Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion

[RMK!]

Congratulation, that looks an amazing electric bicycle. You will sure have a lot of fun on that well specified machine, the only negative is you can’t really buy any upgrades as it has everything

Unfortunately, there are ALWAYS upgrades to buy ...

The R&M is an amazing bike and riding it is a real pleasure. It even has a dropper post for easy on off.

The what bike to ride decision has certainly gotten a lot tougher. With the Specialized bike my choice was always the MD 1000. Even when considering how cool and powerful it is, I'm afraid the MD 1000 is going to be second fiddle from now on.

 

[J3ON]

It’s a high powered transistor, metal oxide one too! Lol They’re used for higher power stuff. Resistors and caps are the basics of electronics.

When I was first enquiring about the MD I asked about the 750w first. Leili advised me against the 2 battery set up with the 750w motor for some reason so I went with the 1000w pretty quickly after that and never asked any more.

it may have been an upgrade to the mosfets as a newer more up to date model of the ultra or something I’m thinking of too. I’ve read too much over the months to be sure. At first I was reading everything I could get my hands on. Looking forward to tinkering with the programming again once I do the conversation.
[/QUOTE

Yeah no matter what you call it, the Ultra 1000, G510, or M620 it is one motor. The controller sets the power limits and fortunately, it can be changed via the controller to be either a 750W or 1000W + motor with 160 Nm of torque. By all accounts it's a damn good motor but it makes a lot of really strange noises.

I test rode a RIESE & MULLER DELITE GX with ROHLOF E14 (2019 pre pandemic floor model) today and absolutely loved the very quiet Bosch Performance motor, the smooth shifting Rohloff E14 IGH (chain version) and the front and rear FOX suspension. My finger has been hovering over the place order button all day. The price difference between the MD 1000 and the R&M is ridiculous even with my serious finagling of the price. I may yet pull the trigger but it means parting with my Specialized Turbo Creo. The Creo is a nice unsuspended great handling well built road bike for younger people. After the test ride today the R&M is clearly a better ebike than the Creo for me.

Riding the M 1000 is fun and it is more powerful and faster than just about anything else I have ridden. But I can't shake the "this thing will die well before I'm ready for that to happen" feeling every time I ride it . OTOH, the R&M is great looking and rides like the expertly built, quality engineered product it is. Smooth, refined, quiet and fast enough is my take. It's like the MD1000 is a MIG-17 and the R&M is a LearJet 75.

Update: I pulled the trigger on the R&M Delite GX today. Quick ride to my office today confirmed all the good things I was expecting. The Rohloff E14 + chain is simply a great ebike drivetrain and the Delite GX bike is world class as it should be considering the price.

Wow, nice machine, 2 batteries, full suspension and for sure much lighter than the MD1000, with this one you can go wherever you want!
From what I've understood you do a lot of off-road, MDs can certainly take some but their weights still puts some limits .
As for me, I added so many accessories to the bike that I think I'm over 130lbs, 138 with my chain lock on it, so I can forget very demanding trails.
Mine will soon look like a café racer bike, i have a 4" headlight that i will install soon and i ordered a vintage handlebar, precisely cafe racer style with a 120mm rise, the current handlebar may be suitable for me for short trips but not for long ones, after a while my hands becomes so numbs that I'm no longer able to charge the gears!
Other than that, the only thing that I'm thinking to change is the fork, I still have the feeling that it will let down any day.
I ordered a suspension pump to fill it up, looks like there is not enough pressure on mine.
Do you have an RST fork ? And if so, with how much pressure you're riding at ?
On most forks you'll find indications on the pressure in relation of the weight but not in this one.
My fear is to blow my suspension, how do you know when you reached the maximum?
Other than that, do you or anyone else knows the exact length of the spooks?
My front and rear wheels are bouncing way to much, so either the problem comes from the spooks that need to be adjusted or it's maybe my Tanus liners badly installed.

 

[Vewlix]

Just a heads up for anyone in the USA looking for another option to purchase the bike quickly without importing. I noticed an American shop selling the bike:- greenpowercycling. Don’t know anything about them but thought I would at least post the information here as it might help someone.

 

[Terry777]

Just a heads up for anyone in the USA looking for another option to purchase the bike quickly without importing. I noticed an American shop selling the bike:- greenpowercycling. Don’t know anything about them but thought I would at least post the information here as it might help someone.

Anyone taking a chance and importing a container load of these bikes has got to make decent money on them. Even now, after all the shenanigans. You’d probably be able to sell them in the UK or Europe never mind the US. Stick with the Sram option and you’d be good. There are still people buying them up at a pace where Leili can’t keep up. The lady I dealt with told me during my sale they buy 500 frames at a time and they’ve sold out 3 or 4 times that I know of, maybe more, since I got mine. That’s a lot of bikes!

I think someone who has them in the US right now is on to a good thing!

 

[tykoehn1]

After hours of researching Rohloff IGH's I found that one common problem with belt equipped Rohloff's was caused by excessive belt tension. That makes me wonder if a tight belt could cause premature wear with the Sturmey Archer IGH. It would be interesting to see if loosening the belt tension improves the reliability of the SA-IGH. If the SA wasn't designed for the torque of the Ultra mid-motor a tight belt on a drivetrain designed for acoustic bikes might cause problems. Anyone want to test that theory?

I run 40 lbs of tension which doesnt seem like much

 

[tykoehn1]

Bikonit seat post is 30.4mm just went through this with their support, they told me it was 31.6mm; it is not; the 31.6mm I bought was too big, called Bolton and they confirmed 30.4mm. need to buy a 27.2mm and a 27.2 to 30.4 sleeve.

I notice my seat post was loose with the 30.4 mm. I measured the opening on the bike and it was 30.9mm

 

[mjeds]

I notice my seat post was loose with the 30.4 mm. I measured the opening on the bike and it was 30.9mm

I have the 30.4 sleeve and no issue with loose post. Fits just fine. 200 miles in it now.

 

[tykoehn1]

I have the 30.4 sleeve and no issue with loose post. Fits just fine. 200 miles in it now.

thats good. 2 of the 5 bikes I have fits okay. The other 3 are loose. Im ordering larger post.

 

[RMK!]

I run 40 lbs of tension which doesnt seem like much

Yeah, the issue is probably the SA IGH itself. Excess belt tension on the thru axel is also possibly problematic and most inexpensive belt tension measuring systems are notoriously inaccurate. The Rohloff is over engineered and much better suited to a high torque motor like the Ultra. I'm really impressed with the Rohloff E14. All that careful shifting with the SA was good training for maximizing the longevity of the Rohloff.

Did you ever get the Axel replaced? Good to go now?

I think my relatively high mileage riding (2210 as of today) was the main reason I had problems with the drivetrain. Someone speculated as to that being the cause of my problems and I think he may be right. In any case, it is getting far fewer miles now and that might be a good thing in the long run.

 

[tykoehn1]

Yeah, the issue is probably the SA IGH itself. Excess belt tension on the thru axel is also possibly problematic and most inexpensive belt tension measuring systems are notoriously inaccurate. The Rohloff is over engineered and much better suited to a high torque motor like the Ultra. I'm really impressed with the Rohloff E14. All that careful shifting with the SA was good training for maximizing the longevity of the Rohloff.

Did you ever get the Axel replaced? Good to go now?

I think my relatively high mileage riding (2210 as of today) was the main reason I had problems with the drivetrain. Someone speculated as to that being the cause of my problems and I think he may be right. In any case, it is getting far fewer miles now and that might be a good thing in the long run.

Still waiting for the axle! I don't think I am going to be able to rebuild it based on the complexity. Rode the bike at the beach this weekend and one of them the shift indicator broke. The kindernay still looks sweet.

Does anyone have a squeaky fork?

 

[RMK!]

Still waiting for the axle! I don't think I am going to be able to rebuild it based on the complexity. Rode the bike at the beach this weekend and one of them the shift indicator broke. The kindernay still looks sweet.

Does anyone have a squeaky fork

The fork may be the only component on my MD that isn't making noises.

 

[J3ON]

As you can see in the picture mine has a 25A 750W label but there is a version with 1000W and 30A.
It looks like the MD1000 has an extra 250W and 5A more .
Can you guys check under your bikes? So we can compare.

 

[RMK!]

As you can see in the picture mine has a 25A 750W label but there is a version with 1000W and 30A.
It looks like the MD1000 has an extra 250W and 5A more .
Can you guys check under your bikes? So we can compare.

According to Bolton (Kyle), it is the same G510 motor on both the MD bikes. I believe the labeling is consistent with the default controller settings for the 750 and 1000 bikes. There is plenty of information around on how to unlock the controller and get the max power out of the motor. I suggest you research that a bit and decide if you really need more power. Over 25 MPH on these bikes is fun but potentially dangerous.

 

[Terry777]

Yup! You gotta hold on tight @ 25mph, 35 mph is more like holding on for your life if you’re on anything other than a smooth paved surface!

 

[RC001]

As you can see in the picture mine has a 25A 750W label but there is a version with 1000W and 30A.
It looks like the MD1000 has an extra 250W and 5A more .
Can you guys check under your bikes? So we can compare.

I believe J3oN is trying to show that there is a difference in the controller between the MD750 and the MD1000 which makes an essential difference in peak power. Can you guys please oblige us and do what he has requested, especially us that are still trying to make decisions. After all that's why we have the forum and it has been very useful so far. I appreciate his effort at trying to sort this out.

 

[RMK!]

I believe J3oN is trying to show that there is a difference in the controller between the MD750 and the MD1000 which makes an essential difference in peak power. Can you guys please oblige us and do what he has requested, especially us that are still trying to make decisions. After all that's why we have the forum and it has been very useful so far. I appreciate his effort at trying to sort this out.

My MD 1000 has the same static info as J3oN posted in his photos. The only difference is the bike specific serial numbers that I prefer not to post on the internet.

Taking pictures of the stickers on the bottom of the motor housing does not disclose anything about the controllers. Bolton stated in one of his videos that the motor and power potential of both MD bikes is the same when unlocked. If you doubt this, you might ask Yeili or Bikonit about the motor/controller issue directly as that would be more definitive.

 

[Terry777]

My MD 1000 has the same static info as J3oN posted in his photos. The only difference is the bike specific serial numbers that I prefer not to post on the internet.

Taking pictures of the stickers on the bottom of the motor housing does not disclose anything about the controllers. Bolton stated in one of his videos that the motor and power potential of both MD bikes is the same when unlocked. If you doubt this, you might ask Yeili or Bikonit about the motor/controller issue directly as that would be more definitive.

I’ve mailed Bafang on Instagram so we’ll see what they say “if” they get back to me.

 

[RC001]

I’ve mailed Bafang on Instagram so we’ll see what they say “if” they get back to me.

Appreciate your response guys. I understand your concern RMK. J3ON shows a 25A controller on the 750. From this information, my assessment is that the 750 has a 25A controller which peaks at 1000w while the 1000 is carrying a 30A controller which peaks at 1500w. I also emailed Bafang Motors but they have not responded as yet.

 

[RMK!]

Appreciate your response guys. I understand your concern RMK. J3ON shows a 25A controller on the 750. From this information, my assessment is that the 750 has a 25A controller which peaks at 1000w while the 1000 is carrying a 30A controller which peaks at 1500w. I also emailed Bafang Motors but they have not responded as yet.

The text below was taken from the Biktrix webpages dealing with the Stock Ultra settings and Programming guide indicates that the controller amps are adjustable in the in the remote Programming Application.

Note: The application software is in the link below, you would need to use this application for programming torque parameters- Controllerst_torque.exe

Always take screenshots of all the tabs after you have clicked on the 'READ' button and save them in a folder with a proper name this will help you to go back to previous settings if the new settings are messed up.

A. Basic tab:

Remember to click "Read" on each screen to read settings from motor.

1. Low Battery Protect(V): This is the low voltage cutoff. For a 48V battery, it is recommended to leave this at 43V. For a 52V battery, leave this at 47V.
2. Limited Current(A): 30A for 1000W, 25A for 750W, 20A for 500W. Note that BBS02 won't let you set this to over 25A.

 

[J3ON]

I remember back then Flora( agent from Leili) confirmed to me that the MD1000 and the MD750 have the same torque that is to say 160NM and now that RMK confirmed that he has the same label I'm pretty sure that is the same motor .
My biggest concern back then about the MD1000 was related to road regulations, I'm realizing now that nobody will run after you as long as you ride responsibly and you lock the speed according to the regulations of your country. Like I said before, I'm ok with my current settings, I'm 265lbs and I feel that the bike can carry 300lbs more!!
Regarding the speed I'm 100% agree with Terry777, you don't really need it, to want more speed it's really looking for problems, and the MDs are easy targets!