madmulcher
New Member
looking for a front fender/mud guard for my 2013 izip zuma e3, 26 inch 1.25 wheel/tire.
Ann M.
Well-Known Member
@madmulcher , did you change out the original tires for some that are more narrow? I recollect that the width would have been 1.95. There are a number of good fenders with mud flaps that will work on these older iZips, they usually come in sets. Check out Planet Bike Freddy Fenders that come in a 45mm width, or Sunlite full fenders with mudflaps which will accommodate a wider tire and have good support struts. Available at most bike shops and on the internet, not expensive. If you really do need the more narrow type, most will have options on width.
I was looking at those as well, but I haven't had the money to do anything with the bike at the moment.
OK, so I *TRIED* to install a rear rack on this bike today to no avail. I'm financially challenged, so I couldn't afford the Topeak rack that I wanted (planned on writing about it on a blog that I've started). I ended up finding a "generic" rack by Transit (TD 1 model) on sale at a local Performance Bicycle Shop (I believe transit may be their store brand - anyone know for sure?). Anyway, it doesn't work and I would suggest you do not consider this rack for this bike. It is supposed to be a generic fit, but it doesn't include the right hardware needed for the Zuma (unless someone wants to tell me something to the contrary). Anyway, FYI and once I get the money, I'll try to get the Topeak rack and see if that works. I really wish iZip made an in house rack designed for these bikes (if they do, I cannot find it).
J.R.
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Piedmont Highlands
I buy a lot of Topeak stuff, top notch. I've had the Bontrager rack and bag (link below) on two bikes and like it very much. I don't know if they're less expensive. Make sure you order the correct size rack for your frame (18 in?) and you need the disc brake model.
Rack: http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/bontrager-backrack-l-disc-154676-1.htm
Bag: http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.co...nterchange-rear-trunk-deluxe-bag-179328-1.htm
Rack: http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/bontrager-backrack-l-disc-154676-1.htm
Bag: http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.co...nterchange-rear-trunk-deluxe-bag-179328-1.htm
Part of the problem is the boss locations on the rear frame of the Zuma. I've included some pictures so that you can see where my problem is. On the left side of the bike, there are two holes that are side by side and they are right below where the brake caliper is. On the right side, the two holes are vertical (one on top of the other) and they are towards the rear of the bike where the frame curves down right above the axle. The holes on the left side are probably something like an inch and a half or so forward of where the holes on the right side are. So if I were to bolt it on, the rack ends up crooked since the holes on either side of the bike do not line up.
Every other rack that I have looked at seems to be identical to mine where there are basically just the two posts/legs (whatever you want to call them) that come straight down and bolt to the frame. I've only seen two people on the 'net with a Zuma who have a rack on it, so I know there has to be a way to get something to work. I don't know if they fabricated a bracket or what and I can't get them to answer my questions or post up pictures.
Here are pics so that you can see what I'm talking about:
Left side (sorry, I don't know why it's posting the pic sideways when it should be vertical)
Right side
Video:
grench
Well-Known Member
You may have to do a little bending of the legs on the rack. This is not hard to do. Check out you tube. You can use a small steel pipe which will slip over the leg and a vice to hold the other end. If you rack is tubular you can use a small tubing bender. Take your time and bend in small increments.
There is a bolt that I can take out (would have to replace with a longer one obviously) on the left side that is holding a bracket in place right above the axle. I went back and played around with it yesterday and I think it will work, I just don't have the right length bolt handy at the moment (short one is too short and the long one ends up sticking into the disc - I don't have anything to cut it down to size at this moment). If I use that point, it comes pretty close to lining up with the holes on the right side of the bike. I have to work all day today and tomorrow morning, so I will probably mess around with it tomorrow afternoon after I get home. If all else fails, I'll try to see how much I can bend the rack as you suggest.
Here is a pic showing the point I'm talking about (silver bolt on the black bracket right above axle - brake cable is pointing at it):
Here is a pic showing the point I'm talking about (silver bolt on the black bracket right above axle - brake cable is pointing at it):
grench
Well-Known Member
That screw/bolt looks like it is the torque arm. This anchor point to keep the rear axle from spinning needs to be relatively tight. The material of construction on your rack may be softer than the torque arm material?? You may not be able to tighten the bolt/screw to the proper torque without crushing the rack material. A thought might be to consider small washers on bothe sides of the rack leg. Another option would be to use a different hole? Another could be to drill and tap a small hole for the rack. Another would be to use a clamp round one of the frame bars?? Lots of options just take your time and look for the best solution and check the torque requirements for your torque arm.
Good point on that - I wasn't thinking about that being the torque arm. The bolt that holds it in place is TINY anyway and wasn't very tight, but good point nonetheless. Drilling out new holds is definitely a possibility, but I really don't want to do that and I really shouldn't have to. Definitely an option, but I'll keep that as a last resort.
Anyway, small update from today - I realized that the bolts that come with the rack kit are M5's and will not fit into the holes on my bike (started stripping the threads when I tried doing the install). I went and bought some M4 bolts that will go through the holes, but now I have spacing issues and I'm not sure if the two included spacers will do the job or not.
I know these pics aren't the greatest, but it's the best I could do one handed. One pic shows about where the rack *should* be for it to be centered on the bike - you can see how much space is between the arms/legs of the rack and where the frame is. Since the kit included two separate sized spacers (one long and one short), I'm not sure if they will fill in the gaps. The other two pics show how much space is left on either side if I were to bolt the rack tight on one side or the other (obviously rack would not be centered in that case either). I also gave bending it a bit of a try, but I can hear the metal starting to stress and don't want it to crack/break.
I really wish the two people I reached out to on the 'net would have gotten back to me on how they installed theirs, but I have yet to hear back from them. I don't see any of the other higher dollar racks out there being a solution since they all install the same way and really, this shouldn't take five minutes to do. Either that or this is one of those things that is so incredibly stupid easy and I'm just missing something obvious
Anyone know why these are pasting in sideways when they are vertical pictures???? I can't fix - anyway, this is the "centered" rack pic
If bolted down on the left:
And if bolted down on the right:
OK, so several trips to Home Depot later and some time sweating to death in the Texas heat, I was able to get this installed today. So all I ended up doing was this - I ended up using the shorter of the two spacers on the right side of the bike. With that spacer in place, the left side of the rack lined up where it was supposed to on the left side of the bike. A combination of appropriate length bolts, spacers, and nuts and the rack was installed. It's still not really 100% perfect, but it will do until I can find a better quality rack. I can actually pick the bike up using the rack, so it's sturdy enough. I took a ten mile ride to check out how it works and to make sure everything stayed nice and tight - did the trick and it was only $23. Pics:
No luggage yet, so I just used a bag and a bungie net. Like I said, it's not 100% perfect in fit and alignment, but it will work until I can get something better down the road.
No luggage yet, so I just used a bag and a bungie net. Like I said, it's not 100% perfect in fit and alignment, but it will work until I can get something better down the road.
Haven't done any updates in a while, so here's one. School started this week and I've been riding my Zuma to and from school (about 20 miles). It's nice because I get the exercise and I also don't have to deal with campus parking (which appears to be rather horrible this year). Anyway, here is a pic of my bike kitted out for the commute (need to find a better pannier system though, this bag is just too small for what I'm hauling).
Ed I
New Member
How is the zuma on hills?
Sorry on the dealy - haven't been on for a while. For the slight ones in my area, it is fine and that's even keeping it in PAS 1. I've upped the PAS level to max a few times and it charges right up. I can't attest to its ability on anything extremely steep though, but I would imagine it do OK.
JoeinJP
Member
Wow! You sure need some power to recharge that bike.View attachment 8394 In keeping with my electricity theme (and I still cannot figure out why the pics show up sideways). Also, I'm working on my photog skills and I'm starting to play around with Instagram filters, so humor me
