In the beginning, and desire...

[Brian(J)]

RE your question about shutdown, I don't think turning the display off shuts down the battery like pressing the battery button for ~4 seconds does, but just park the bike and it will turn itself off pretty quick.

The throttle cable does get in the way of rotating the brake, so does the downshift paddle which wants to hit the throttle housing. Currently I have my throttle housing rotated towards me such that the throttle cable passes over the brake. It's a radical move but if you don't like it you can change back easy enough. Just unlace the wire bundle and relace when done.

 

[Charly Banana]

The "thrust" using throttle alone feels "weaker" than I expected.
- I agree. But I think the Dash's algorithm is designed for smoothness vs quick reaction.

I prefer my brake levers to be angled down so as to be easier to reach.
- Yes, me too. I loosened up the throttle, brake and shifter and adjusted everything to give me the brake lever position I wanted.
I have to say one thing, I love these disc brakes. This is the first bike I've owned that had disc brakes and my first reaction was WOW!

In my opinion, the LCD display mounting could be improved.
- Yep. However, the looseness of the LCD and control pad come in handy when you need to repair a flat or other maintenance.
The LCD can be rotated forward and the control pad can be rotated rearward so the bike can be turned upside down. I now carry 3 wash clothes (2 for the handle bar grips and 1 for the seat) so I can turn the bike upside down when out on the road and not scratch the handlebars or tear the seat.

Does powering off from the handlebar (fully off) actually turn of the battery as well?
Yes, the first press of the power button gives power assist 0, the second press turns the bike off. (battery also)
Also, the bike can be turned off by pressing the battery power button for 2 seconds.
Page 5 of the System Operation Manual - IZIP E3 Dash describes the procedure for turning on and off the bike.

 

[Charly Banana]

I just finished playing around with the bike on - off function and found an interesting point.
The battery display stays on for 30 seconds.
If you turn the battery on, the bike on and then immediately turn the bike off at the control pad, the battery display will stay on until the 30 second times out.
However, if you turn the battery on, the bike on and then immediately turn the bike off at the battery button, the battery display will immediately turn off.

 

[pcrdude]

Thanks guys. I actually did read the manual, but when I was messing around with the bike, it appeared that powering off from the control panel also turned off the battery (and I didn't remember what the book said).

For repositioning the throttle, is it a simple matter of the allen head set screw to free up rotation, or is rotating it slightly more involved?

 

[Charly Banana]

To just rotate the throttle it's just that one allen screw.

 

[pcrdude]

Thanks Charly!

This forum rocks with good people!!!

 

[SpacedCowboy]

So I've noticed a couple of things in the last month or so...

1) Once you get up to ~25-27 mph in PA4, just cycling the pedals will keep you there. By cycling them, I mean there's no need to expend any effort to propel yourself forwards, just making them go around is all that's necessary. At that speed, you'd have to be pedaling like a maniac to get any traction on the highest-gear anyway, so there's zero resistance to pedaling slowly. I guess the motor is powerful enough...

2) I really wish there was a higher gear or 5 (see #1). Unless my legs are going like pistons, I can't get above ~30mph. Admittedly, this is quite quick [grin], but I feel that if there was another 5 gears or so, I could get it much higher.

3) I've noticed something that might be a bug in the firmware: If you're riding along in PA4, then hit the brakes for whatever reason when you're going over 20mph, you sometimes lose the power-assist until you stop pedaling for a little while, slow down, and it kicks in again when you get back down to 20mph (assuming you have the throttle on). So far I've only noticed it when I've braked hard...

 

[HumanitiesHaze]

2) I really wish there was a higher gear or 5 (see #1). Unless my legs are going like pistons, I can't get above ~30mph. Admittedly, this is quite quick [grin], but I feel that if there was another 5 gears or so, I could get it much higher....

My local bike shop said they can put a low gear with a 1-2 less teeth on it which should bring it up around 35+ MPH. I'm thinking since there's no cutoff on PA4, the motor will still crank as fast as I can pedal.

3) I've noticed something that might be a bug in the firmware: If you're riding along in PA4, then hit the brakes for whatever reason when you're going over 20mph, you sometimes lose the power-assist until you stop pedaling for a little while, slow down, and it kicks in again when you get back down to 20mph (assuming you have the throttle on). So far I've only noticed it when I've braked hard...

I've noticed this too. I usually shift up a gear then back down and that kicks up PA4 for me again. Or sometimes PA4 won't work above 20mph on PA4 with low gear, so shifting up and then down solves that. Something with the torque sensor I'm thinking.

Loving the bike tho.

 

[Brian(J)]

My local bike shop said they can put a low gear with a 1-2 less teeth on it which should bring it up around 35+ MPH. I'm thinking since there's no cutoff on PA4, the motor will still crank as fast as I can pedal.



I've noticed this too. I usually shift up a gear then back down and that kicks up PA4 for me again. Or sometimes PA4 won't work above 20mph on PA4 with low gear, so shifting up and then down solves that. Something with the torque sensor I'm thinking.

Loving the bike tho.

Please keep in touch if you install that 9 tooth gear (cog). This bike needs that gear.

 

[SpacedCowboy]

Please keep in touch if you install that 9 tooth gear (cog). This bike needs that gear.

Seconded

 

[pcrdude]

6.7 miles in 23 minutes for on old out of shape guy. With hills.

This bike is awesome!

 

[James]

I'm so glad your other bike broke!

 

[pcrdude]

Thanks James!

This Dash is almost too fast.... Oh wait, maybe I need a smaller top gear sprocket....

They picked the right name!

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

Please keep in touch if you install that 9 tooth gear (cog). This bike needs that gear.

If you want to Cruise at 35+mph on any ebike, there is one way to do it.
There is a special drive called Metropolis Patterson Transmission Crankset. It converts your 39T cog to an equivalent 62T and it is used in some of the high-end touring bikes to be able to maintain high speeds without breaking your cadence rhythm.

Recently, one of the experts on Endless-Sphere forum modified a small frame EdgeRunner to be able to cruise at 35+mph, using one of these.

More info on modification: http://endless-sphere.com
Link to company/technology: http://www.metropoliscomponents.com/patterson.htm

A video:

Installation:

 

[James]

That's a pretty good find Rav! I wonder how it would change the reaction of the pedalic sensor on my bike?

 

[Charly Banana]

What a great idea!
And it's not that expensive ($299) for what you get.
However, if I understood the installation instructions correctly, I don't think you could use this on a IZIP Dash. The Dash has torque and cadence sensors in the bottom bracket and I understand this unit uses it's own external bearing BB.
Some people are so smart! Hats off to the inventor of this device.
Also, thanks to Ravi for all the great info he provides to this forum.
I enjoyed watching the videos.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

Thanks Charlie.
I am enjoying learning with you guys.

BTW, the correct website is : http://pattersonbike.com/

 

[DashRiprock]

The throttle cable does get in the way of rotating the brake, so does the downshift paddle which wants to hit the throttle housing. Currently I have my throttle housing rotated towards me such that the throttle cable passes over the brake. It's a radical move but if you don't like it you can change back easy enough. Just unlace the wire bundle and relace when done.

Could you please advise as to why you did this? (thanks in advance).

 

[Brian(J)]

Could you please advise as to why you did this? (thanks in advance).

Because the way the bike came to me the brake lever housing, the trigger shifter, and the throttle meshed together in a clumsy way and prevented me from rotating the brake lever to a more comfortable position.

What I want is for the brake lever to be in line with my extended arm, but the brake lever was tilted upward so I was riding with my wrist bent back toward me, not a huge deal but I didn't like it. In addition, the throttle cable comes out through an extension tube that crams the cable right into the side of the shifter, and rotating the shifter or the throttle caused the downshift paddle to hit the throttle housing.
I loosened all the hex screws and removed the cable lacing and fooled around with the three components until I got what I wanted by rotating the throttle toward me and the brake away from me, with the throttle cable tube passing over the top of the brake. Now my wrist sits at a natural angle, very slightly down.

 

[James]

Thanks Charlie.
I am enjoying learning with you guys.

BTW, the correct website is : http://pattersonbike.com/

Do you think this would help me achieve a higher top speed? Or would I just be wasting my time with it? I'll buy it today if it would allow me to maintain 35+mph. I don't really see how if my motor shuts off at 28mph though.