Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Hi. Did you ever get this resolved? I am having the same problem on my brand new Ripcurrent. I have literally taken the bike apart and put it back together again and have not found anything obviously wrong. I am beyond frustrated as I have not had any resolution from the support team at Juiced other than a generic e-mail to tell me to look on their website for some self-troubleshooting techniques. This is driving me crazy as I will take the wires apart and reconnect them and it seems to work then when I go for a ride it starts cutting out again. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Yikes...I'm having the same issue with a brand new Ripcurrent S and I basically refuse to spend hours trouble-shooting something that should be expected to work right out of the box. No obvious loose wires or connections and I'm not willing to dig further. Guess I'll call sales and see what can be done.
 
Finally got around to replacing the slipping reduction gear / motor clutch on my original Cross Current. Pretty easy if you follow the instructions in this video. The only difference is that there is no axle nut on the disc brake side of the motor. Motor type is the SWX02. The old nylon gears appeared to have little to no wear after 20k+ miles.

 

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It’s even easier than that. Not only is there no axle nut on the disk side, you don’t even have to remove the cogs! Not counting wheel R&R, this is a 5 minute job.

Yes, I have done it. And it’s not hard to find the assembly. Costs 25 to 75 bucks depending on how long you want to wait for shipping.
 
No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric bikes from Juiced Bikes as well as any help and solutions you know of. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer.

Please be respectful and constructive with feedback, this is not a space for hate speech. In many cases, representatives from the company will see feedback and use it to improve their product. In the end, the goal is to enjoy riding and help each other go further and be safer.
My juiced hyperscorpion lcd light is on but there is no text any suggestions
 
My rear hub is making grinding noises in my new bike. What's going on?
If it´s just a kinda high pitched whine It may go away once broken-in, If it is seriously grinding I´d
be alarmed. Could also be a brake that needs adjustment. What are you riding?
 
My rear hub is making grinding noises in my new bike. What's going on?
I had this problem, and still sorta have it, and so have some other RCS owners I've talked to.

What I think the grinding is caused by is poor fitment of the Shimano 9 speed cassette onto the Bafang hub due to slight manufacturing variations. My guess is it's probably the Bafang hub's variation more than the Shimano.

Juiced made me send them my rear wheel and they sent me a new one. The new cassette doesn't grind (yet), but like the original one, the entire cassette cocks ever so slightly on the hub when I put a load on the gear train making the chain on the 9th gear skip often regardless how the derailleur is adjusted. I've tightened the cassette and it still cocks slightly. The other 8 gears are fine.

I told Juiced I want to replace the OEM Shimano CS-HG201-9 cassette with a better one in case that was the problem. They had no suggestions, but there is a Shimano HG-400-9 that may work.
 
heys, I've been riding my cross current since I signed up in april 2018. I use it more of a casual work out on my days off and there have been long period of the winter (fl winter) where I have not used it. So far though aside from a thorough bike chain cleaning I have not needed to fix any parts on it. The derailer was upgraded on day one. It is other wise stored in a screened porch, against the house walls. I only ever charge the battery when I feel it is too low for my usual 12-14 mile loop. It never stays on the charger, ever.

So as the battery has aged I have noticed that the bike computer has been losing its grasp of the top charge on the battery, in that the computer keeps gauging the top charge lower and lower. This means I could be in my second ride before I start seeing notches disappearing on the battery meter. Iin the first year I could get it down to the last 2 notches, and not notice any issues. Now things are a little different... now the meter is reading half full and I am experiencing engine cut outs when high wattage is pulled. That is, pressing down fully on the throttle while at a stop, or even pedaling hard at low speeds, power is cut to the motor. If I am carful about how much power I pull, like coasting at 20mph with the throttle down it will stay powered. Also strangely enough having the front light on amplifies the symptoms exponentially, despite the led light not pulling hardly any power. Afaik this is still not happening at full charge and I will be verifying that tonight. Also I disconnected the brake cut off switches to rule them out. And lastly, the computer never power down. The motor itself simply gets its power shut off. Recovery of getting power back is fairly quick.

I looked at the diagnostic screens to find any large drops in power but I see none, at idle the battery is 48.7 volts, going up to 51 volts when power is drawn during riding. So I am having a difficult time diagnosing if its a controller issues or a battery issue. Anyone with experience with symptoms of ebikes getting older?
 
heys, I've been riding my cross current since I signed up in april 2018. I use it more of a casual work out on my days off and there have been long period of the winter (fl winter) where I have not used it. So far though aside from a thorough bike chain cleaning I have not needed to fix any parts on it. The derailer was upgraded on day one. It is other wise stored in a screened porch, against the house walls. I only ever charge the battery when I feel it is too low for my usual 12-14 mile loop. It never stays on the charger, ever.

So as the battery has aged I have noticed that the bike computer has been losing its grasp of the top charge on the battery, in that the computer keeps gauging the top charge lower and lower. This means I could be in my second ride before I start seeing notches disappearing on the battery meter. Iin the first year I could get it down to the last 2 notches, and not notice any issues. Now things are a little different... now the meter is reading half full and I am experiencing engine cut outs when high wattage is pulled. That is, pressing down fully on the throttle while at a stop, or even pedaling hard at low speeds, power is cut to the motor. If I am carful about how much power I pull, like coasting at 20mph with the throttle down it will stay powered. Also strangely enough having the front light on amplifies the symptoms exponentially, despite the led light not pulling hardly any power. Afaik this is still not happening at full charge and I will be verifying that tonight. Also I disconnected the brake cut off switches to rule them out. And lastly, the computer never power down. The motor itself simply gets its power shut off. Recovery of getting power back is fairly quick.

I looked at the diagnostic screens to find any large drops in power but I see none, at idle the battery is 48.7 volts, going up to 51 volts when power is drawn during riding. So I am having a difficult time diagnosing if its a controller issues or a battery issue. Anyone with experience with symptoms of ebikes getting older?
 
The last sentence in your post is very revealing. The voltage should go down, not up, when you apply load. But you said it went from 48.7 to 51 volts.

After a full charge you should see a little over 53 volts under no load, and a volt less at around 600 watts. I'm not really sure if you can trust the voltmeter on the display. You can pull the battery and check its voltage with a meter to see if the no load value is the same.

From your usage patterns, you shouldn't have battery aging issues, though I suppose you could have a bad cell.

Best thing to do is watch the battery voltage as you run down the battery from a full charge.
 
Plug it into the charger and leave it for a long time, unless you charge to full your battery has no chance to balance the cells, and it most likely you have been letting your pack get more and more out of balance. Plug it in and leave it for 24hrs, contrary to what you might believe that will not hurt the pack at all. balancing is a very slow operation, and if you have been letting it get out of balance it may take actually a few times for the pack to get back in balance and top voltage, because balancing works by discharging the higher voltage cells on the BMS systems used in the low cost batteries rather than charging up the lower cells more. after 24hrs I'd ride the bike a while, bring it home and plug it in for another 12 hrs ride it again and then charge it to full again.

You are running a 48V Nominal battery system or 52V Nominal?
 
So after the full charge and sitting at 53.6 (and just minor differences under load) I again wasn't seeing any cut out issues at all. So I'll go ahead with keeping the battery topped off the next several runs as to make sure there isn't an imbalance in cells.
 
New RipCurrent S Step Through throttle Error 4 when using throttle only in S and R modes. Throttle cuts out and displays Error 4 on the display. I have an older RipCurrent S and swapped the thumb throttle. That seems to have fixed the error and the motor does not cut out. Ticket already submitted with Juiced.
 
on the hyperscorp, does the 1-4 disconnect down at the controller? or do i definitely have to pull it out backwards and wiggle through the downtube slit to get it out?

all i probably *need* to do is splice the severed throttle line, but looking at the current 1-4 situation, i'm considering swapping out that section entirely to make future mods easier. i guess the more efficient question is: is there a detailed wiring diagram out there? the one on their site is modestly blurred out, hentai-style.
 
Oh! Or would it be neater to open up the throttle and splice in the length of wire i need at the very end there? for today's fix)
 
Scrambler issue...
Power up all charged
Throttle twist....nothing
Disconnected the brake lever cable connections (OHMed good open circuit - closed circuit when pressed)....
turn throttle nothing... (1k ohms between pin 1 and 3) ) (open circuit between 1 and 2) (mega ohms between 2 and 3) - no resistance change when turning the throttle) encoder maybe?
Two fuses... look good....

digging a little more--- Just the facts Mam... haha
electric wheel does not propel the bike in torque more...
electric wheel does not propel the bike in standard throttle mode..
Controller is powered because the display is indicating correctly and I can get into advance programming mode...

checked all connections, looks like maybe a bad controller not putting out voltage to the wheel?... any one have a pin out diagram of the controller output to the electric wheel?




NO ERROR CODES...
Thanks folks!!!!

I am a retired electrical engineer... I can test any component if I know what to look for....
having the exact same poblem with my scrambler...any updated resolution???
 
It’s even easier than that. Not only is there no axle nut on the disk side, you don’t even have to remove the cogs! Not counting wheel R&R, this is a 5 minute job.

Yes, I have done it. And it’s not hard to find the assembly. Costs 25 to 75 bucks depending on how long you want to wait for shipping.
Thanks for the words of encouragement, @Dunbar and &PeteH! My rear wheel has been making all sorts of unholy sounds and feeling like it wants to seize. After much time and tinkering, I’m convinced it’s something in the hub itself - maybe the clutch/gearing mechanism in that video. Unfortunately I can’t reproduce the sound on a stand (as Juiced requested i do for warranty), only under load while riding. Juiced has made it clear that if I crack open the hub, it voids the warranty. But I’m just about at the point where I’ll try anything. Just so I’m clear, the motor is Bafang SWX02. Do you know what the gear mechanism is? I have a RipCurrent. Thanks friends.
 
Is there a manual/guidance on changing tires? I finally encountered my first flat today : - ( for the record, I suspect it was simply glass or something and I have successfully commuted daily for the past four months. I have about 1,000 miles on the bike before this first flat.

the rear tire is flat. I've only changed a tire on my pedal bike like once. I don't want to screw up anything. are there any special tips/tricks for changing a flat on a rear hub motor setup? Separately - is there any guidance that I should share with a bike mechanic if I take it to a shop? I want to do this myself but I don't have a stand, or any tools.

Thanks in advance!!
Turn the bike upside-down on its handle bars. Make sure the control screen is turned aside to avoid damage. Should be able to easily repair the tire. If a Fat tire, make sure the tire is deflated during installation. I ride the Juiced Ripcurrent.
 
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