is this normal ha ha (tsdz2 rust)

Region
Europe
soooooo long story short, there's a shop in Berlin i'd heard good things about so i decided to give them a shot on my next build. they have refurbished TSDZ2s for a bit cheaper than new ones and considering they came with a warranty i figured why not. i tried to power it up today after getting it installed, no luck. after some troubleshooting i decide to pop the cover off the motor so i can do some point to point tests with the multimeter and,,,, as you can see i was a bit surprised! i'm guessing it's not supposed to look like that???
 

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Negative those motors are dime a dozen.
Install a fresh motor not refurbished and get back on the saddle.
I hate rust I recently replaced bolts on my ebikes with Titanium so I don't have to deal with rust.
new one is on the way, from a vendor i've used before and trust. so much for the "buy local" crowd i'm sticking with aliexpress from now on lol.
 
I had that happen to one motor out of many. During the shutdowns/lockdowns and restarts of factories it was really difficult for them to restart assembly lines exactly where they stopped. This is a global QC issue whose scope is across all industries, and also impacting sub-components. With that one they forgot to use O-ring lube, so water could get in. Sometimes I will open them and use gasket sealant between the two halves. Remember, These are not dive watches. They are water resistant but not waterproof and cannot be immersed.
 
I had that happen to one motor out of many. During the shutdowns/lockdowns and restarts of factories it was really difficult for them to restart assembly lines exactly where they stopped. This is a global QC issue whose scope is across all industries, and also impacting sub-components. With that one they forgot to use O-ring lube, so water could get in. Sometimes I will open them and use gasket sealant between the two halves. Remember, These are not dive watches. They are water resistant but not waterproof and cannot be immersed.
i was hoping for a response from you, that makes sense and gives me something to look out for on the new ones. this was apparently repaired at a tongsheng factory in Paris, enerprof said they are looking into getting me a replacement so fingers crossed that warranty holds up.

i'll post some pics of the build when i'm done. i'm trying to copy one of the minimal coaster brake bikes i've seen you do.
 
It is very important to roll the bike backwards slightly then give a 4mm tap on the pedal before starting, with you feet away from the pedals. Otherwise the tare will show an error code of E6. The torque sensor resets at each start when turning the bike on. For coaster brakes this zero point must be exact so the motor can turn off with back pressure and go with forward pressure. Also, ease pedal pressure before braking or you will get a kick from the residual drivetrain momentum feeding into the torque sensor. The speed sensor can be eliminated and the speed set at 45K with a wheel circumference at 100cm.
 

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Here is the basic anatomy of the internal controller. From left to right clockwise. The left top wire is to the torque sensor wire. The big red and black to to the battery, the black end to the display, and the yellow tipped to the speed sensor. The wires to the right are feed back from the motor. The bottom are input into the motor. And see the six moffsetes long the bottom. The bump to the lower right is the cadence sensor.
 

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