Hypermiling - settings to modify to get extreme range

[Mass Deduction]

I'm interested in trying some e-bike "hypermiling" (a term I hear e-cars owners using for when they're trying to get max range on a charge). I have a bike where I can modify top speed, assist percentage, max torque, and max wattage, and I'm curious for feedback on the best way to do that.

I think the most obvious way to do it is to reduce the top speed down to 25 km/h (the lowest I can adjust to). That's fine for a touring pace for me. Back in the day my solo touring pace on a muscle bike typically averaged 18-19 km/h when (for example) doing an 8 hour solo ride on a hilly-ish route.

However, out of reducing the max torque, the assist percentage, and the max wattage, which is likely to be the most effective at further extending range? Or is it six of one, half a dozen for each of the others?

My supposition is that reducing the assist percentage would do the most to extend range on a mostly flat ride, and that reducing max wattage and/or max torque would do the most to extend range on a mostly hilly ride. But I've been wrong before!

I'm particularly curious about reducing max wattage, and whether there're any good reasons to do this or to not do this. All comments on any of the above appreciated, though!

 

[GypsyTreker]

Hope someone with knowledge responds, love this direction when it comes to extending range.

 

[Cyklefanatic]

Just reduce max assist to 1% and range will be longer than you can ride in one day

 

[batmick1]

Just reduce max assist to 1% and range will be longer than you can ride in one day

Or disconnect the battery and leave it at home. That way you increase range and make it easier...

 

[Johnny]

Turn it off.

Ok, joking aside, I think the notion of hypermiling needs some clarification for ebikes. A good definition here would be maximizing the distance you cover while spending the same amount of energy or burning same amount of calories (and keeping your power under a certain threshold).

In my experience speed plays the biggest role because of wind resistance. Keep it slow (preferably less then 16mph) where wind resistance is low and you are mostly riding against rolling resistance.

Inflate your tires.

Use the lowest level of assist that you can tolerate. However if you lower it too much it defeats the purpose of an ebike. I get 60+ miles on my powerpack 400 on custom ride modes dialed down to %25 but it really doesn't feel like an ebike that way.

 

[Mass Deduction]

[...]
In my experience speed plays the biggest role because of wind resistance. Keep it slow (preferably less then 16mph) where wind resistance is low and you are mostly riding against rolling resistance.

Inflate your tires.

Agreed, I'll definitely be doing both of these. I also plan to invest in a BMC e-bike, as they have bikes I can afford that weigh about 33 pounds, so that (and travelling light on top of that) will help. I've also lost over a dozen pounds recently, and that'll help.

Use the lowest level of assist that you can tolerate. However if you lower it too much it defeats the purpose of an ebike. I get 60+ miles on my powerpack 400 on custom ride modes dialed down to %25 but it really doesn't feel like an ebike that way.

Agreed. My question is whether you get a better bang for the buck dialling back the assist percentage, or is dialling back the max wattage more effective, or is reducing the max torque. As you say, which can I dial back while still having it feel like an e-bike when it kicks in.

Perhaps I'll tune three modes of assist to the same settings, and then change just one point of each to see the differences.

 

[rich c]

Traditional cyclists would consider a post like this the funniest thing they ever read. Here is a post on the subject. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/v...p=268387&hilit=hypermiling+techniques#p268387

 

[Johnny]

... My question is whether you get a better bang for the buck dialling back the assist percentage, or is dialling back the max wattage more effective, or is reducing the max torque. As you say, which can I dial back while still having it feel like an e-bike when it kicks in.
...

I would have loved to be able to limit the max supplied power. I think if you limit max power then you can prevent the motor from peaking to the levels that it is inefficient (at the expense of acceleration from a standstill) and the battery drain will be much more predictable.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

My observations are:

1. Inflate the tyres almost to the max allowable pressure
2. Ride slowly. "Speed kills" but it also applies to the range
3. Ride in temperatures above 15 C whenever practical
4. Lose your weight, shall you do some climbing*
5. Ride light. Every kg/lb more takes away the energy on the elevation gain.

-----------------
*) Optional

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Get a regen hub motor on front wheel.

You can recoup way more energy from front than the rear.

Please provide hard facts how much of energy could be recovered for an-ebike. 3 or 5% at the cost of a heavy direct drive generator?

 

[Readytoride]

Pump up the tires.
Ride only on perfectly paved roads.
Get down into aero position and stay that way.
Ride downhill both ways.
Ride only with a tail wind.
Turn off the assist.

OK, the last three are a joke. You are, after all, riding an ebike for a reason, so if you turn off the assist you might as well switch back to a regular road bike for the weight savings.

If we're going to be realistic (yeah, boring, I know) here's my "hypermiling" esperience:

A hybrid car (like a Prius) can hypermile because it is: 1. Heavy enough to make coasting a distance possible, 2. As aerodynamically designed as possible to slip under the wind, 3. designed to have the engine shut off anytime the gas pedal is released. You can get super mileage under 60mph, on good roads, in good weather. It's fun to play with the concept for limited times (I once got 72 mpg for a 10 mile trip - a record my husband has yet to beat although he is still trying), but gets a bit tiring if you are driving long distance.

An electric car can't hypermile because of the automatic regenerative braking. Good luck trying, too. I have tried in our electric car and it's just not worth the effort. Just stay 60mph or under in the electric car (45 to 50 mph is ideal) and you'll get the best range. And only drive it in temperate weather. Electric cars LOVE 60°f temps. Their range simply soars.

An electric bike would struggle to hypermile like a hybrid car because is not aerodynamic, people are not aerodynamic, and one can't go fast enough to make a difference in coasting. So your options are: 1. to go slow for best wind resistance (but who who wants to go slow on an ebike?), 2. reduce the assist down to minimum (which comes at the expense of the physical body. Not a win-win in my opinion), 3. turn off the assist entirely when going down hill, or 4. ride only on flat, paved roads and employ 1., 2., and 3. above.

I have tried all of the above. Did they save any battery for me? For the first three options the answer was "not really". Any savings was minimal at best: a low single digit % over the course of a 26 mile ride. The best battery saving was #4 - flat paved roads. I saved an impressive double digit % of battery over a 25 mile ride, which was amazing.

If you want to have fun trying to hypermile your ebike, go for it. It will be interesting to see what you discover.

I simply purchased a second battery to take along for longer rides.

 

[Captain Slow]

I'm not sure, but I think over on Endless Sphere the fellows probably know their watt hours/mile or km pretty well. Do people here track that? What is the best wh/mi that people get and how do they get that and what kind of route are they riding?

This thread is essentially how do you get the best wh/mi. isn't it?

 

[AHicks]

If you are serious about going further on a charge, I think the best/easiest way to increase your battery's range is a mental adjustment. Simply contribute more of the required power!

And there is no doubt a learning curve if this is a first venture with an e-bike. Coordinating the PAS level with the the gear you're in, speed, how much effort you want to contribute, etc. is quite a challenge at first. I'm 3 years into this now, and STILL find it pretty entertaining to see what I can get out of a charge/how efficient my decisions are on a ride.

 

[Mass Deduction]

Get a regen hub motor on front wheel.[...]

Interesting suggestion. My e-bikes are all mid-drive. I find bikes with regen to often be significantly heavier than a bike without. I'd be interested in regen if it were paired with a really lightweight bike. Otherwise, the additional weight will reduce/eliminate any benefit in my case. I've seen single speed rear wheels that either have small batteries (or is it a capacitor?) within the hub that regen, but I'm riding a geared bike. Any front wheels that do that, that wouldn't add so much weight as to eliminate any benefit?

My observations are:

1. Inflate the tyres almost to the max allowable pressure
2. Ride slowly. "Speed kills" but it also applies to the range
3. Ride in temperatures above 15 C whenever practical[...]

I'm already doing 1-2, and 4-5. But 3 is a good suggestion. I'll have to wait a few months for that, though!

 

[Mass Deduction]

[...] 1. to go slow for best wind resistance (but who who wants to go slow on an ebike?), 2. reduce the assist down to minimum (which comes at the expense of the physical body. Not a win-win in my opinion), 3. turn off the assist entirely when going down hill, or 4. ride only on flat, paved roads and employ 1., 2., and 3. above.

I have tried all of the above. Did they save any battery for me? For the first three options the answer was "not really". Any savings was minimal at best: a low single digit % over the course of a 26 mile ride. The best battery saving was #4 - flat paved roads. I saved an impressive double digit % of battery over a 25 mile ride, which was amazing.
[...]

I use a clip-on aerobar, and I find substantially improved range (double-digit percentage easily) from using it versus sitting more upright on the bike, so I'll already be doing that. And as previously mentioned, this will be a touring pace and I'll be comfortable with moving more slowly on it. Interesting that you didn't get a lot of assist from moving slowly and using low assist. I'm going to put that to the test in my case, riding fast one time and riding slow another, and will report back my findings. And yes, I'll be carrying at least one extra battery (maybe two).

I'm not sure, but I think over on Endless Sphere the fellows probably know their watt hours/mile or km pretty well. Do people here track that? What is the best wh/mi that people get and how do they get that and what kind of route are they riding?

This thread is essentially how do you get the best wh/mi. isn't it?

Thanks for the Endless Sphere link. It seems like a lot of people there are using throttle equipped bikes with gigantic batteries, which isn't applicable to my use of the bike, but it made for interesting reading nonetheless! And yes, I'm essentially trying to discover the best way to get more km/Wh with the smallest compromise to the user experience. You hit the nail on the head.

 

[Mass Deduction]

If you are serious about going further on a charge, I think the best/easiest way to increase your battery's range is a mental adjustment. Simply contribute more of the required power!

And there is no doubt a learning curve if this is a first venture with an e-bike. Coordinating the PAS level with the the gear you're in, speed, how much effort you want to contribute, etc. is quite a challenge at first. I'm 3 years into this now, and STILL find it pretty entertaining to see what I can get out of a charge/how efficient my decisions are on a ride.

I agree with you. I have both significantly reduced the amount I'm asking from the motor and significantly increased my personal output. My motivation for creating this thread was to find the most efficient ways to further reduce the motor's contribution.

I have significant ability to adjust the PAS levels on my bike, and am hoping this thread will give me some guidance on the best ways to do so.

 

[Mass Deduction]

Traditional cyclists would consider a post like this the funniest thing they ever read. Here is a post on the subject. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/v...p=268387&hilit=hypermiling+techniques#p268387

Heh, you're probably right about that! My goal is for my muscles to provide almost all the propulsion on the flats and descents, and to reduce the amount of propulsion provided by the motor on the hills in the interests of enjoying each battery longer before swapping it out for the next one.

 

[AHicks]

I have significant ability to adjust the PAS levels on my bike, and am hoping this thread will give me some guidance on the best ways to do so.

With adjustable PAS levels, I would start out by setting the controller up with a max available wattage in each level (e.g. PAS 1 max 100 wats, PAS 2 max 200 watts, etc.). Then see where that takes you, and adjust as necessary. For instance you may find you only need 150 watts of assistance in PAS 2? -Al

 

[Mr. Coffee]

You don't need advice, you need the Right Tools.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

Go buy one of those, and actually measure how many watt-hours you are using over a known course (probably a 10km course would be good, even better would be to have two courses, one very gentle and one hilly, but I digress). Then run experiments. Change one thing at a time, and measure again. Keep running experiments and try to figure out how to get that watt-hour measurement the lowest over your course.

 

[Mass Deduction]

With adjustable PAS levels, I would start out by setting the controller up with a max available wattage in each level (e.g. PAS 1 max 100 wats, PAS 2 max 200 watts, etc.). Then see where that takes you, and adjust as necessary. For instance you may find you only need 150 watts of assistance in PAS 2? -Al

I'm inclined to agree. Once the weather warms up, I'm going to give that a try! No point trying to hypermile in the cold since the battery wants to be room temperature to be at its best. Thank you for your thoughts!