Is a Slime Seal (Tube) Permanent?

Are you mixing different brands of sealant in the same tubes? If so, that pretty much nullifies your ability to speak to how any brand works.

As for Slime, I really can't imagine how you are managing to clog your valves! Especially repeatedly!! You need to try again with some adult supervision and report back.

TT
nope but when I run out of one I would try another. I usually just toss the tubes over trying to patch them.
 
More BS. I think maybe we're dealing with somebody that has the patience level of a 6 year old.....
Jesus you really going there? man your just showing the maturity your claiming I am displaying. So you have my exact Sealant syringe and you have tried flat out in it??? I think you just down read well and are so ready to jump on a nything/
 
The centrifugal force of the spinning tire causes the sealant to completely coat the inside of the tube. The escaping air from a puncture causes it to migrate to the leak. Slime will pool at the bottom of the tube when the bike is parked for a period of time but quickly spreads out again when the tire begins to rotate.

I get how sealant works. I just don't get how something too thick to apply with a syringe is distributed in this manner. That discussion wasn't about slime - it was about that other stuff.
 
I get how sealant works. I just don't get how something too thick to apply with a syringe is distributed in this manner. That discussion wasn't about slime - it was about that other stuff.
It's not too thick for a syringe. That's complete BS. Maybe it won't be like water, but consider it HAS TO BE thin enough to coat the entire inside of that tube once injected to be of any use at all! Then, as mentioned above already (by somebody using it successfully I might add), the sealant will collect in the bottom of the tube during longer periods of unuse, only to be circulated AGAIN as soon as the bike moves.
 
It's not too thick for a syringe. That's complete BS. Maybe it won't be like water, but consider it HAS TO BE thin enough to coat the entire inside of that tube once injected to be of any use at all! Then, as mentioned above already (by somebody using it successfully I might add), the sealant will collect in the bottom of the tube during longer periods of unuse, only to be circulated AGAIN as soon as the bike moves.
well it was for my syringe and since it comes with a tube most use it that way. but the tube is messy. I am sorry you don't agree with me and seem the expert on everything but it would not work with my syringe. maybe your think of slime? I don't know but flat out was way too thick and it was hard to get in to my presta valves no matter what.
so please stop arguing its just pointless. its like you take personal offense because I don't have the same results as you.
 
well it was for my syringe and since it comes with a tube most use it that way. but the tube is messy. I am sorry you don't agree with me and seem the expert on everything but it would not work with my syringe. maybe your think of slime? I don't know but flat out was way too thick and it was hard to get in to my presta valves no matter what.
so please stop arguing its just pointless. its like you take personal offense because I don't have the same results as you.
Already agree to stop talking about it if you would - but yet here we are?

And for the record, I was talking Slime.
 
Already agree to stop talking about it if you would - but yet here we are?

And for the record, I was talking Slime.
right you were talking slime so you misread and insulted me over it. plus I was not posting to you anyway. sp please go out and ride more and calm the f*ck down cause your over the top.
 
flat out wont go through a syringe. its just too thick. the tubes that come with them are too lose on presta valves. so its easy to make a mess. much off fills well not sure how well it works it likes to plug the valves or make them leak.
It goes thru a syringe just fine. Thats how I apply it. You're right the tubes that come with the bottles are too wide as they are sized for a Schraeder valve, but if all you do is put a Presta-to-Schraeder adapter onto the end of that factory tube, it works perfectly on a presta valve whose core has been removed. You just press it to the open valve and squeeze the bottle.

But thats not quite using a syringe. Look at the video I posted earlier in this thread about how to 'slime' presta tubes with non-removable cores. You can see in real time the guy successfully uses a meat marinade syringe and thats what I used as well. Only once in a blue moon will the slime clump up at the hole in the marinade syringe. You can clear it and apply the slime/flatout more gently and it won't clump.

Nowadays I only occasionally use a syringe if I need to for some weird reason (FlatOut will not go thru tubeless valves with an air flap at their bottom so uyou need the metal 'needle' to poke it open). I do it with a Caffe Latte sealant syringe. You can see right in the product pic they have a fancier version of the presta adapter on the end of the hose. I just stuff a generic ten-cent one on and it works fine. Funny thing in the product pic shown below you can see them describing visually the method I did above with a removable valce core (RVC) Presta.


51WUdzy2GoL._AC_SL1000_[1].jpg
 
There were some earlier comments about tubeless being a high maintenance option. I think those days are past. I originally used either Stans or Orange Seal and both of those sealants dried out and needed re-application (Stans also formed "Stans Boogers" that needed removal after a fashion). They also were limited in their ability to plug big stuff. Thorns and small nails. Big glass shards or jagged metal strips would be too much and then you'd better have a spare tube and 20 minutes to spare, roadside.

But that was then. This is now. There are better sealants out there. Flatout is the most talked about of the new arrivals but they are far from alone versus the old top two of Stans/OS. Using Flatout as the sealant, its thick enough to plug holes up to 1/2" and that appears to be for-real. So tubeless' limitation to thorns and small nails doesn't apply to me anymore and I have yet to hit something it could not seal.

There is no longer a need to top up the goo. Flatout never dries out unlike the 2-6 month window the manufacturers claim for Stans/OS (which I have stretched to as much as a year with Stans but still). Strictly speaking FO has a 10-year useful life but that effectively makes it never-ending as your tires won't last that long.

And with that, there is almost no need to top up the tires with air. I didn't have much of a problem with this using Stans (29er mtb tires) but Orange Seal on fat tires was a problem child, needing air about once a week. Flatout, on the other hand, has been something of a miracle. On my BFD, which has had the same load of FO in it for somewhere in the ballpark of two years, I originally could let the bike sit for a couple of months with no air loss of any kind. Now, the front tire has I guess stretched its casing enough - or something - that the front tire needs about 5 psi every month. The rear tire is still perfect for as long as I care to leave it. On my Apostate, its full load of FO is keeping the tires up to their max of 60 psi for a couple weeks. Give it a month and I am down to 40. Thats just as good as a tubed tire with Flatout inside doing the same slow-air-loss reduction job.

You are still screwed if you put say a 1" hole in the tire, but even with a tubed setup, I ALWAYS carry a spare tube. With tubeless, all I need thats extra is a towel to wipe off with after fussing with that muck inside to get a tube in.
 
this is what I am useing nice and pink. I think it works but don't know for sure.
Muc Off seems to be another winner. This is the best comparison vid I have seen for the 'next' generation of sealants. They really show the obvious failure of the old-guard here, and it points to how Stans and Orange Seal are coasting on long-time customer loyalty rather than actually performing to modern standards.

Note these tests use awls and screwdrivers from 1mm to 7mm on higher pressure road bike tires. These sealants - Flatout included - work for higher pressure tires. I spoke to Flatout customer service on the phone not too long ago about this and their exact response on pressure was that 'pressure is not a factor'. I've now had the bad luck to test it at 65 psi on my Apostate and its Maxxis Aggressor 26x2.5 tire is still holding air.

 
muc off has tubeless and tube sealant. but it wants to clog up valves a lot I have had to clean valves 4 times since I started using it.
 
if you don't have to add air all the time to a tubeless tire out clean it out it may be an option on our tandem. except for the cost of new tires. but then I could get better riding tires over the marathons.
 
right you were talking slime so you misread and insulted me over it. plus I was not posting to you anyway. sp please go out and ride more and calm the f*ck down cause your over the top.
Getting pissy cuz' somebody called you out on total BS? Thinking you need to get over it.
 
no someone could not read well got all worked up and started calling names.
In the world I live in, this is not calling someone a name -
"I think maybe we're dealing with somebody that has the patience level of a 6 year old....."
and it's the closest I've come to "calling someone a name"

Suggest if you are too thin skinned to absorb that without being too insulted, maybe it's hitting too close to home? ;)
 
In the world I live in, this is not calling someone a name -
"I think maybe we're dealing with somebody that has the patience level of a 6 year old....."
and it's the closest I've come to "calling someone a name"

Suggest if you are too thin skinned to absorb that without being too insulted, maybe it's hitting too close to home? ;)

right that must be it. you cll me a 6 year old when you goofed up and did not know what we were talking about then go on and on. sorry nothing on the net will upset me been here way to many years. but hey if you don't want to admit you called me names and insulted me whatever its on you.
 
And with that, there is almost no need to top up the tires with air. I didn't have much of a problem with this using Stans (29er mtb tires) but Orange Seal on fat tires was a problem child, needing air about once a week. Flatout, on the other hand, has been something of a miracle. On my BFD, which has had the same load of FO in it for somewhere in the ballpark of two years, I originally could let the bike sit for a couple of months with no air loss of any kind. Now, the front tire has I guess stretched its casing enough - or something - that the front tire needs about 5 psi every month. The rear tire is still perfect for as long as I care to leave it. On my Apostate, its full load of FO is keeping the tires up to their max of 60 psi for a couple weeks. Give it a month and I am down to 40. Thats just as good as a tubed tire with Flatout inside doing the same slow-air-loss reduction job.

You are still screwed if you put say a 1" hole in the tire, but even with a tubed setup, I ALWAYS carry a spare tube. With tubeless, all I need thats extra is a towel to wipe off with after fussing with that muck inside to get a tube in.
wonder if it would work at 70? want my tires as fast as possible. I would try the tubeless muc off maybe? the flat out just made a mess of things. but it would cost 90.00 or so to change over to tubeless on each wheel so not a cheap test.
 
Back