]

Yes, I had dielectric Grease at one time but been a while and have to check. Used it before working on a guy’s house with aluminum wiring (Aluminum is bad and outlawed since the early to min 1970’s) where connecting to short piece of copper wire to connect to outlet and have to pigtail the copper with the aluminum using a wire nut full of dielectric grease ( have to do this because of corrosion due to dissimilar metals). l used at work over the years at DFW International Airport in Electronics. BTW: Back in the 1990’s someone got the bright idea to install new power rails on the Airport Train system during expansion with Aluminum instead of the Steel originally used on the older parts. When they went to test the Phase Imbalance equipment that fed power it wasn’t adjusted right and to much current was pulled by the shorting bars when testing and the aluminum literally melted onto the guideway floor. The rails would sag in the hot Texas summer too. Also in a house with aluminum wiring normally if it were copper romex it would be stapled to a wall stud but with aluminum it expands and contracts with temperatures you cannot do that so it is just strung from one stud and hangs down crossing over to another stud. I used a stud finder and went to cut out a hole in the guy’s wall to add a wall light. I sawed into that aluminum romex. It was on a 20 amp breaker. If were copper it would have tripped but the aluminum just caught the romex covering and insulation in the wall on fire. I went out and manually tripped the breaker and used a fire extinguisher to put out the smoldering in the wall. I will not buy a house with that stuff in it.