My chain is jumping off the chain ring on my Creo

Oh, @mschwett and @VoltMan99 are really being helpful tonight! ;)

And as I think about it, trying to move the change one link (or two or three or X) back or forth will not be easy as the odds are I will lose my grip and the chain will fall inside and jam once again! o_O

Bike shop it is! But I really don't have to worry since the next five days are RAIN! But do you think the bike shop will understand what I'm talking about - that the chain has to be in some sync with the TOOTH? Is there a term for this. "align outer link with inner tooth!"
I don't think it will be that hard if you release the clutch. The mark is on the backside of the chain ring and the shop should be familiar with it. I used a silver marker to make a line on the front side. Most likely as Rincon said, it's time to think about a new chain. We have a really fine grit that gets on the chain in our wet weather.
 
@kahn:
I know understanding of the Wave chainring might feel difficult for you but please read these posts:

The diagrams shown there can help. It is essential that you have a close look at the chainring and the chain on it from the top. As Allan has just said, you need to release the clutch to be able to manipulate the chain position on the chainring.

Note: The Praxis Wave and Shimano-based Wide-Narrow chainrings (for both design, each two subsequent chainring teeth are different or differently located) have been made for a sole purpose: to prevent the chain jumping off.

Now, imagine my frustration of the last Summer. I have replaced the chainring on my Vado, which also involved replacing a chain with a new, shortened one. I seemed to do everything correctly to find out on a test ride the chain was skipping... Ah. I forgot aligning the chain links on the chainring! After having that fixed, I was totally sure my work was over. To realize I forgot engaging the clutch... :D
 
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I just came across this thread and decided to check my chain installation. Is this chain installed correctly? I haven't touched the chain since I got this bike. I know, I have to clean the chain. I am just verifying being I don't have any problems with the chain dropping. I do have a chain guide.
 
Thank you. I moved the chain and now the higher gears are noisy. Is there a simple adjustment for this without going through the complete derailleur adjustment? I don't want to touch anything that doesn't need to be adjusted. I just picked this bike up for repairs last week Friday from the Specialized store. I don't feel like driving there again.
 
Thank you. I moved the chain and now the higher gears are noisy. Is there a simple adjustment for this without going through the complete derailleur adjustment? I don't want to touch anything that doesn't need to be adjusted. I just picked this bike up for repairs last week Friday from the Specialized store. I don't feel like driving there again.

Please watch the Park Tool video on derailleur adjustment on YT. Badly adjusted derailleur can be the primary reason for chain dropping! (It happened to my Vado SL...)
 
It is a good thing I didn't touch it. I took it back to the Specialized shop. They tried to adjust it out even though the tech said is was something else. He replaced the chain and the noise was still there. He used another cassette but it didn't have the correct lowest gear and the noise went away. He said it was going to take 2 months to get the correct cassette. I told him that was unacceptable. He said he will try find a different solution. They wouldn't borrow it off another bike although they have one. I asked him if the chain being on the wrong tooth damaged the cassette. He didn't answer. He claims the chain wasn't on the wrong tooth the 2 times it was there. I told him no one touched the chain but him until today. I left the bike there.
 
It is a good thing I didn't touch it. I took it back to the Specialized shop. They tried to adjust it out even though the tech said is was something else. He replaced the chain and the noise was still there. He used another cassette but it didn't have the correct lowest gear and the noise went away. He said it was going to take 2 months to get the correct cassette. I told him that was unacceptable. He said he will try find a different solution. They wouldn't borrow it off another bike although they have one. I asked him if the chain being on the wrong tooth damaged the cassette. He didn't answer. He claims the chain wasn't on the wrong tooth the 2 times it was there. I told him no one touched the chain but him until today. I left the bike there.
An update. Got the bike back. The knocking is gone with the chain positioned correctly but I only took it for a spin around the block. Like mentioned, they couldn’t get the Sunrace cassette so they installed a Shimano cassette which is silver instead of black. Looks like a quality repair. All the nasty wax was cleaned from the old chain, chain ring and idler pulleys. Still wondering if the wrong chain position damaged the cassette.
 
An update. Got the bike back. The knocking is gone with the chain positioned correctly but I only took it for a spin around the block. Like mentioned, they couldn’t get the Sunrace cassette so they installed a Shimano cassette which is silver instead of black. Looks like a quality repair. All the nasty wax was cleaned from the old chain, chain ring and idler pulleys. Still wondering if the wrong chain position damaged the cassette.

i really can’t imagine how the position of the chain on the chainring could affect the cassette - which has no such position requirement and couldn’t possibly since some cogs are an odd number of teeth (11t etc) and some are even (36, 42, etc)

the sunrace cassette is really heavy, nothing special, i’m betting the shimano one is better! enjoy the ride :)
 
i really can’t imagine how the position of the chain on the chainring could affect the cassette - which has no such position requirement and couldn’t possibly since some cogs are an odd number of teeth (11t etc) and some are even (36, 42, etc)

the sunrace cassette is really heavy, nothing special, i’m betting the shimano one is better! enjoy the ride :)
Thank you for the input. A little history. From the time it was new (90 Days ago) there was a muffled knocking noise while climbing a steep grade in Sport and Turbo. After 200 miles it got a lot quieter. I took it in to have checked and the concern could not be duplicated. I just rode it like that till it was time for the 90 day checkup. The concern couldn’t be duplicated again. During that time I checked this forum for “fixes” and performed the ones I could. Mostly checking the bolt torque. After the 90 day checkup I decided to look for more fixes though not related to a noise. That is when I came across the chain position information. I won’t be able to ride a steep grade till this weekend. But, regardless the outcome I may be done with this noise. The store certainly doesn’t want to see me anymore. They were not happy when I told them of the chain position and they claim the two times I took it in the chain was was installed correctly but I have proof with a dated picture that it wasn’t. I wasn’t taking a picture of the chain position. I was taking a picture of the chain guide.
 
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Thank you for the input. A little history. From the time it was new (90 Days ago) there was a muffled knocking noise while climbing a steep grade in Sport and Turbo. After 200 miles it got a lot quieter. I took it in to have checked and the concern could not be duplicated. I just rode it like that till it was time for the 90 day checkup. The concern couldn’t be duplicated again. During that time I checked this forum for “fixes” and performed the ones I could. Mostly checking the bolt torque. After the 90 day checkup I decided to look for more fixes though not related to a noise. That is when I came across the chain position information. I won’t be able to ride a steep grade till this weekend. But, regardless the outcome I may be done with this noise. The store certainly doesn’t want to see me anymore. They were not happy when I told them of the chain position and they claim the two times I took it in the chain was was installed correctly and I have proof with a dated picture that it wasn’t. I wasn’t taking a picture of the chain position. I was taking a picture of the chain guide.
the only two outcomes i can possibly imagine for the chain position offset are 1) dropped chain and 2) premature chain or chainring wear. no possible effect on the motor, unless maybe the chain was dropping so often that the motor got damaged by all the “getting stuck”
 
the only two outcomes i can possibly imagine for the chain position offset are 1) dropped chain and 2) premature chain or chainring wear. no possible effect on the motor, unless maybe the chain was dropping so often that the motor got damaged by all the “getting stuck”
Like I mentioned previously the chain never dropped where I had to stop riding and reinstall the chain. I don’t know how it would feel if it wanted to drop and the guide put it back in place but I never felt any indication of something like this happening. I measured the chain and it was at .25.
 
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Like I mentioned previously the chain never dropped where I had to stop riding and reinstall the chain. I don’t know how it would feel if it wanted to drop and the guide put it back in place but I never felt any indication of something like this happening. I measured the chain and it was at .25.
i am certain any clunking or squeaking or squeaking or other noises you’re worried about have nothing to do with the chain alignment!
 
Coincidentally I had my first chain drop ever on my Creo this morning while going down a grade at a pretty decent clip, maybe 8th or 9nth cog. Fell off my 42 tooth chainring. I noted a not insignificant amount of grime and crud on the ring that may have had something to do with it, though. It’s been taken care of!
 
the only two outcomes i can possibly imagine for the chain position offset are 1) dropped chain and 2) premature chain or chainring wear. no possible effect on the motor, unless maybe the chain was dropping so often that the motor got damaged by all the “getting stuck”
The only time my chain dropped off the chainring was when my derailleur was misaligned with the indexing one full gear towards the biggest cassette cog...
 
i am certain any clunking or squeaking or squeaking or other noises you’re worried about have nothing to do with the chain alignment!
Just an update. Maybe not the proper place for the fix but you were right with this noise concern. As mentioned above, the noise started with a clicking/rattling/knocking noise while climbing a steep grade. You would almost think that it was related to the rotation of the pedals since the noise frequency would follow the pedal rotation. After time, the noise concern happened while going over bumps in the road also. You would hear this same noise while going over every crack in the road and sometimes it could be constantly. Although the pedal noise and bump noise sounded alike I wasn't certain at the time it was the same or related to the same concern.

The noise concern occurred from the time the bike was new till presently when I found the concern and verified it with a long for me ride (34 miles, yesterday). Like mentioned previously, it was in the shop 3 times and various emails to Rider Care with no repairs that fixed the noise concern. The second time in to address the noise, "more time" was spent trying to convince me that the noise they didn't hear was normal then looking for the noise. The third time (after replacing the cassette) I rode the bike in the parking lot and the noise was always there. An employee took a ride in the parking lot to verify. They indicated that they didn't have time to look at it so I just took it. Yes, although they appeared to be not interested in repairing this, I really didn't want them to touch my bike anymore. They already put 2 small scratches in the top tube when they removed the TCU and just let it hang there while rubbing it against the frame. Every time I took the bike in I would remove every item off the bike that didn't come the way the bike did. Including installing the original pedals. I didn't want blame to be put on those items.

Ok, the cause. It was the steering bezel (duckbill) rubbing on the frame. There were very slight rubbing marks on the top tube under the bezel on the left side. I never thought anything about it at first but I was getting desperate looking at various posts on this forum and torquing all the bolts. I kinda remember seeing something about this on this forum but I can't find it at this time. I don't know if this is the proper repair but I sanded the bottom of the bezel to give it more clearance. I also checked the fork for any excessive play but I don't see any play in the fork. Presently, I don't want to mess with the adjustment of the headset. It is always easy to make a story fit after finding the solution but if you think about it, it makes sense. The fork movement when it was stressed pushed the bezel into the top tube creating the noise. Would/could this happen with an alloy frame or is this only with carbon frames since noise carries differently?

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It was a relief to find this noise. For over 90 days, riding my bike turned out to be looking for the noise instead of enjoying the ride. Ok, I admit, although the noiseless ride was enjoyable at first, I was getting tired at the end. Maybe, because there was no noise to aggravate me. About the shop, there are good people there. They are pleasant to talk to and very friendly. I know the technician is always busy. So maybe, hiring another technician would be the solution. By the way, this is a Specialized owned store. As far as Rider Care, they want you to take it back to the store.

Thank you to everyone sharing your time.
 
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