Post #16 acknowledges the parent's professions.40 posts and no one posted what the parents do for a living?
LOL
I stand corrected.Post #16 acknowledges the parent's professions.
No problem. Though I must say, the parent's have enough suffering and guilt that will be with them til the day they die. No need to compound their anguish.I stand corrected.
The best solution is to sue the parents for being stupid parents. It'll never happen but why not dream?
OK. Skip the trial and hang them. Then they won't have guilt, suffer or anguish. And, ropes are reusable.Though I must say, the parent's have enough suffering and guilt that will be with them til the day they die. No need to compound their anguish.
My guess is that the parents will get a settlement. People have successfully sued after spilling hot coffee on their lap.No problem. Though I must say, the parent's have enough suffering and guilt that will be with them til the day they die. No need to compound their anguish.
Regards to the front fork, I come away surprised that in this day and age, that anyone would manufacture a fork with vertical dropouts. After having owned my own Haibike with thru-axles, I'm convinced that should be the world standard for any bicycle made in 2022.
Its nowhere near as cavalier as that. If it turns out that liability is found due to this QR-on-the-front-wheel business, and that the dropouts are a part of this liability, that can have a colossal impact on the bicycle and ebike industry. To call it 'chilling' is a vast understatement as it would open up almost every ebike manufacturer to crippling lawsuits.A young girl is dead and this thread has wandered off onto who cares about dropouts the most. Sad.
But it is expressly cited as a specific cause of action in the form of negligent manufacture in the lawsuit. So regardless of whether the accident had anything to do with the axle popping out (i.e. speculation is irrelevant), if there is liability found on this issue thats going to have a huge impact on manufacture from all players (not just Rad), parts availability etc.Still has been no indication that was even a problem via witnesses or the press, only speculation.
It is difficult to find exact statistics on how often a properly tightened front wheel falls off, as it is a rare occurrence. However, it is important to note that a properly tightened front wheel is crucial for safe operation of a bicycle.About this QR business. Are there any statistics to show how often a properly tightened front wheel actually falls off? As I said I had to remove mine to fix a flat at around 600 miles. As I recall after releasing the clamp I had to pound on the tire with the palm of my hand quite a bit to get it to release. That was about 3,000 miles ago and when I tried to release the clamp before my ride today it took a lot of force to release the lever and I'm a 200lb fit male. I know my female friend would not have been able to do it. All that said I would have no problem if they stopped making them that way but still I find that I'm not terribly worried about my wheel falling off.
No, and I don't have a clue how you'd manage to collect such statistics.About this QR business. Are there any statistics to show how often a properly tightened front wheel actually falls off?
usually it means a hollow rod that threads into one side. though they can have a quick release too but usually you dont have loose parts and springs like you do with a quick release. they tend to be 10 to 12mmApologies for the newbie question, but what exactly is a thru-axle and (more importantly), how do you know whether your front wheel has one? I know that my bike does because it’s in the product description, but that’s the only way I know. What I am wondering is whether my kids’ hand-me-down bikes have them. (Their bikes are 20 years old and I no longer know what models they are).
I’d think that “thru-axle” just literally means “a rod that goes through the axle.” But every bike has that, don’t they? (In the sense that there has to be a rod that goes through the front wheel’s axle and is secured by the quick release lever on one side and a nut on the other side or by a nut on both sides.) So I assume a “thru-axle” design refers to something more specific. Either that, or not every bike has such a rod; but then I can’t envision how the front wheel would be connected to the fork.
It is recommended to have the QR mechanism checked and possibly replaced by a professional bike mechanic.
To amplify a bit on the response @fooferdoggie and Google gave you, a thru axle integrates the attachment mech directly into the frame and fork, so there is no chance of something coming loose and falling off, and VERY little chance of the axle coming completely loose as there are a lot of threads holding it in. Only the most brain-dead rider will not notice in time to fix, and the axle can be quite loose and still be perfectly functional. Because of the difference in mechanism between a thru axle and QR, you don't need much torque at all for a thru axle. 5 to 7.5Nm is the specification for my Bullitt's dropouts which is almost nothing... 3.7 to 5.5 ft lbs which are units of measure so small only a small size bicycle torque wrench can even be set to them.Apologies for the newbie question, but what exactly is a thru-axle
yes this happened on our tandem. I was doing something to the wheel and their through axle did not tighten right it felt snug but it felt different. but I thought it was shut the cold. we were coming down a 10 mile long decent on rough ground when something felt weird. found the axle was loose. then it tightened right felt normal.To amplify a bit on the response @fooferdoggie and Google gave you, a thru axle integrates the attachment mech directly into the frame and fork, so there is no chance of something coming loose and falling off, and VERY little chance of the axle coming completely loose as there are a lot of threads holding it in. Only the most brain-dead rider will not notice in time to fix, and the axle can be quite loose and still be perfectly functional. Because of the difference in mechanism between a thru axle and QR, you don't need much torque at all for a thru axle. 5 to 7.5Nm is the specification for my Bullitt's dropouts which is almost nothing... 3.7 to 5.5 ft lbs which are units of measure so small only a small size bicycle torque wrench can even be set to them.
They tend to be 12 to 15 mm.they tend to be 10 to 12mm
there are 10s and others its a bit crazy and different threads too. no standards really.They tend to be 12 to 15 mm.
Of course there are standards.there are 10s and others its a bit crazy and different threads too. no standards really.