Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion
- Thread starter RMK!
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RMK!
Well-Known Member
12 batteries ought to do it.
I'm interested in the correct procedure for belt tensioning. I found this one and I will try using this method. The Gates Tension Gauge got poor reviews and I have no idea what the correct pressure should be for this SA IGH setup. Maybe Bikonit or Bolton will address this at some point.
RMK!
Well-Known Member
Well that took <30 minutes. I down loaded the Gates Carbon Drive app from the app store and followed the procedure in the Bikeaholics youtube video referenced in my last post. My belt was loose (slipped a couple to times yesterday) and I tightened it and measured the frequency using the Carbon Drive app. It is now 44-47Hz which is within the 35-50Hz recommended for an IGH. Be sure to follow the Bikeaholic instructions and you will be good to go.
I have to say I love this aspect of the internet. Ask the right question and you can get answers.
I have to say I love this aspect of the internet. Ask the right question and you can get answers.
Hey guys, has anyone seen this problem? Top battery keeps jumping out of its slot when I hit a bump.
So today I took the dirt road into Joshua Tree National Park - no gate there, just ride on in. That road doesn't connect up with any of the paved amenities but does go to Eureka Peak, about 5000' total and more than 1500' from my starting elevation. Round trip 25mi. It's high enough to have gotten snow recently and that snow was starting to melt, so just where the climb got steep I had to contend with barely solid snow, mud, and sand. Just what our bikes are made for, right?
I have a few more observations. The first is that I mainly enjoyed myself, got more exercise than I have in ages, and I wouldn't have been doing it but for my new ebike. For those who don't know, a Joshua tree is actually a cactus, but it's the size and approximate shape of a tree - see the photo or google for a better one. It was gorgeous, and over 50 degrees Fahrenheit when I left though of course colder at the top. From the peak I can see my town in one direction, Palm Springs in the other. I tried to get pictures but without telephoto they don't turn out, and with telephoto you get no sense of scale.
Second, my bike has a conventional cassete, 11-speed, instead of the IGH, and it has a wider range of gears. Though I said before I didn't need those big gears after all, even on a steep hill, that changes in muck. I was using low gear a lot. However, when the going gets tough and I have a choice between feathering the throttle or shifting to a lower gear and have power cut out briefly, it seemed safer to go for throttle.
Third, the bike may be made for these conditions, but I'm not. I tumbled twice, no damage just messy. There's a paradox involved, in that I needed a minimum speed to get through the sloppiest parts, but too much speed and I'd miss the next curve. Mud was definitely better for traction than half-melted snow. I briefly regretted ditching those pathetic fenders but quickly realized they'd have made no real difference. If the slick sloppy surface was tough going up, it was scary coming down. Hey, I don't heal as fast as I used to. But thats not where I fell, and I'm now a big believer in quad piston hydraulic disk brakes.
I put 18psi in my tires, not sure if less would have been better. Previously I noticed climbing a 5% grade cost about 4% battery per mile, net 2% per mile when coasting back down. I was noticing the same 4% per mile at half the steepness on sand, until I had the problem I opened this post with. I kept in low PAS, never higher than 3, with throttle pulses to get through the muck, and worried the whole time about my power budget. When I reached the top, I was showing 30%, but after a short rest, I was showing 48%. And of course I needed little power on the way back down. Average under 10mph going up, a little over 10 coming back and that mostly because I was riding the brakes for the first third of the descent. On balance I used almost a full charge on 2 batteries for just 25 slow miles. (Caveat: My display seems to be programmed with 26" tire diameter, and of course that's the rim not the outside, so my mileage a speed readouts may be a bit off.)
So, what's happening with my top battery is that it comes loose from the lower end, where the lock is. Popped halfway out at that end, it's still making contact at the higher end, until I hit another bump. A bump on a curve, when I was leaning the bike, actually caused it to fall all the way out. Fortunately it had soft ground to land on. I'm thinking this is a potentially serious flaw, and I rather fix the mechanism than deal with a ratchet strap every time I head out. So far, I haven't inspected the mechanism - my bike's still caked with mud, and tomorrow when it warms back up is soon enough to check it out.
EDIT: Threw the chain again, same as before off the chain ring to the outside. I found a website that calculates BCD from where the bolt holes are placed, 130mm for the Biktrix Beast, and ordered a chain guard from amazon, but as usual shipping is delayed.
So today I took the dirt road into Joshua Tree National Park - no gate there, just ride on in. That road doesn't connect up with any of the paved amenities but does go to Eureka Peak, about 5000' total and more than 1500' from my starting elevation. Round trip 25mi. It's high enough to have gotten snow recently and that snow was starting to melt, so just where the climb got steep I had to contend with barely solid snow, mud, and sand. Just what our bikes are made for, right?
I have a few more observations. The first is that I mainly enjoyed myself, got more exercise than I have in ages, and I wouldn't have been doing it but for my new ebike. For those who don't know, a Joshua tree is actually a cactus, but it's the size and approximate shape of a tree - see the photo or google for a better one. It was gorgeous, and over 50 degrees Fahrenheit when I left though of course colder at the top. From the peak I can see my town in one direction, Palm Springs in the other. I tried to get pictures but without telephoto they don't turn out, and with telephoto you get no sense of scale.
Second, my bike has a conventional cassete, 11-speed, instead of the IGH, and it has a wider range of gears. Though I said before I didn't need those big gears after all, even on a steep hill, that changes in muck. I was using low gear a lot. However, when the going gets tough and I have a choice between feathering the throttle or shifting to a lower gear and have power cut out briefly, it seemed safer to go for throttle.
Third, the bike may be made for these conditions, but I'm not. I tumbled twice, no damage just messy. There's a paradox involved, in that I needed a minimum speed to get through the sloppiest parts, but too much speed and I'd miss the next curve. Mud was definitely better for traction than half-melted snow. I briefly regretted ditching those pathetic fenders but quickly realized they'd have made no real difference. If the slick sloppy surface was tough going up, it was scary coming down. Hey, I don't heal as fast as I used to. But thats not where I fell, and I'm now a big believer in quad piston hydraulic disk brakes.
I put 18psi in my tires, not sure if less would have been better. Previously I noticed climbing a 5% grade cost about 4% battery per mile, net 2% per mile when coasting back down. I was noticing the same 4% per mile at half the steepness on sand, until I had the problem I opened this post with. I kept in low PAS, never higher than 3, with throttle pulses to get through the muck, and worried the whole time about my power budget. When I reached the top, I was showing 30%, but after a short rest, I was showing 48%. And of course I needed little power on the way back down. Average under 10mph going up, a little over 10 coming back and that mostly because I was riding the brakes for the first third of the descent. On balance I used almost a full charge on 2 batteries for just 25 slow miles. (Caveat: My display seems to be programmed with 26" tire diameter, and of course that's the rim not the outside, so my mileage a speed readouts may be a bit off.)
So, what's happening with my top battery is that it comes loose from the lower end, where the lock is. Popped halfway out at that end, it's still making contact at the higher end, until I hit another bump. A bump on a curve, when I was leaning the bike, actually caused it to fall all the way out. Fortunately it had soft ground to land on. I'm thinking this is a potentially serious flaw, and I rather fix the mechanism than deal with a ratchet strap every time I head out. So far, I haven't inspected the mechanism - my bike's still caked with mud, and tomorrow when it warms back up is soon enough to check it out.
EDIT: Threw the chain again, same as before off the chain ring to the outside. I found a website that calculates BCD from where the bolt holes are placed, 130mm for the Biktrix Beast, and ordered a chain guard from amazon, but as usual shipping is delayed.
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Power is volts times amps. Voltage is set by the batteries in the string, and current is set by the battery management system and the controller. The controller is stock, and our batteries have a 30 amp Battery Management System (40 amp peak) per Biktrix, but they use the same batteries as Leili. And of course those batteries have 13 cells per string (approx 48V). With 14 cells per string, you get 52V, so about 10% more power for same amps at cost of endurance. However I'm not aware of a 52V option. I talked with Pushkar at Watt Wagons about an X1 controller, and he says programming the controller for 2300W (peak 3000W) won't actually make any difference without the BMS pushing more amps. Of course, if you upgrade the BMS, you need batteries designed for faster discharge. I saw a youtube video comparing actual battery performance against advertised specs, and the takeaway was that Chinese batteries come with false claims and that Sony makes batteries designed for fast discharge that actually perform at 90% of what they advertise. So that's what I'll use if I ever make my own batteries, but I don't know if I'm that ambitious, partly because I'm more concerned with range than speed. Also, I wasn't looking for a scooter. The point is to pedal, and if I run out of pedal resistance at top speed now, surely the problem will be worse with more power.
I haven't exceeded 25mph on level ground, and I run out of pedal at that point. Possibly I'm actually going 28, per post above my tire diameter is programmed at 26" and that's the inner, not the outer diameter. Difference between eco and sport seems to be more aggressive acceleration but no difference in top speed.
RMK!
Well-Known Member
Someone needs to make a gates belt drive front sprocket guard for these bikes. I have snagged a pant leg several times and while it is less destructive than on a chain drive, it is still annoying and potentially dangerous.
I also changed out the grips based upon hand numbness and wrist pain during and after long rides. As suggested here by @Terry777, I bought the Ergon grips although I chose the cheaper GP1 model. They do make a difference and greatly reduce my hand numbness and wrist pain on long rides.
I also changed out the grips based upon hand numbness and wrist pain during and after long rides. As suggested here by @Terry777, I bought the Ergon grips although I chose the cheaper GP1 model. They do make a difference and greatly reduce my hand numbness and wrist pain on long rides.
RMK!
Well-Known Member
His max speed number for the MD 1000 was 41.9 and he rounded to 42. That was him with max pedal effort, speed unlocked on flat ground. I have found that I can get the MD 1000 into the mid 30's which is fast enough on any ebike. I could probably get to 40 given a long enough straight flat stretch but not sustain that for more than a few seconds.
He also said that he was doing 35 with just the throttle. What speed have you reached on throttle alone?
RMK!
Well-Known Member
I haven't tried it. I pedal roughly 99.167% of the time.
tykoehn1
Active Member
I was going to try that amount of tension first. Luna recommended even higher tension but I am worried about causing premature wear on the bearings. Let me know if you have issues.Well that took <30 minutes. I down loaded the Gates Carbon Drive app from the app store and followed the procedure in the Bikeaholics youtube video referenced in my last post. My belt was loose (slipped a couple to times yesterday) and I tightened it and measured the frequency using the Carbon Drive app. It is now 44-47Hz which is within the 35-50Hz recommended for an IGH. Be sure to follow the Bikeaholic instructions and you will be good to go.
I have to say I love this aspect of the internet. Ask the right question and you can get answers.
Thanks for this, I thought those sliders were just the back side of the lock.
However, it's not my problem; the slider won't engage because the battery doesn't quite seat properly. It doesn't slide all the way down at the rear becuase it doesn't slide all the way onto the plug at the top. Same with both batteries, and I saw no deformation or foreign object to cause the problem, so I jammed it. We'll see when I remove it if I broke anything.
Yeah, I've wondered about that video too. He gets to 30-something on throttle and pushes it to over 40 by pedaling. I have no reason to impugn his claim, but I only get to mid thirties coasting down a long steep grade, and at that speed spinning the pedals against no resistance makes no difference. Unfortunately, it's easier in my town to find a long, continuous grade than a long, continuous level stretch.
Biktrix gives me a 44 tooth chain ring, 130mm bolt circle diameter. Does the Bikonit have a bigger chain ring?
tykoehn1
Active Member
Sonder
Member
On page 3 Terry77 posted a photo of his display that showed 43,8 miles ph.
RMK wrote "did you unlock the controllers speed"
I am not sure what that means (just change the max speed in the screen settings or is it changing something in the controller using the pc cable?).
30 miles ph is really slow for a 1000 bafang? cuz a 750 Himiway does 28 miles on GPS.
Even the 750 HD does 28 mph throttle only with Bolton, but hè did not use GPS.
Mid 30 like RMK says is more like IT, cuz an Occomile with 1000 Bafang does 34,6.
RMK wrote "did you unlock the controllers speed"
I am not sure what that means (just change the max speed in the screen settings or is it changing something in the controller using the pc cable?).
30 miles ph is really slow for a 1000 bafang? cuz a 750 Himiway does 28 miles on GPS.
Even the 750 HD does 28 mph throttle only with Bolton, but hè did not use GPS.
Mid 30 like RMK says is more like IT, cuz an Occomile with 1000 Bafang does 34,6.
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I must have a really slow one then. Raised the limit so the speedo shows highest available (60mph) but 25 is all I have been able to get up to so far.
I mean if i have it on the kickstand, tilt the bike to the side so the back wheel is in the air and hit the throttle it will read out at 45 but not with me on it riding.
RMK!
Well-Known Member
I rode 23 miles with wife today. She is the "pace car" so it was like 13-14 mph average, ECO mode, pas 3 and I ended up with 72% battery remaining. When I ride alone it is usually 30-40 miles and I'm guessing my average speed is like 23-25mph. Mostly ECO and PAS 4 with some PAS 5 on hills and I'll pretty much exhaust the batteries. I'm 210lbs and I think that and my hard pedaling eats battery as today I could have easily gone 60 miles today at that SLOW pace. Riding this bike at 13-14 mph is just wrong unless its on a gnarly trail.
Hey @GEF, I think it's time to give Biktrix a call. I assume both batteries work fine in the lower battery position, correct?
A poorly seating upper battery due to the frame or connector misalignment sounds like a major issue. I had a fat tire folder delivered to me with the bottom bracket welded on crooked. They took it back and refunded me but it was a big hassle.
Hey @GEF, I think it's time to give Biktrix a call. I assume both batteries work fine in the lower battery position, correct?
A poorly seating upper battery due to the frame or connector misalignment sounds like a major issue. I had a fat tire folder delivered to me with the bottom bracket welded on crooked. They took it back and refunded me but it was a big hassle.
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