Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

I have a CCS with the 48v 19ah battery. Well, the connection between the bike and battery melted down on me. I contacted Juiced support but they said due to safety issues they do not sell the connector for the battery. Any suggestions as to how to get my bike up and running without throwing down a wad of money?

See photos of the connector on the battery. The connector on the frame of the bike looks just as bad.
You can get the connectors here usually.

You might also be able to find a local shop that does e-bike batteries to fix it up, if you don't want to try replacing the connectors yourself. The one on the bike should be pretty straight forward. Not sure about the battery, but I think it is OK if you know a little about this stuff.
 
Hello, I've had my CC bike for about 1 month now and I truly enjoy it. I use it as a replacement for my car during the summer. I live in New Jersey and there are a lot of hills. I don't know if these are known issues but I do have a couple of problems with my bike. First is my chain has derailed while on the road about 3 different times in this past month. Secondly, I've tried to use the USB plug on the battery and get no output. is this not supposed to be a power source?
The battery usb has had problems in the past. I was watching EBR review and remember hearing that they shut it off to prevent any battery damage as well as phone damage
 
The clutch/gear assembly in the motor started to slip last night on my 2016 Cross Current with about 18k miles on it. Sent an e-mail to Juiced Bikes to see if they can sell me a new rear wheel assembly. Would rather not try replacing the clutch myself. Based on @youth and his experience with this issue I figure that I have 6-9 months before it gets really bad.
 
The clutch/gear assembly in the motor started to slip last night on my 2016 Cross Current with about 18k miles on it. Sent an e-mail to Juiced Bikes to see if they can sell me a new rear wheel assembly. Would rather not try replacing the clutch myself. Based on @youth and his experience with this issue I figure that I have 6-9 months before it gets really bad.
Just went through the same thing. It started somewhere around Thanksgiving IIRC. I finally decided to go ahead and buy the new rear wheel assembly and it's at the LBS for installation now. I could still ride it but it took more and more tries to hit that sweet spot where it didn't slip. If I carefully feathered the throttle, very lightly, it was more likely to work, and then I could pedal. I could still be riding it that way now, but it worsened over time and I figured there would come a day when I had ridden the 5 miles into town and it just wouldn't catch at all. So I bought the new rear wheel. They should have them in stock but I wouldn't delay. I had to wait a couple of months for a shipment to arrive from China. Get it while you can, Dunbar.
 
Just went through the same thing. It started somewhere around Thanksgiving IIRC. I finally decided to go ahead and buy the new rear wheel assembly and it's at the LBS for installation now.

Thanks Bruce, weirdly right now it only seems to happen when I’m turning. I guess the side load causes the clutch to slip. I’ve noticed that the website has been showing out of stock on the rear wheel assemblies for a while. Hopefully they have some in the warehouse to use for tech support issues.
 
Thanks Bruce, weirdly right now it only seems to happen when I’m turning. I guess the side load causes the clutch to slip. I’ve noticed that the website has been showing out of stock on the rear wheel assemblies for a while. Hopefully they have some in the warehouse to use for tech support issues.
I'm curious if anyone has looked into higher speed motor windings and if Juiced offers one for the CCS/CCX. My motor has been trouble free thus far, but when its time for a replacement, I am willing to sacrifice some low speed torque for a few more mph on the top end. I would love to stick with a "plug and play" wheel rather than trying to wire in a new connector. Along those lines, does anyone know what the maximum voltage capability of these bike are before the controller/motor/ etc gets fried. I would be willing to stay with the same motor winding with a 60V battery pack, but at full charge that is 67.2V.
 
"As it turned out, I’d lost power thanks to a faulty cable, which the company quickly replaced once I took it to a dealer, free of charge. The same thing happened on my commuter e-bike, a Juiced CrossCurrent X, a couple of months ago, as I was pedaling it up a steep hill near my house. Juiced has no customer service phone support, and through a frustrating email exchange I learned I’d have to pay to ship the rear wheel back to the company so they could “inspect” before replacing what was broken, and more than a month after they received it, that hasn’t happened. You can’t just wheel an e-bike into a shop and get back on the road again, when it breaks. "

 
Is there a manual/guidance on changing tires? I finally encountered my first flat today : - ( for the record, I suspect it was simply glass or something and I have successfully commuted daily for the past four months. I have about 1,000 miles on the bike before this first flat.

the rear tire is flat. I've only changed a tire on my pedal bike like once. I don't want to screw up anything. are there any special tips/tricks for changing a flat on a rear hub motor setup? Separately - is there any guidance that I should share with a bike mechanic if I take it to a shop? I want to do this myself but I don't have a stand, or any tools.

Thanks in advance!!
I have an ocean current and I have suffered flats on front and back. On the rear I just took my plastic pry bars once I knew where the object was in the tire and popped off that section of the tire and pulled the tube out probably about 6 inches. I patched the tube, tucked it back in after checking to make sure that the object that caused the flat in the first place was not still there. I ran my fingers along the inside of the tire itself to check. This way you don't have to pop off the whole rear wheel and it saves you lots of time. Hope this helps!
 
That night and day difference between Specialized and Juiced support is pretty striking there.

The main advantage to Specialized is that you can take the bike to your local dealer to have it repaired. Their mid-drive motors seem to have their fair share of issues if you look at the Specialized forum. I have owned Specialized road bikes and once had to leave it at my dealer for a month to be repaired. If you can’t DIY repairs, or don’t have a shop locally who can work on it for you, I don’t recommend buying a direct to consumer e-bike. Specialized makes some nice e-bikes but they are considerably more expensive than a comparably spec’d Juiced Bike.
 
The main advantage to Specialized is that you can take the bike to your local dealer to have it repaired. Their mid-drive motors seem to have their fair share of issues if you look at the Specialized forum. I have owned Specialized road bikes and once had to leave it at my dealer for a month to be repaired. If you can’t DIY repairs, or don’t have a shop locally who can work on it for you, I don’t recommend buying a direct to consumer e-bike. Specialized makes some nice e-bikes but they are considerably more expensive than a comparably spec’d Juiced Bike.


Direct to consumer or not this is just not good warranty service " through a frustrating email exchange I learned I’d have to pay to ship the rear wheel back to the company so they could “inspect” before replacing what was broken, and more than a month after they received it, that hasn’t happened."
 
Direct to consumer or not this is just not good warranty service " through a frustrating email exchange I learned I’d have to pay to ship the rear wheel back to the company so they could “inspect” before replacing what was broken, and more than a month after they received it, that hasn’t happened."

Like I said, I was without a Specialized road bike for 6 weeks while they tried to repair a crack in the carbon fiber frame and then, reluctantly, supplied a warranty frame. I knew the repair wouldn’t work (and it didn’t) but it took weeks before I had my bike back to ride. I’ve also seen threads in the Specialized forum of people having recurring problems with their mid-drive motors. Trust me, just because there’s a big brand name behind the bike doesn’t mean they’re going to fix it in a timely manner. Yes, there is value in letting the dealer handle warranty repairs but you are going to pay significantly more for a bike bought through a dealer network.
 
That doesn't negate what I quoted. I'm sorry that you had a rough experience with Specialized but my experience with other bike companies has been great. For example I recently bought a full suspension Raleigh MTB direct from factory, with factory pricing, so no dealer was involved. Came with a bent rotor. After a 20 minute phone call and a 2 day Fedex shipment later I had 2 new rotors. They answered the phone, their was no 48 + hour response time per email, and no requesting that I send the part back first for inspection.
 
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