Newb chain length/link question

pmcdonald

pmcdonald

Well-Known Member
My bike came with a KMC e10 chain. 122 links, 1/2" x 11/128" size. These chains are pricey and particularly hard to find at the moment.

My dumb question: do I need to match the number of links, or if I find a chain with the same 1/2" x 11/128" size but less links (such as this 116L chain) will that work?

Sub question for bonus points: how do chains with a different number of links end up measuring the same size? Don't all bike chains conform to a one half inch pitch standard?

Sincerly, je suis confus.

EDIT: Oh wait, is 11/128 the width? That would make a lot more sense. I'm obviously not much of a dimension person. I'll just track down a 122 link chain or more and cut down or run with that.
 
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All bike chains conform to the same standard of 1/2" link length. The only thing you need to ensure is:
  • Your new chain is for the right number of "speeds", (10-speed in your case). The width of the chain for each number of gears (speeds) is precisely defined.
  • The number of links in the new chain is equal to or greater than the original chain includes. (You remove the excessive links with a chain tool to make the new chain of the same number of links as the old one).
 
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pmcdonald said:
My bike came with a KMC e10 chain. 122 links, 1/2" x 11/128" size. These chains are pricey and particularly hard to find at the moment.

My dumb question: do I need to match the number of links, or if I find a chain with the same 1/2" x 11/128" size but less links (such as this 116L chain) will that work?

Sub question for bonus points: how do chains with a different number of links end up measuring the same size? Don't all bike chains conform to a one half inch pitch standard?

Sincerly, je suis confus.

EDIT: Oh wait, is 11/128 the width? That would make a lot more sense. I'm obviously not much of a dimension person. I'll just track down a 122 link chain or more and cut down or run with that.
Click to expand...
Just buy two of these. then next time you keep using that cut chain to add to each one. get extra quick links too and a decent chain breaking tool


 
Using two linked chains is always an option for long bike such as recumbents and cargo bikes. Just make sure that they are the same length. You will want the quick links on opposite sides of the drivetrain. You do not want two quick links going through the derailleur at once or on the top (power tension side) at once. Yes, stick with the KMC e10. So what if it is pricy. It is worth it as an investment that pays dividends daily. Is this a large framed full suspension bike, perhaps a 29er?
I am doing a nine-speed recumbent today that will take three linked equal length chains, an exception to the above rule because it cannot be avoided.
 
PedalUma said:
Using two linked chains is always an option for long bike such as recumbents and cargo bikes. Just make sure that they are the same length. You will want the quick links on opposite sides of the drivetrain. You do not want two quick links going through the derailleur at once or on the top (power tension side) at once. Yes, stick with the KMC e10. So what if it is pricy. It is worth it as an investment that pays dividends daily. Is this a large framed full suspension bike, perhaps a 29er?
I am doing a nine-speed recumbent today that will take three linked equal length chains, an exception to the above rule because it cannot be avoided.
Click to expand...
I have not found the double cost of a echain to get double the life. last one I tested a shimano e chain I got 3000 miles on it. thats at most 1000 more miles instead of the 2000 to 2500 miles on a the regular kmc chain. yoru better off buying two cheaper chains. I may ahve gotten less miles if I rode that chain in the rain I did not test it in winter.
 
I agree for most builds.
For 5,6,7,8 speeds my go to chain is the KMC X8.99, that is on powerful mid-drives. With nine speeds you do not need an eChain. In my opinion for powerful mid-drives, especially mountain bikes, they should have eChains for 10,11,12 speeds. That is one reason I like to drop down from them to a wide range 9 speed cassette with thicker cogs with a heftier, less expensive chain.
 
PedalUma said:
I agree for most builds.
For 5,6,7,8 speeds my go to chain is the KMC X8.99, that is on powerful mid-drives. With nine speeds you do not need an eChain. In my opinion for powerful mid-drives, especially mountain bikes, they should have eChains for 10,11,12 speeds. That is one reason I like to drop down from them to a wide range 9 speed cassette with thicker cogs with a heftier, less expensive chain.
Click to expand...
I was talking 10 speed. 3000 miles in summer on a shimano e chain. 2000 to 2500 or a regular kmc in the rain. for twice the price I got at most 1/3 more life. its just better cost wise using the cheaper chain and replacing it a little sooner. they are easier to find too. so far I am on my 6th chain in 12,000 miles.
 
fooferdoggie said:
Just buy two of these. then next time you keep using that cut chain to add to each one. get extra quick links too and a decent chain breaking tool
Click to expand...
Thank you, that's really helpful. I've shortened a chain or two in the past but never thought to extend using an old chain. Those Amazon prices are crazy cheap too - we pay double for the same chain in Australian retailers. I have a used chain that I removed prematurely that'll make the perfect donor!

The bike is a regular hybrid commuter style. It has twin chainrings up front, so perhaps that's what there's the extra links?
 
pmcdonald said:
Thank you, that's really helpful. I've shortened a chain or two in the past but never thought to extend using an old chain. Those Amazon prices are crazy cheap too - we pay double for the same chain in Australian retailers. I have a used chain that I removed prematurely that'll make the perfect donor!
Click to expand...
I leanred when I had a recumbent and now the tandem. wish I could get more life out of a chain though. I have to buy 4 chains at least 3 times a year.
 
Here is the three chain electric bike I finished this morning, your yesterday. Now it is time to finish a titanium MTB that is going out tomorrow. It has a ten-speed cassette and is getting an e10 chain. On the pricier chains it is worth it for people who do not work on bikes but have someone else do the work. Bringing a bike in for service takes their time. 1/3 longer life at twice the price means less of their time, worry spent on keeping up the bike. Single speed chains are the beefiest and much more cost effective than belts but require investing in internal gears, just like belt-drives. I like the wide half-link BMX style chains for these applications. Supper strong. But the link pins are very hard to install even for experienced mechanics. The L in HL1 is for long life. I adore internally geared hubs. Very low maintenance, shifting while stopped.
1633134023996.jpeg
 

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PedalUma said:
Here is the three chain electric bike I finished this morning, your yesterday. Now it is time to finish a titanium MTB that is going out tomorrow. It has a ten-speed cassette and is getting an e10 chain. On the pricier chains it is worth it for people who do not work on bikes but have someone else do the work. Bringing a bike in for service takes their time. 1/3 longer life at twice the price means less of their time, worry spent on keeping up the bike. Single speed chains are the beefiest and much more cost effective than belts but require investing in internal gears, just like belt-drives. I like the wide half-link BMX style chains for these applications. Supper strong. But the link pins are very hard to install even for experienced mechanics. The L in HL1 is for long life. I adore internally geared hubs. Very low maintenance, shifting while stopped.
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yes for that for sure. I sold my rush bike as I was too sick to ride and I could not take it on the bus so I could ride part way like a regular bike. but it was 5 years ago maybe and I had no clue about e bikes . but it was not a practical bike for a commuter really hard to go to the sore and such.
 
@pmcdonald: Remember one thing: The chain tools are made for specific chain "speeds". Therefore, a 12-speed chain tool is good for any chain, 11-speed tool cannot work on 12-speed chain, 10-speed tool is not good for 11- and 12-speed chains etc. It is the best to buy just a 10-speed chain tool in your case.
 
In regards to chain life I run KMC e11spd on FS eMTB with old CX motor, never broken chain even after few jams in chainring.
On HT commuter with same dongled motor get 3500kms out of HG701 with no breakages. All chains replaced at 0.75 wear mark along with chainring.
Mileage on KMC trend to be lot lower but that is to be expected with MTBing. While HG701 is lot cheaper still prefer trusted KMC when MTBing given it gets more abuse.
 
I dropped my 11-sp to nine. Why? The chain and cogs can be wider, disbursing the load thus lasting longer - with less expensive replacement parts with and an equivalent over all range of gears. With adequate power you do not need all the minor increments of an an 11-speed acoustic bike. Just adjust power the level on an eBike.
This chain tool works with All chains. Park Tool 3.3. I just used it on a 12, 11, 10-sp, and extra-wide one-speed, that one speed is as strong as a belt. Lube the tip every time. Force dispersal is the key to longevity of drivetrain components. That is why belts are cool and low maint. They are wide. Belts are disbursed and not narrow and cutting. The spacer plate on the 3.3 is self adjusting unlike popular off the shelf models.
 

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mmcarm said:
Appreciate the info PedalUma, any recommendation on wide range 9 speed cassette that's durable/good value?
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Look for something like this on eBay or Amazon for about $25. This one is 11-42. You will need a long cage MTB derailleur to use it. I have used these in 7,8, & 9-speed configurations. I am impressed with the quality. The same product is sold under a bunch of different brands with branding only on the lock rings.
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pmcdonald said:
My bike came with a KMC e10 chain. 122 links, 1/2" x 11/128" size. These chains are pricey and particularly hard to find at the moment.

My dumb question: do I need to match the number of links, or if I find a chain with the same 1/2" x 11/128" size but less links (such as this 116L chain) will that work?

Sub question for bonus points: how do chains with a different number of links end up measuring the same size? Don't all bike chains conform to a one half inch pitch standard?

Sincerly, je suis confus.

EDIT: Oh wait, is 11/128 the width? That would make a lot more sense. I'm obviously not much of a dimension person. I'll just track down a 122 link chain or more and cut down or run with that.
Click to expand...
Match the chain(width and link length) already on it.
Its made for the sprocket's teeth's gaps. If ya matching a chain to to a new or old rear cassette and new or old front sprocket.
Nice gold halflink @PedalUma !
 
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