So how is this build holding up? Is this the Tsdz2b with OSF?
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Stealthy Cruiser EBike
- Thread starter mikeschn
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mikeschn
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I don't have version B, and I don't have OSF. I have the ECO mod though...
It's a nice riding bike, and it's holding up well. I've been having fits with the v brakes though, and thought I might upgrade to disc. But that plan didn't work. So now I am looking for some really good V brake pads...
It's a nice riding bike, and it's holding up well. I've been having fits with the v brakes though, and thought I might upgrade to disc. But that plan didn't work. So now I am looking for some really good V brake pads...
mikeschn
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Any suggestions for really good V brake pads?
I was looking on Amazon, and came across this (see photo)... are ebike V brakes supposed to be a bit mushy?
Here's the link to the V brakes: https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-126M5...efix=tektro+ebike+v+brakes,sporting,87&sr=1-4
I was looking on Amazon, and came across this (see photo)... are ebike V brakes supposed to be a bit mushy?
Here's the link to the V brakes: https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-126M5...efix=tektro+ebike+v+brakes,sporting,87&sr=1-4
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tomjasz
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KoolStop ebike pads on my bikes.
I used these instead of OEM my Smoothie came with. A definite improvement, and with KoolStop ebike pads it’s a 26” disc brake. Almost true…
And yes I’d call the feel mushy compared to my BB7 mechanical disc brakes.
I used these instead of OEM my Smoothie came with. A definite improvement, and with KoolStop ebike pads it’s a 26” disc brake. Almost true…
And yes I’d call the feel mushy compared to my BB7 mechanical disc brakes.
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mikeschn
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I have one of these springers in the basement. I wonder if I should at least try it with a disc brake?
ratrodbikes.com
Electra Straight 8 build and Ebike conversion
I’m new to the forum and going to try my first build thread. I’m starting with an Electra Straight 8 I’ve had since 2017. Originally bought to cruise around Long Beach when I was in LA for work. It was perfect on the beach, super comfortable and a style I always liked. Fast forward to now and...
ratrodbikes.com
tomjasz
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PedalUma
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Big box bikes will often use inexpensive cables. The fifty-cent cables are not slick and are spongy. They also get white corrosion. There are $4 Comp cables that are more than twice as good, then their are the Pro highly polished treated cables that are $23 each. Housings give the cable something to compress against and slide thru. Cheep ones have give and compress making the action spongy and they are not internally slick so the cable has lag, it is slow. You notice this with delayed up shifts and when braking. Jagwire has some nice housings and I am digging the Bontrager line of cables. They even have some that are nicely over three meters for big bikes and full suspension bikes with complex internal routings. I can sometimes score tandem cable from Trek. Which is great for folks like @m@Robertson.
Bike cables & housing - Trek Bikes
Whether you're building up a new frame or maintaining that trusty old steed, you'll find the bike cables and housing to help you dial in the mechanicals.
mikeschn
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Getting back to the question of mushy brakes, do the cables need to be supported on the frame on both ends. My cable is only supported on the brake lever, and on the brake noodle. there are two lugs on the frame, but they are through lugs only. What if instead of a through lug, I were to make the cable end there with that metal housing end cap (ferrule), shown...??? and same thing down closer to the v brake noodle...???
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m@Robertson
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I *think* the cable housings @PedalUma is talking about are also known as 'compressionless' and those are supposed to offer light years' better (less mushy) performance over your typical stock kaka housings. On my Envoy build I tried using a set of cabled BB7's I had in the parts pile to save money. On that longtail, rear brake performance was appallingly bad and the thoughts of the cargo bike community were that the long cable run suffered from not using quality housing. In the end I wound up going hydraulic to solve the problem (only one of several) and never took that further.
![41+ukqLFTXS._AC_SL1000_[1].jpg](https://forums.electricbikereview.com/attachments/41-ukqlftxs-_ac_sl1000_-1-jpg.137547/ "41+ukqLFTXS._AC_SL1000_[1].jpg")
The more the cables can flex, the more they absorb your lever motion rather than moving the cable. You want to try and lock that cable down. This is essentially the same thing that compressionless cable housing is supposed to do. So for all I know just buying the better housing will be enough (I think it probably will), but it cannot hurt to secure your cables. Also, in lieu of these doodads you can do a crisscross of very small zip ties - the 4" kind that are so small it won't even be noticeable you used them. Run the ties thru the cable boss, with the cable running next to the boss and held fast by the 'x' of the two ties. Tuck the little end blocks up against the frame so they are effectively invisible.
There are widgets to deal with this old-style one-piece cable guide. I used them on my Tracer build, which was a frame from 1999, back before good cable housing / slick cables existed, so the technique of the day was to use ferruled ends and bare cables for much of a cable run. These things:
The more the cables can flex, the more they absorb your lever motion rather than moving the cable. You want to try and lock that cable down. This is essentially the same thing that compressionless cable housing is supposed to do. So for all I know just buying the better housing will be enough (I think it probably will), but it cannot hurt to secure your cables. Also, in lieu of these doodads you can do a crisscross of very small zip ties - the 4" kind that are so small it won't even be noticeable you used them. Run the ties thru the cable boss, with the cable running next to the boss and held fast by the 'x' of the two ties. Tuck the little end blocks up against the frame so they are effectively invisible.
mikeschn
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@m@Robertson
That's a real good idea, those clamps. I just have to get some of those and try them...
Meanwhile, here's what I was doing while I was waiting for your clamps!
I printed a couple ferrules and I am going to cut the cable up, and have a short piece of housing at the front, and a short piece of housing at the rear, and the rest will be bare wire! Let's see what happens!
That's a real good idea, those clamps. I just have to get some of those and try them...
Meanwhile, here's what I was doing while I was waiting for your clamps!
I printed a couple ferrules and I am going to cut the cable up, and have a short piece of housing at the front, and a short piece of housing at the rear, and the rest will be bare wire! Let's see what happens!
PedalUma
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I like continuous housing runs best. I suspect that older road bikes had bare cable to save grams. I am conscious of weight but don't need to be a weeny about grams. I like to feel the cable action by hand to see if there are any hang ups, like on the ends or too much of a tight bend somewhere.
mikeschn
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I didn't have to swap any parts. I decided the V brake noodle was the mushy spot. I went to the LBS and got a new noodle. Also my new brake pads came in, so I put those on too. Now the brakes are working pretty good. Not mushy any more...
But I did order the cable clamps... I'll try those when then come in...
But I did order the cable clamps... I'll try those when then come in...
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