My chain is jumping off the chain ring on my Creo

Fork movement?? Ideally the fork should not move at all. Sounds like your headset is loose. Check out this video:


Also, for all chain droppers: Is this only a problem with Praxis chain rings, or do other brands do it? When I decided to go with a smaller ring I bought a wide/narrow one from SRAM. No issues with chain drop. Full disclosure: my Creo came with the retainer mentioned earlier in the thread.
 
Fork movement?? Ideally the fork should not move at all. Sounds like your headset is loose. Check out this video:


Also, for all chain droppers: Is this only a problem with Praxis chain rings, or do other brands do it? When I decided to go with a smaller ring I bought a wide/narrow one from SRAM. No issues with chain drop. Full disclosure: my Creo came with the retainer mentioned earlier in the thread.
I did watch the video prior to posting. I applied the front brakes, rocked the bike and didn't notice any movement. I even inserted a piece of paper under the bezel and didn't feel a change in resistance. I didn't try this same procedure while riding and going over bumps being I probably would end up having bumps on me. Like I mentioned, at this time I don't want to mess with the adjustment until I get further experience. I don't know how to approach this. Should I trust the assembly of the bike or should I assume that it came with a problem so everything else is wrong? I kinda follow the rule of "if it isn't broken don't fix it". I don't know how many times I tried to make things better only to create more problems.

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I can't answer your question about a replacement chain ring but I do have a question about the chain ring guard/guide position. I know there are labeled positions for the guide. Is the guide supposed to be installed at the extreme limits with no regard to the distance? Should it be parallel to the chain? The guide can be positioned closer from the extreme and also be tilted forward or backward.
 
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Sounds like your headset is ok. Mine keeps working a bit loose, for some reason. I don't want to over tighten the lock screws, but maybe I'm being too gentle. Unfortunately I can't help you with the guide position. My smaller chain ring is smaller than either of the position labels, so I put it as low as possible, pretty much parallel to the chain. I'm not sure it is really doing much any more, so I'm glad I've had no indications of dropping the chain (knock on wood).
 
Two simple questions, please:

Q1. The narrow-wide chainring tooth design is specifically to combat chain drops, correct?

Q2. How effective is it in practice?
 
Two simple questions, please:

Q1. The narrow-wide chainring tooth design is specifically to combat chain drops, correct?
Yes. The Praxis Wave, too.
Q2. How effective is it in practice?
Combined with the derailleur clutch, it virtually prevents any chain drops as long as the derailleur is properly adjusted. I simply cannot understand what the real reason some people experience any chain drops on modern premium e-bikes is. The only chain drop I ever had on any of my e-bikes was caused by a badly adjusted derailleur.
 
Two simple questions, please:

Q1. The narrow-wide chainring tooth design is specifically to combat chain drops, correct?

Q2. How effective is it in practice?
Q1 Yes you are correct, but some are far better than others. I use the Garbaruk Chainring and my teeth are fully proud out the top of the chain. The Praxis one are half this height. I have never had a dropped chain on the Garbaruk.

Q2. I have never had a dropped chain on the Garbaruk, no matter how rough the road.
 
Jeremy, I would add
Q3: Out of what's available today, is narrow-wide more effective than wavy?

I have no doubt there is a chain drop problem, if only because manufacturers have bothered to make narrow-wide and wavy chain rings and ship them as original equipment. It seems like depending on clutches and adjustment just isn't enough.
 
Not in my experience. Half the weight of the Praxis and I have done 5000 faultless miles with it and hardly noticed and wear.
Dazman, do you realise our friend Rome is, like, kinda stupid? :) He has no clue whatsoever.

I'm proud the person of a great knowledge in metallurgy and drivetrain components Mr. Garbaruk Sr. chose Cracow, Poland, as the manufacturing site for his excellent products!
 
Dazman, do you realise our friend Rome is, like, kinda stupid? :) He has no clue whatsoever.

I'm proud the person of a great knowledge in metallurgy and drivetrain components Mr. Garbaruk Sr. chose Cracow, Poland, as the manufacturing site for his excellent products!
Thanks and I do indeed. How can you call something garbage when you zero experience of it. Garbaruk is quality in my book and will by another when the time comes
 
Anyone tried the Creo 2 chain guide on the original Creo? Looks like it might fit.
What is the part number? The motor mounts are the same between the Creo SL and Creo 2. The chain guide is attached to one of the motor mount bolts. I haven't dropped a chain since I switched to a Wolf Tooth chain ring and waxed chains. I was dropping chains at 4000 miles with the Praxis when I changed to Wolf Tooth and I'm at almost 12000 miles now.
 
I also aligned my derailleur and I've been meticulous about chain care after I replaced the chain ring and cassette. I may try and order one of the chain guides just to try.

I've had trouble periodically as well. I have an 1.1mtr VadoSL4 and the distance between the chainring and frame is just a mil too small imo. Anyway - the couple times I've had the chain drop inside is when I've forgotten the clutch or at near replacement of the chain and/or cassatte. Recently - even with clutch engaged and fairly new drive train hardware - my chain slipped when mtb biking and frame took a hit. I was wondering if anyone had experience with the type of chain guide that connects to seat tube (pic)? I didn't see anything for vadosl on SPecy's site
 

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I have a Vado SL 5.0 purchased in 2021, and I have made no modifications to it. My chain has dropped inside a few times. leading to some greasy hands (before I started carrying a rag). It seems that this happens when changing gears, going from the largest ring toward the smaller ones. It also may happen when coasting downhill and peddling gently. I am curious about the comments about the clutch, and I'm wondering what that is referring to. What is the clutch, and when is it engaged or disengaged? Will being sure the clutch is engaged prevent the chain from dropping?

Is there a chain guide for the Vado SL 5.0?

Thanks for any additional info.
 
I have a Vado SL 5.0 purchased in 2021, and I have made no modifications to it. My chain has dropped inside a few times. leading to some greasy hands (before I started carrying a rag). It seems that this happens when changing gears, going from the largest ring toward the smaller ones. It also may happen when coasting downhill and peddling gently. I am curious about the comments about the clutch, and I'm wondering what that is referring to. What is the clutch, and when is it engaged or disengaged? Will being sure the clutch is engaged prevent the chain from dropping?

Is there a chain guide for the Vado SL 5.0?

Thanks for any additional info.
eagle GX (i believe that's what your vado sl 5 has) derailleur doesn't have a selectable clutch; it's more like it's always engaged which is where you'd want it for maximum chain retention. on the shimano GRX and other shimano rear derailleurs you can disengage the clutch and it shifts a little better.
 
eagle GX (i believe that's what your vado sl 5 has) derailleur doesn't have a selectable clutch; it's more like it's always engaged which is where you'd want it for maximum chain retention. on the shimano GRX and other shimano rear derailleurs you can disengage the clutch and it shifts a little better.
He has a Shimano with a clutch.
 
My SL 5.0 has a Shimano Deore XT, as Stefan said. I didn't know it had a clutch, and I don't know if it engaged or not. I'll look at the manual and see if I can figure it out.
 
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