Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion

Hi there, I am new here. Forgive me if this seems obvious to you all, but I was looking at ordering from Leili on Alibaba since they seem trustworthy after looking at all of your posts.
My questions are this:
-I see Leili has THIS (<---- clickable link) 1500watt bike for $1800. How come no one is buying it but instead purchasing the 1000watt MD1000? I see that the MD1000 HERE (<---clickable link) has an IGH and no body cladding like the 1500watt bike I linked has, but what am I missing?
 
Hi there, I am new here. Forgive me if this seems obvious to you all, but I was looking at ordering from Leili on Alibaba since they seem trustworthy after looking at all of your posts.
My questions are this:
-I see Leili has THIS (<---- clickable link) 1500watt bike for $1800. How come no one is buying it but instead purchasing the 1000watt MD1000? I see that the MD1000 HERE (<---clickable link) has an IGH and no body cladding like the 1500watt bike I linked has, but what am I missing?
I personally wouldn’t buy that 1500 watt model as it looks like a motorcycle and I would be stopped by the police and they would want proof of it being taxed and insured etc.
 
Hi everyone,
Excuse me if this question has already been answered at some point in the thread. I’m considering the MD1000 to use for hunting in Florida to transport my equipment and haul deer out of the woods. The bike will be used exclusively off-road in wet, swampy, sandy, muddy conditions, so I would really like to stick with belt drive. My question is, how come nobody is using the Archer 3 Speed IGH with this bike? I’m reading that this hub is supposed to be able to handle the Bafang Ultra just fine, unlike the 5 speed version. I’m guessing the reason nobody is using the 3 speed is because maybe it doesn’t work well for steep climbs? Being in Florida myself, I’m dealing with only flat ground most of the time so that wouldn’t be an issue for me. Would you guys say the Archer 3 speed would work well for me on the MD1000?
 
Hey guys, the current seatpost is 30.4mm, have any of you tried to fit a 30.9mm?
I'm shopping for a dropper seatpost and they're all this size, it's a small difference but just want to be 100% sure before making this expense.
 
Hi there, I am new here. Forgive me if this seems obvious to you all, but I was looking at ordering from Leili on Alibaba since they seem trustworthy after looking at all of your posts.
My questions are this:
-I see Leili has THIS (<---- clickable link) 1500watt bike for $1800. How come no one is buying it but instead purchasing the 1000watt MD1000? I see that the MD1000 HERE (<---clickable link) has an IGH and no body cladding like the 1500watt bike I linked has, but what am I missing?
If you’re gonna buy the MD1000 stay away from the IGH. It sucks! It will fold up on you. It can’t handle the power of the 1000w.
 
Hi everyone,
Excuse me if this question has already been answered at some point in the thread. I’m considering the MD1000 to use for hunting in Florida to transport my equipment and haul deer out of the woods. The bike will be used exclusively off-road in wet, swampy, sandy, muddy conditions, so I would really like to stick with belt drive. My question is, how come nobody is using the Archer 3 Speed IGH with this bike? I’m reading that this hub is supposed to be able to handle the Bafang Ultra just fine, unlike the 5 speed version. I’m guessing the reason nobody is using the 3 speed is because maybe it doesn’t work well for steep climbs? Being in Florida myself, I’m dealing with only flat ground most of the time so that wouldn’t be an issue for me. Would you guys say the Archer 3 speed would work well for me on the MD1000?
I wouldn’t put any SA IGH on it. Go for the normal 9 speed cassette, it works a treat and has quite a bit more climbing capability.
 
I personally wouldn’t buy that 1500 watt model as it looks like a motorcycle and I would be stopped by the police and they would want proof of it being taxed and insured etc.
I thought the same thing but couldn't we just remove the cladding?
 
I thought the same thing but couldn't we just remove the cladding?
I’m sure that holds the battery and controller etc. That’s a completely different bike from what’s discussed in this thread.
 
Hi everyone,
Excuse me if this question has already been answered at some point in the thread. I’m considering the MD1000 to use for hunting in Florida to transport my equipment and haul deer out of the woods. The bike will be used exclusively off-road in wet, swampy, sandy, muddy conditions, so I would really like to stick with belt drive. My question is, how come nobody is using the Archer 3 Speed IGH with this bike? I’m reading that this hub is supposed to be able to handle the Bafang Ultra just fine, unlike the 5 speed version. I’m guessing the reason nobody is using the 3 speed is because maybe it doesn’t work well for steep climbs? Being in Florida myself, I’m dealing with only flat ground most of the time so that wouldn’t be an issue for me. Would you guys say the Archer 3 speed would work well for me on the MD1000?
No one here has tried the 3 speed version that I know of. Personally I wouldn’t try it but it’s up to you. The 5 speed IGH has been broken in a few different ways so it doesn’t even seem to be just 1 component, the 1000w ate it up! If you’re looking at hitting swamps and stuff you may need to find another solution. 🙁
 
No one here has tried the 3 speed version that I know of. Personally I wouldn’t try it but it’s up to you. The 5 speed IGH has been broken in a few different ways so it doesn’t even seem to be just 1 component, the 1000w ate it up! If you’re looking at hitting swamps and stuff you may need to find another solution. 🙁
I don’t know if they make a 3 speed that fits in our frame either. Wattwagon doesn’t seem to mind using the 3 speed on their frames. I’m working on getting a kindernay
 
No one here has tried the 3 speed version that I know of. Personally I wouldn’t try it but it’s up to you. The 5 speed IGH has been broken in a few different ways so it doesn’t even seem to be just 1 component, the 1000w ate it up! If you’re looking at hitting swamps and stuff you may need to find another solution. 🙁
I don’t know if they make a 3 speed that fits in our frame either. Wattwagon doesn’t seem to mind using the 3 speed on their frames. I’m working on getting a kindernay
What’s a kindernay?

it’s an igh that can handle 160nm of torque
 
Hi everyone,
Excuse me if this question has already been answered at some point in the thread. I’m considering the MD1000 to use for hunting in Florida to transport my equipment and haul deer out of the woods. The bike will be used exclusively off-road in wet, swampy, sandy, muddy conditions, so I would really like to stick with belt drive. My question is, how come nobody is using the Archer 3 Speed IGH with this bike? I’m reading that this hub is supposed to be able to handle the Bafang Ultra just fine, unlike the 5 speed version. I’m guessing the reason nobody is using the 3 speed is because maybe it doesn’t work well for steep climbs? Being in Florida myself, I’m dealing with only flat ground most of the time so that wouldn’t be an issue for me. Would you guys say the Archer 3 speed would work well for me on the MD1000?
Be guided by Terry777 or RMK on this because they have experience with SA IGH. I doubt the SA 3 speed will hold up for very long with the Bafang Ultra and you may find yourself stranded while hunting. From reading about that IGH, you must consider the dropout size. The MD1000 is 200mm while the SA is suited for 170mm dropouts. You must also consider (speaking under correction, but I think I read also) the rotor (brake) whether 4 hole as oppose to 6 hole attachment and the size 180mm against 203mm on the MD1000. In other words, you may not get back the same braking system set up in the rear of the MD1000. Sounds like a lot of alteration.


Luckily, Sturmey Archer built and is selling a 3-speed IGH that is specially designed for fat bikes called the SX-RK3 (their website information page is here) which fits perfectly in 170mm rear dropouts and only weighs in at 1400g without the cog or shifting mechanism.
 
I'll chime in here once. As for the Kindernay, this video is very instructive. I don't see ever using the cage swapping feature and don't like the two shifter setup of the Kindernay. At that cost, and considering Rohloff's maturity as a very reliable IGH, it seems the better value and a safer choice. As indicated in the Kindernay vid, shifting underpower and/or under load can and likely will cause damage to the gears. This is true for the Rohloff as well but after months of careful riding with the SA IGH, I had developed good riding habits that makes riding with the Rohloff trouble free. It provides incredibly fast, effortless and reliable shifting but I'm very careful to NOT shift under load.

So after riding my R&M Delite GX with the Rohloff E14 IGH (chain drive version) for 2 months and 800 miles this shifter is fantastic and is light years ahead of the seriously inappropriate Sturmey Archer gear set for ebike use. The non electric version that will be on the MD 1000 will be different and I can't comment how that will work out. I do know that the SRAM/Chain version of the MD 1000 is a solid performer and is vastly superior to the SA IGH version.
 
Quick update on the MD1000 with rohloff xl 500/14... It's great! She climbs anything on gear 1 with throttle only and goes a-lot faster on gear 14. Another plus is I get nearly double the battery range now. Mind you I am riding this in single track trails in san clemente, as well as the beach sand.... so putting it through it's paces and she's holding up just fine about 200 miles in now.
 
I finally found were to get the cable with the right connector for the taillight, if you're interested it's at greenbikekit, it turns out they're quite well equipped in parts for the G510.
For those who may not know it by opening the the panel where the wiring is located there are two blue connectors, one is already connected to the headlight and the other one is for the taillight and you'll need an extension cable long enough to connect it. You can always remove the blue connector and extend the wires yourself but that wouldn't be as clean as a job.
Hi J3on, are you going to be adding a rear light to your bike? Have you tried it yet and can you share the procedure if you try it?
 
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I'll chime in here once. As for the Kindernay, this video is very instructive. I don't see ever using the cage swapping feature and don't like the two shifter setup of the Kindernay. At that cost, and considering Rohloff's maturity as a very reliable IGH, it seems the better value and a safer choice. As indicated in the Kindernay vid, shifting underpower and/or under load can and likely will cause damage to the gears. This is true for the Rohloff as well but after months of careful riding with the SA IGH, I had developed good riding habits that makes riding with the Rohloff trouble free. It provides incredibly fast, effortless and reliable shifting but I'm very careful to NOT shift under load.

So after riding my R&M Delite GX with the Rohloff E14 IGH (chain drive version) for 2 months and 800 miles this shifter is fantastic and is light years ahead of the seriously inappropriate Sturmey Archer gear set for ebike use. The non electric version that will be on the MD 1000 will be different and I can't comment how that will work out. I do know that the SRAM/Chain version of the MD 1000 is a solid performer and is vastly superior to the SA IGH version.
I wonder how the Kindernay will hold up when it’s sold “to the masses” or even just us guys. I would be sceptical. That is just my opinion though. I’m no engineer or mechanic that’s for sure. Just going on the fact the SA IGH was obviously thought to be “good”, nearly all of us tore through that in no time and none of us are pro or anything near. Just guys who like out on our bike.

I really think the Sram does so well because when you push the trigger shifter it cuts the power and doesn’t actually perform the shift until the shifter is released, so the change is done while little to no power is going through the drive train. I sometimes even touch the brake just enough to cut power before shifting depending how I am riding so I am as easy on the drive train as possible. I also hold the trigger an extra second sometimes too before I release again to make sure the drive train is under as little stress as possible. The Sram is so easy to work on too. I love it so far and won’t change it if it keeps working like it has done.

RMK has turned into a MTB snob and only comes back here to look down in disgust at us mere cheapskates now. I heard he has NASA designing his next bike. Dunno if it’s true… lmao!! 😁
 
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