Are you sure about that?
I believe what you are witnessing is the basic function of a CC - CV charger/bms. As target voltage is approached, current trails off.
I believe if balancing was actually taking place you would see a current increase or remain steady as the target voltage is reached and resistors are implemented to burn off current on the full cells allowing the others to catch up and the full cells to not overcharge.
Or you would need some pretty sophisticated circuitry for cell isolation and/or current redistribution.
y bms mv
How could balancing cause an increase in watts?
Suppose I have a battery with 3 columns of 13 cells in series. I'll round the fully charged voltage down to 52, or 4 volts per cell. A 2-amp charger would use 156 watts (nominally) to deliver 2/3 amp per column. (For AC I prefer to measure watts because power factor can make amp readings misleading.)
I don't see how balancing could draw more than the charger's limit of 2 amps. The column voltage will be the sum of the voltages of its 13 cells. Each cell's voltage will be the sum of its state of charge and the product of its current and its resistance. At some point the combination of state of charge and resistance voltages will reach the nominal 52. As the state of charge continues to climb, current will have to diminish to stay at a total of 52.
I usually see something close to that. The problem is self-discharge, which varies widely between cells. Suppose the worst cells in a battery had a rate 1ma faster than the best. In two months, when the best cells finished charging, the worst would be 1.5 AH low. If they show less than the fully charged voltage, which I'll call 4.00, the charged cells in the column will show more. That can cause oxygen venting, which shorten's cell life, and heating that could be disastrous. I believe an important function of a BMS is to give each cell a bypass circuit to prevent overvoltage while other cells in the column continue to charge.
A couple of years ago I took out a bike to check the odometer on a measured track. I hadn't ridden it lately. The display read 48 volts, so I didn't charge it. When I used the throttle even slightly, the battery would cut out. I took that to mean some cells were so low that they impeded the flow. The display showed that other cells must have been much better charged. I hadn't charged it in months, and before that I'd followed the fad of charging only to 80%.
The first part of the charge was normal, but as the wattage tapered, the process was slow. I think it took days because I used the timer to charge only when I was present. A green light doesn't always mean a battery is balanced. If I let it rest and turned on the timer an hour later, it might charge at 20 watts. In chemical batteries, a buildup of ions can fool a charger. A rest will let them dissipate. I was rewarded with a battery that after 2 years and 6,000 miles seemed to have the same range and performance as new.
These days I think the best way to be sure a battery is balanced is to turn on the charger after an hour's rest to be sure it's still pulling only a watt or so.