Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

So thanks that does help me make up mind a little. Customer service after the fact is important. Especially after spending a few grand. Its too bad but at least my list got shorter.
Let us know what you end up purchasing instead and how it goes.
 
So thanks that does help me make up mind a little. Customer service after the fact is important. Especially after spending a few grand. Its too bad but at least my list got shorter.
To be fair, I still ride the CCS occasionally. It has 7000 mi , 3000 on a replacement motor,(not from juiced) The battery is still good.
It has a bit of a wonky wobble under 14 mph, but still basically rideable. I initially thought it was the fork, but now believe it has
something to do with the asymetrical stays angling the rear wheel slightly out of line. I think that was done to accommodate
the 9 spd cassette. I don't know if that's been changed on recent models. The CCX has to be an improved version.
 
Discovered this a few months ago when swapping back to the stock forks on my CCX. If you ever want to replace them check the axle diameter. Standard size is 9mm and my CCX came with a 10mm axle. I used it with a retired Rock Shox fork not realizing this because it would still fit in 9mm dropout tightly albeit cutting up the inside walls on the threads. Got a new fork and have modified the axle so it should be a slip fit without gouging the dropouts.
43762
 
I used a surly 42t stainless steel chainring since day 1. Its good to 28mph at 90rpm cadence.

I di resize the chain and have never had the chain dropoff in 3k miles. Many people seem to like narrow/wide chainrings for chain retention.
Thanks Link-that sounds just about right for me!
I used a surly 42t stainless steel chainring since day 1. Its good to 28mph at 90rpm cadence.

I di resize the chain and have never had the chain dropoff in 3k miles. Many people seem to like narrow/wide chainrings for chain retention.
Thanks Link- that sounds just about right for me! Is the Surly narrow/wide?
 
As an experiment i just did 12 miles on the NCM 28T which used only 16% of charge, great way to extend range
if yur into basically pedaling 60+ pds. of bike & gear with but the slightest use of power, My legs are feeling
a tad rubbery.
 
You guys have me interested in changing my CCX front chain ring to something a little smaller than the stock one - I need to climb hills more than I need 30 MPH. Will I need new cranks as well or will a new chain ring fit with the old cranks? Anyone have pics of a replaced chain ring on the bike?
 
are the newer batteries still shipping with the USB inop? I hope not, I just ordered a USB powered bike light.

2017 I'm a bit late but have a couple of suggestions for those wanting a USB solution on an eBike.
Ok first the phone holder innovation is a common decent holder but with a USB jack on it, you might be thinking yeah nice try but, my bike voltage is too high. Problem solved, this holder supports 12-85V internally to give you 5v 2.4amps to charge your phone or devices properly. Link: $18.99 https://amzn.to/2yZB0UM

A second option is,
In the event, you want to run at 12v off your 36-72v system get this.
Pro Chaser DC-DC 48V 60V 72V Step Down to 12V Voltage Reducer Converter Regulator 420W 35A $35.99 Easy to install.
https://amzn.to/2Wh8NRs
Then to add USB you could either add a cigar socket or one of many 12v to USB sockets. Here is a combined solution. https://amzn.to/2Yt2CMT
Fuse everything you add!
Waterproof in-Line ATC Fuse Holder
 
MY CCS is now a parts bike if anyone needs something. I'm keeping the wheel & motor
I used to replace the original. Most parts are still functional. Grips are badly worn.
display & controller are shot, & the frame is really wonky.
 
MY CCS is now a parts bike if anyone needs something. I'm keeping the wheel & motor
I used to replace the original. Most parts are still functional. Grips are badly worn.
display & controller are shot, & the frame is really wonky.

sounds like a deal! :cool:
 
Haven't had to use one yet, but I got a replacement connector from some scooter parts site for around $5. I suspect Juiced charges more.
Oops, checked Juiced just now, They want $49 for the whole assembly. they don't sell just the male connector.
Important! The attachment to put your keys on a ring is very flimsy. It will break & you will lose a key. Drill a hole in the thicker part
of the key to put it on a ring. JUICED does not sell replacement keys, & blanks that will work to make a new one are virtually
non-existent. If you lose both, your only option is to buy the whole assembly from juiced, $49. I am no longer as enamored of
Juiced as I was for the first 3000 miles. I recently purchased what I believe is a much better all-round bike for less than half what
I spent for my first edition CCS. Technology has advanced considerably since then. I get more range from this 13Ah battery than I
every could with the CCS 21Ah (That has been discontinued) That battery performs as well as it did 7000 miles ago, but
still can't take me as far as the 13Ah, That has more to do with the German motor & controller program.

Hello John. What new bike did you get? If you wanted a throttle and similar budget to the CCX, what ebike would you recommend? Your feedback is appreciated. Thx. Dave.
 
Anyone with a fairly recent Ripcurrent S, I recommend you take some time to adjust the cheap front suspension fork we were given. Mine came with set at 100 PSI and according to Juiced this is correct, but at that pressure no matter what the control dial is set at it behaves like a fixed fork almost. I recommend you adjust it looking at something in to 50-60 PSI range (but it will depend on your weight). I've been riding with my adjusted pressure now for a couple of weeks, and it's working much better on the trails, poor dirt/gravel roads, and on asphalt pot-holes.
 
I've had some issues with my chain falling off the chainring and getting stuck between the teeth and the outer plate. I think I need to increase the tension in my chain but I'm not sure how to do this. Any tips?
Hello,
When i first got my rip current last month the chain was skipping gears and getting stuck. I checked my derailuer and it was angled just a bit to cause the problem. The first thing i did was make an adjustment to the derailuer. Its very simple there is an adjustment barrel knob on the deraileur.
Looking from the back of the derailuer your upper and lower pulley should be in line with the the sprocket your chain is on. Turn the barrel knob until it is lined up. This is a fine adjustment so it may only take a few full turns or less . Once you line it up have someone shift all the gears while you watch where the chain falls. It may take a couple adjustments but it corrected mine and ot shift perfectly.You could also watch Park tools derailuer adjustments . Hope this is helpful.
DACB68FA-C6F1-4895-B29F-5B505800D2F8.jpeg
 
Hello,
When i first got my rip current last month the chain was skipping gears and getting stuck. I checked my derailuer and it was angled just a bit to cause the problem. The first thing i did was make an adjustment to the derailuer. Its very simple there is an adjustment barrel knob on the deraileur.
Looking from the back of the derailuer your upper and lower pulley should be in line with the the sprocket your chain is on. Turn the barrel knob until it is lined up. This is a fine adjustment so it may only take a few full turns or less . Once you line it up have someone shift all the gears while you watch where the chain falls. It may take a couple adjustments but it corrected mine and ot shift perfectly.You could also watch Park tools derailuer adjustments . Hope this is helpful.
View attachment 56985
I'm about to write my 1000Km review of my RCS and I will talk about a similar problem. I believe yours is the same problem. The derailleur has what is known as the 'B' screw, or Tension screw. However on my bike there is an installation issue as this adjustment has almost no effect it does not even engage the derailleur except at it's tightest position. I believe this is a installation issue with the Stop washer not correctly positioned, but I would have to take it apart to confirm invalid placement or incorrect parts. In any case this adjustment effectively does not work in my case, you can see it is totally ineffective, it is one of the bigger quality control problems I've had on my bike.

Luckily for me I could get a position that worked, being able to just have the stop engage the derailleur at the right point, I had about 1mm to play with and luckily that was enough.

At the setting it came adjusted at it had absolutely no affect on the derailleur what so ever, yet the screw had lok-tite on it. Basically, this adjustment was never done or checked at the factory. :(
 
I have a CCS with the 48v 19ah battery. Well, the connection between the bike and battery melted down on me. I contacted Juiced support but they said due to safety issues they do not sell the connector for the battery. Any suggestions as to how to get my bike up and running without throwing down a wad of money?

See photos of the connector on the battery. The connector on the frame of the bike looks just as bad.
 

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Hello,
When i first got my rip current last month the chain was skipping gears and getting stuck. I checked my derailuer and it was angled just a bit to cause the problem. The first thing i did was make an adjustment to the derailuer. Its very simple there is an adjustment barrel knob on the deraileur.
Looking from the back of the derailuer your upper and lower pulley should be in line with the the sprocket your chain is on. Turn the barrel knob until it is lined up. This is a fine adjustment so it may only take a few full turns or less . Once you line it up have someone shift all the gears while you watch where the chain falls. It may take a couple adjustments but it corrected mine and ot shift perfectly.You could also watch Park tools derailuer adjustments . Hope this is helpful.
View attachment 56985


This never worked for me on the CSS. Where I live the roads are pothole ridden (outside Boston) and the only thing that worked 100% was getting a narrow wide chain ring in combination with having a few links less on the chain. In my case the new chain I bought just happened to be a few links less. My odometer has reset three times on me between 1500 - 2000 miles so I have put roughly 5000 miles on it. Around 2000 have been with the narrow wide, on the same chain, with no drops.

Thread here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/any-chain-drop-solutions-on-the-ccx.28486/page-4

Which reminds me has anyone else had their odometer randomly reset to 0?
 
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