Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion

[Terry777]

Sure, the mounting brackets will only go on one way as they have the rectangular pop outs that seat in the frame for the fore and aft IGH adjustment. The SRAM gear set has been a dream thus far illustrating how really inappropriate the Sturmey Archer IGH was for this, or for that matter any ebike. It is an inexpensive acoustic bike drivetrain and I'm sure it's fine in that application.

The Rohloff looks like the IGH that will work with the MD 1000/750 but after a few hundred miles with the conventional SRAM setup, I'm convinced the $2K premium for the Rohloff just isn't worth it. Also, I don't use the 9 gears of the SRAM cassette so the 14 gear Rohloff is really overkill. It would quickly become a hassle shifting through all those gears with their tiny incremental ratio changes and I could see it becoming an adjustment nightmare over time. The Rohloff 14E is probably the way to go but it only integrates with the Bosch mid-drive motor. After having used the Bafang Ultra for awhile now, the Bosch is by comparison very weak sauce ...

Cool, you’re going faster too with the cassette? I took the IGH set up to where it cut out going up a silly steep long ass hill, will be interesting to see if the cassette gives it more or less climbing ability. I’m excited about the MD1000 again!

 

[RMK!]

Cool, you’re going faster too with the cassette? I took the IGH set up to where it cut out going up a silly steep long ass hill, will be interesting to see if the cassette gives it more or less climbing ability. I’m excited about the MD1000 again!

Yes, in high gear (9th) I can easily ride 35mph on the flat and max cadence puts me at 40mph. As you know, that is really flippin fast on anything but a nicely paved trail/road.

 

[Terry777]

Yes, in high gear (9th) I can easily ride 35mph on the flat and max cadence puts me at 40mph. As you know, that is really flippin fast on anything but a nicely paved trail/road.

Oh yes, 40 mph with them big fatties certainly makes you hold on a lil tighter. It’s like you’re riding on marbles or something. Like you say, even 30mph is dodgy as hell if it’s not paved! Nothing made my bum clench like doing around 25mph or there abouts I think it was and the damn rim/IGH starts coming apart. I’ve never had that type of feeling on a bike before and hope I don’t ever again! My bikes been parked up since that happened. I’ve had 2 very short runs (10 mins) since I put it back together, just don’t trust it. The IGH may still be good for someone not using a motor.

 

[RMK!]

Oh yes, 40 mph with them big fatties certainly makes you hold on a lil tighter. It’s like you’re riding on marbles or something. Like you say, even 30mph is dodgy as hell if it’s not paved! Nothing made my bum clench like doing around 25mph or there abouts I think it was and the damn rim/IGH starts coming apart. I’ve never had that type of feeling on a bike before and hope I don’t ever again! My bikes been parked up since that happened. I’ve had 2 very short runs (10 mins) since I put it back together, just don’t trust it. The IGH may still be good for someone not using a motor.

I'm sure the SRAM drivetrain will bring back your trust in MD 1000. Now I worry about rattles and such because the SRAM is so solid compared to the SA IGH. One thing I noticed of late is sharp bumps hit at speed initiate a motor cutoff. Not sure what that's about?

 

[Terry777]

I'm sure the SRAM drivetrain will bring back your trust in MD 1000. Now I worry about rattles and such because the SRAM is so solid compared to the SA IGH. One thing I noticed of late is sharp bumps hit at speed initiate a motor cutoff. Not sure what that's about?

I really hope so bro! The cut out may be your derailleur jumping a fraction due to the sharp bump causing the cable to move which will initiate the gear change cut out.

 

[RMK!]

I really hope so bro! The cut out may be your derailleur jumping a fraction due to the sharp bump causing the cable to move which will initiate the gear change cut out.

Interesting but I don't think the SRAM X5 shifter supports motor cut out, just the brakes do that. You're saying there is a sensor on the shift cable that detects cable movement and cuts power to the motor?

 

[carp]

Interesting but I don't think the SRAM X5 shifter supports motor cut out, just the brakes do that. You're saying there is a sensor on the shift cable that detects cable movement and cuts power to the motor?

Wondering if its just a simple case of loose connection somewhere that cuts power to motor when a big "jolt" of a bump causes it to lose contact...

 

[RMK!]

Wondering if its just a simple case of loose connection somewhere that cuts power to motor when a big "jolt" of a bump causes it to lose contact...

That is what seems like is happening. I'll check the connections.

 

[Terry777]

Interesting but I don't think the SRAM X5 shifter supports motor cut out, just the brakes do that. You're saying there is a sensor on the shift cable that detects cable movement and cuts power to the motor?

Yes, on the underside of the drive side arm. Your cable will be fed through it.

 

[RMK!]

Yes, on the underside of the drive side arm. Your cable will be fed through it.

That's interesting ... I do recall some early MD 1000 IGH discussions that involved confirmation of a gear shift motor shut off function to avoid damaging the IGH.

 

[Terry777]

That's interesting ... I do recall some early MD 1000 IGH discussions that involved confirmation of a gear shift motor shut off function to avoid damaging the IGH.

Most mid drives have them now. It’s a much needed fail safe in case you don’t change correctly yourself. Stops all that power going through the drivetrain while it’s not running true as it goes through the gear change. A must for the Ultra! That is one powerful mufu! Lol

The IGH gave us all plenty training on shifting correctly

 

[Wendigo]

Upgraded the Little 12A/25A controller today with a 17A/35A KT controller on one of my HD750 bikes.
Everything seems to work good. More torque!!!! Which was my goal.
I'm dealing with a cruise control issue, but I think that's just a loop back that needs unlooped.
Ran a few small hills and about 3 miles, no issues, and we got more power. Peaked around 1670Watts.
Will try to do some more testing when this rain stops.

 

[Terry777]

Upgraded the Little 12A/25A controller today with a 17A/35A KT controller.
Everything seems to work good. More torque!!!! Which was my goal.
I'm dealing with a cruise control issue, but I think that's just a loop back that needs unlooped.
Ran a few small hills and about 3 miles, no issues, and we got more power. Peaked around 1670Watts.
Will try to do some more testing when this rain stops.

Nice one! Keep us posted for sure!

What kind of money are you talking for this and how easy is it to install? May be an interesting wee project.

 

[Wendigo]

35A KT Controller w/ LCD8H display
Well Terry, I opted for this one $135 from Amazon that came with the display unit and input button/switch so I'd have a spare display and switch. You could find one like this or similar --controller only-- for about $50 or $60. Look for KT firmware / compatibility.
I used an old/bad controller 4-1 YLS wires to interface with the current installed wires to get the signal up to the LCD rather than buying new signal transfer wires to the front of the bike. I could not find this YLS style 4-1 cables.
This all took some homework & patience since the controllers wires were not 1 for 1 or always the same color. Many EXTRA wires with this controller. Not impossible for someone with moderate soldering skills.
This new controller is 12 mosfet compared to the 9 mosfet from the factory and it has more BALLS so therefore physically larger. It will not fit inside the bottom frame where the factory controller was, so will need mounted outside.
I will probably mount it under the crossbar similar to where it is in the pic attached above. It seems to be out of the way there. I'll most likely punch a hole in the frame near the crossbar to get the wires inside to clean up the install.

I took another ride this evening off-road and up some pretty steep hills. Smiled the whole way up, this thing is pulling much better. More grunt, just what my 250 pound body needed. I went throttle only up a hill the old stock controller would have stalled out on. When I got home , I hopped on the other stock HD750 in my garage and really noticed the difference! NOT 2x the power but the torque increase I really needed. If your a bigger person, this is something you should consider on the HD750 if you ride technical trails, hills etc. Did all this testing at about 50.0 volts charge. Not sure if batteries charged to 54.6V will yield even stronger performance or not....

Also, if you are a bigger / heavier person you may want to check the air in your front shocks...if it feels too mushy. Mine was about 85lb from factory i pumped it up to 110lb it feels way better (for semi - aggressive riding this bike is capable of once your spokes are tightened. Also set my preload (under the shock) for a tighter controlled feel at speed off-road.

 

[Terry777]

35A KT Controller w/ LCD8H display
Well Terry, I opted for this one $135 from Amazon that came with the display unit and input button/switch so I'd have a spare display and switch. You could find one like this or similar --controller only-- for about $50 or $60. Look for KT firmware / compatibility.
I used an the old/bad controller 4-1 YLS wires to interface with the current installed wires to get the signal up to the LCD rather than buying new signal transfer wires to the front of the bike. I could not find this YLS style 4-1 cables.
This all took some homework & patience since the controllers wires were not 1 for 1 or always the same color. Many EXTRA wires with this controller. Not impossible for someone with moderate soldering skills.
This new controller is 12 mosfet compared to the 9 mosfet from the factory and it has more BALLS so therefore physically larger. It will not fit inside the bottom frame where the factory controller was, so will need mounted outside.
I will probably mount it under the crossbar similar to where it is in the pic attached above. It seems to be out of the way there. I'll most likely punch a hole in the frame near the crossbar to get the wires inside to clean up the install.

I took another ride this evening off-road and up some pretty steep hills. Smiled the whole way up, this thing is pulling much better. More grunt, just what my 250 pound body needed. I went throttle only up a hill the old stock controller would have stalled out on. When I got home , I hopped on the other stock HD750 in my garage and really noticed the difference! NOT 2x the power but the torque increase I really needed. If your a bigger person, this is something you should consider on the HD750 if you ride technical trails, hills etc. Did all this testing at about 50.0 volts charge. Not sure if batteries charged to 54.6V will yield even stronger performance or not....

Also, if you are a bigger / heavier person you may want to check the air in your front shocks...if it feels too mushy. Mine was about 85lb from factory i pumped it up to 110lb it feels way better (for semi - aggressive riding this bike is capable of once your spokes are tightened. Also set my preload (under the shock) for a tighter controlled feel at speed off-road.

Cool, thanks for the info bro. I have the MD1000 so think I’m at 30v out the shop but may still look into a bigger controller too.
I’m about 12 stone (76kg) soaking wet! Lol

I had to set my front shock to around 95lb and the rebound to just over half way, like 1 extra click to the + as it was too soft for even me. I’m waiting on the IGH to cassette conversion kit being delivered any day. Can’t wait!
It’s great news you’ve made an improvement and got more to what you want.

 

[Vewlix]

For anyone else waiting on their order I was informed that my bike would go into production next week which I thought was very quick due to all the worldwide supply chain delays.

 

[RMK!]

For anyone else waiting on their order I was informed that my bike would go into production next week which I thought was very quick due to all the worldwide supply chain delays.

Not to pour cold water on your hot to go anticipation, but Leili has been very "optimistic" in their manufacturing/shipping estimates in the past. I had many next week (or next month) commitments in my 7 month wait for the MD 1000. Shipping time alone has added 2-3 months to delivery times due to port over crowding and shipping container availability issues. That said, the wait was ultimately worth it and I hope things have improved to a more reasonable delivery timeline.

 

[Terry777]

Not to pour cold water on your hot to go anticipation, but Leili has been very "optimistic" in their manufacturing/shipping estimates in the past. I had many next week (or next month) commitments in my 7 month wait for the MD 1000. Shipping time alone has added 2-3 months to delivery times due to port over crowding and shipping container availability issues. That said, the wait was ultimately worth it and I hope things have improved to a more reasonable delivery timeline.

I can vouch for that brother! I remember talking you into staying the course on more than 2 or 3 occasions. You were at the point of telling them “ to shove it where the sun don’t shine” many times! I’m glad you didn’t though and got your bike in the end. I’ll also second, it’s a great bike, just don’t get the IGH! I’m sure a few others were the same when it came to their orders too right? Hope it’s all caught up now and deliveries are on time.

 

[RMK!]

I can vouch for that brother! I remember talking you into staying the course on more than 2 or 3 occasions. You were at the point of telling them “ to shove it where the sun don’t shine” many times! I’m glad you didn’t though and got your bike in the end. I’ll also second, it’s a great bike, just don’t get the IGH! I’m sure a few others were the same when it came to their orders too right? Hope it’s all caught up now and deliveries are on time.

Yeah, as the very first known recipient of the MD 1000, you gave many of us hope that the bikes would arrive soon. Soon turned out to be many months later but since I already had a couple of ebikes to use, it was an easier wait for me than others who were waiting for their first and perhaps only ebike.

There are many good options now but the MD 1000/750's ordered direct from China still represent the best bang for the buck for this type of big powerful bike I've seen. As you said, the damn IGH was a very poor drivetrain choice and with hundreds of them sold, the final chapter on that fiasco is TBD.

 

[Terry777]

Yeah, as the very first known recipient of the MD 1000, you gave many of us hope that the bikes would arrive soon. Soon turned out to be many months later but since I already had a couple of ebikes to use, it was an easier wait for me than others who were waiting for their first and perhaps only ebike.

There are many good options now but the MD 1000/750's ordered direct from China still represent the best bang for the buck for this type of big powerful bike I've seen. As you said, the damn IGH was a very poor drivetrain choice and with hundreds of them sold, the final chapter on that fiasco is TBD.

Another thing I’ve noticed while we’re on the subject of the Sram set up is the gear change doesn’t actually take place until you release the trigger on the shifter as opposed to the Shimano set up which makes the change as you pull the trigger which means the motor cut out happens as you pull giving it a second to cut the power before the mechanical change happens. Long story short, the Sram is better for our bikes! Happy gear change means happy bike