Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Like I said, I was without a Specialized road bike for 6 weeks while they tried to repair a crack in the carbon fiber frame and then, reluctantly, supplied a warranty frame. I knew the repair wouldn’t work (and it didn’t) but it took weeks before I had my bike back to ride. I’ve also seen threads in the Specialized forum of people having recurring problems with their mid-drive motors. Trust me, just because there’s a big brand name behind the bike doesn’t mean they’re going to fix it in a timely manner. Yes, there is value in letting the dealer handle warranty repairs but you are going to pay significantly more for a bike bought through a dealer network.


Off topic but a fascinating bit about carbon fiber repair - it's eminently possible, just few people know how to do it. Take it from a guy who does it for a living on much costlier things.

 
Off topic but a fascinating bit about carbon fiber repair - it's eminently possible, just few people know how to do it. Take it from a guy who does it for a living on much costlier things.

I work in aircraft maintenance so I am a aware that it’s possible to repair carbon fiber. The crack was on the inside of the top tube back by the seat tube (not all the way through) causing a creak every time I pedaled. Specialized tried laying some carbon fiber up behind the crack. I knew that wasn’t going to fix the issue. The proper way to fix it would be to cut out the affected area and lay up new carbon fiber (then repaint it). I knew they (a large corporation) weren’t going to cut a hole in the top tube for liability reasons when their cost to supply a warranty frame was only a few hundred bucks.
 
This may have been addressed already as I'm new to this thread.
I just got the RipCurrent and pedal assist is not working as it should. It's not producing enough power to get the bike moving and up to reasonable speed. Throttle alone is working fine and I can reach 20mph no problem.
I've tried all levels of assist and different gears and it won't go past 15mph. I can see watts kicking in initially up to 200-300watts then trickles down to 100 or below and can't get that power back no matter how hard I pedal.
I've tried turning off the torque sensor in the menu and that didn't do much either.
I think sensor spacing might be a problem as indicated here. https://support.juicedbikes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016253271 But if this is the case how do I adjust the spacing?
I've sent in support email but being a long weekend, I'd doubt I will hear back next few days. Any input would be appreciated.
 
This may have been addressed already as I'm new to this thread.
I just got the RipCurrent and pedal assist is not working as it should. It's not producing enough power to get the bike moving and up to reasonable speed. Throttle alone is working fine and I can reach 20mph no problem.
I've tried all levels of assist and different gears and it won't go past 15mph. I can see watts kicking in initially up to 200-300watts then trickles down to 100 or below and can't get that power back no matter how hard I pedal.
I've tried turning off the torque sensor in the menu and that didn't do much either.
I think sensor spacing might be a problem as indicated here. https://support.juicedbikes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016253271 But if this is the case how do I adjust the spacing?
I've sent in support email but being a long weekend, I'd doubt I will hear back next few days. Any input would be appreciated.
Have you checked to make sure the speed limiter is set above 20mph??? Depending on location bikes can be shipped in a "class 2" configuration with speed limit set at 20 mph.
 
What is the NDW set to? If it was set to 1, it would describe your problem.

ccx-ndw.PNG
 
Wow, that GAADI inner tube is just awesome! That is definitely a must for a hub ebike owner for a quick fix until a proper tube can be installed. A lot less equipment to carry also for the "Get home" kit.

I was experiencing the chain falling off too, so I changed over to a Wipperman Connex ebike chain. It still falls off, but not as much. Luckily, I've learned how to use my foot to get it back onto the front sprocket without stopping the bike. :D
 
Message from Tora
Tora has made incredible advancements within his business, from opening a Juiced factory in China and a second office in Chula Vista to hiring a lot more employees in 2 countries- and good help is hard to find! Since he's also the chief designer, I bet he prolly has got his hands full. Even so, I would love to see him address things like the upside down shifter on the Scorpian and pay just a tiny bit of attention to the RCS, like maybe do an ECU enhancement to put the trip meter on the main screen instead of the odometer. There's also an odometer glitch that cause the odometer to reset to 0 by itself. I've seen this on two RCSs that both hit 1500 miles around the same time.
 
Juiced website lists a higher range for a bike with less battery - CCX for 70+ miles vs CCS for 75+. Sloppy.
 
NDW is set to 5. I'm thinking it's the spacing between cadence sensor and the smallest cog.
I had that problem too with the distance between the TS and the small cog. The 1st several rides were so anti climactic. Then I saw how my rear wheel was put on. I'm telling ya, they had to go outta there way to put a wheel on that badly. Once I installed it properly, I couldn't stop smiling the bike was so much better.
 
Hello - I am having an issue with the cadence on my Juiced Hyperscorpion. It seems to be way off all of a sudden (noticed it right away). I got on the bike today and it seems to help a little in the beginning (not as well as it was before), and then when I get going and encounter any sort of a hill, it cuts out, or anytime I'm going over 15 it seems to cut out or be random. It will then sporadically kick in, it's very random and not necessarily when I'm pedaling. I tried to clean out the back gears by the sensor, but it doesn't seem to help much, nothing really there. The throttle works fine. I only have 50 miles on the bike. This is the 2nd issue. First issue is the computer and screen seem to randomly reset. The LCD power button doesn't do anything (screen turns on when I turn the battery on, power button does nothing). Then a couple times when I've turned the bike on, all the settings go to random settings and I have to readjust everything. Juiced is sending me a new LCD screen, but didn't really ask any questions when I filed the ticket, they just replied and said they were sending me a new screen (even though I'm not sure the screen is the issue). Regardless, the screen issue wasn't that big a of deal, but the cadence issue is.
 
The LCD may fix it, but if not, the ECU would be the next thing on my list. Also, the battery connector may be at fault. Jiggle your battery when it's locked into the bike and see if the LCD cycles on and off.

At this stage, the only other piece of advice I can offer is that the cassette must sit within 5mm of the sensor and sometimes the factory assemblers put too many washers and spacers on one side of the axle (like they did on mine). I didn't have sporadic readings tho, just no torque sensing. Once I figured it out and corrected it, I had a whole new bike. Best of luck.
 
The LCD may fix it, but if not, the ECU would be the next thing on my list. Also, the battery connector may be at fault. Jiggle your battery when it's locked into the bike and see if the LCD cycles on and off.

At this stage, the only other piece of advice I can offer is that the cassette must sit within 5mm of the sensor and sometimes the factory assemblers put too many washers and spacers on one side of the axle (like they did on mine). I didn't have sporadic readings tho, just no torque sensing. Once I figured it out and corrected it, I had a whole new bike. Best of luck.
Thanks. I just tried it again after charging the battery a bit and it was worse. The pedal assist barely even worked. I'll see what Juiced has to say and try some of these suggestions.
 
Thanks. I just tried it again after charging the battery a bit and it was worse. The pedal assist barely even worked. I'll see what Juiced has to say and try some of these suggestions.
Don't worry, if you stay on it with Juiced, it will get squared away.
 
I had that problem too with the distance between the TS and the small cog. The 1st several rides were so anti climactic. Then I saw how my rear wheel was put on. I'm telling ya, they had to go outta there way to put a wheel on that badly. Once I installed it properly, I couldn't stop smiling the bike was so much better.
How did you get this fixed? I think I might have the same problem. I've been underwhelmed with performance and I can easily fit a nickel between the cadence sensor and the smallest cog, I just just dont know how to move to closer
 
How did you get this fixed? I think I might have the same problem. I've been underwhelmed with performance and I can easily fit a nickel between the cadence sensor and the smallest cog, I just just dont know how to move to closer
There is a proper way To put the rear wheel on with the spacers and washers, which one done correctly make the space the right distance between the TS and the smallest cog. I’m outside walking my dog right now, but when I get back in I’ll see if I can bring up the picture I made of the correct way to put the rear wheel on so you can see if yours is the same
 
There is a proper way To put the rear wheel on with the spacers and washers, which one done correctly make the space the right distance between the TS and the smallest cog. I’m outside walking my dog right now, but when I get back in I’ll see if I can bring up the picture I made of the correct way to put the rear wheel on so you can see if yours is the same
Awesome, thanks. I'm in touch with juiced as well, but I figure any extra help would be appreciated. This is what mine looks like right now...
 

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Awesome, thanks. I'm in touch with juiced as well, but I figure any extra help would be appreciated. This is what mine looks like right now...
Ok, the clearest pic I have of the correct orientation of the rear axle hardware is of the brake rotor side. It's exacly the opposite for the cog side (less the axle lock, which is only on the rotor side).

For installing the rear wheel...

-First, install both spacers with orientation nubs facing out onto both sides of the axle as pictured.

-Install the rear axle with its flats correctly positioned in the rear dropouts (you can use a 10mm wrench to turn the axle if needed into the dropouts)

-Next, (cog side only) install a flat washer on the axle to the outside of the dropout. Rotor side- install the axle lock, then the flat washer. Do not tighten the axle lock's allen head til the rear axle is on completely.

-Install both rear axle nuts and torque to spec.

- Lastly, install both rubber axle protectors.
RCS rear axle hardware.jpg
 
Awesome, thanks. I'm in touch with juiced as well, but I figure any extra help would be appreciated. This is what mine looks like right now...
Ok, the clearest pic I have of the correct orientation of the rear axle hardware is of the brake rotor side. It's exacly the opposite for the cog side (less the axle lock, which is only on the rotor side).

For installing the rear wheel...

-First, install both spacers with orientation nubs facing out onto both sides of the axle as pictured.

-Install the rear axle with its flats correctly positioned in the rear dropouts (you can use a 10mm wrench to turn the axle if needed into the dropouts)

-Next, (cog side only) install a flat washer on the axle to the outside of the dropout. Rotor side- install the axle lock, then the flat washer. Do not tighten the axle lock's allen head til the rear axle is on completely.

-Install both rear axle nuts and torque to spec.

- Lastly, install both rubber axle protectors.
View attachment 73381
Thanks- you know what’s interesting, then sent me this last night for moving the sensor closer to the cog. It looks simple, but not exactly sure what’s happening (were any screws removed, etc).

 
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