So how is this build holding up? Is this the Tsdz2b with OSF?@EMGX
It's called 860C display... I ordered it with the TDSZ2 from EcoCycles!
View attachment 136886
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So how is this build holding up? Is this the Tsdz2b with OSF?@EMGX
It's called 860C display... I ordered it with the TDSZ2 from EcoCycles!
View attachment 136886
?HQ housing and cables
Big box bikes will often use inexpensive cables. The fifty-cent cables are not slick and are spongy. They also get white corrosion. There are $4 Comp cables that are more than twice as good, then their are the Pro highly polished treated cables that are $23 each. Housings give the cable something to compress against and slide thru. Cheep ones have give and compress making the action spongy and they are not internally slick so the cable has lag, it is slow. You notice this with delayed up shifts and when braking. Jagwire has some nice housings and I am digging the Bontrager line of cables. They even have some that are nicely over three meters for big bikes and full suspension bikes with complex internal routings. I can sometimes score tandem cable from Trek. Which is great for folks like @m@Robertson.
There are widgets to deal with this old-style one-piece cable guide. I used them on my Tracer build, which was a frame from 1999, back before good cable housing / slick cables existed, so the technique of the day was to use ferruled ends and bare cables for much of a cable run. These things:Getting back to the question of mushy brakes, do the cables need to be supported on the frame on both ends. My cable is only supported on the brake lever, and on the brake noodle. there are two lugs on the frame, but they are through lugs only. What if instead of a through lug, I were to make the cable end there with that metal housing end cap (ferrule), shown...??? and same thing down closer to the v brake noodle...???