Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion

What upgrades are you planning on doing?
I bought me a horn, an external light for front and back. But will definitely do more upgrades. I was waiting to get the bike before I buy anything else.
BTW the front light that comes with the bike is not bad at all. I was expecting much worse
 
Quick question to the guys that have a MD1000
When you shift in a higher gear is your shifter hard to press ? My shifter that increases the gears gives me some troubles. It takes lots of power to press and change the gear. The one that decreases the gears is very soft and easy to press.
Yes, shifting down (5th to 4th to 3rd etc ) requires quite a bit more effort. Shifting up is very fast and easy. Thinking about it, there must a spring in the IGH that causes that. The cable can only pull, not push so the spring assists the upshifts. I find that I use 4th and 5th gears 90% of the time. 1, 2 are reserved for steep trail uphill only while 3rd handles steep paved hills. In fact it is easy to ghost pedal in the lower gears so I tend to avoid them. Remember, no power (pedal or throttle) when shifting with the SA IHG. The throttle cuts out automatically but I always coast during shifting and it has worked flawlessly.
 
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i am so happy guys, it was a hassle to pick the bike up. But now after is fully assembled and sitting in my garage I can easily say that this bike is a BEAST and I do not regret buying it. Battery came with 0% so I need to charge them.
View attachment 76001
I hope you don't mind that I used your bike photo as my guide for installing the rear rack. Everything else was easy but the rear rack has many parts and is a bit fiddly. I'm thinking I will drill a hole in the rear rack plate and the rear fender to anchor the floppy rear fender to the rack. It looks good and provides good coverage for the mega fat tires and making it more stable will payoff. I'll use a rubber gasket between the rack and fender to prevent rattle or scratching the fender.
 
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I hope you don't mind that I used your bike photo as my guide for installing the rear rack. Everything else was easy but the rear rack has many parts and is a bit fiddly. I'm thinking I will drill a hole in the rear rack plate and the rear fender to anchor the floppy rear fender to the rack. It looks good and provides good coverage for the mega fat tires and making it more stable will payoff. I'll use a rubber gasket between the rack and fender to prevent rattle or scratching the fender.
No drilling is necessary, I went on Facebook Bikonit page and found a bike with racks installed so I used that as my sample.
 
RMK let me know if you need more photos
265AEBE8-0AE2-46F2-B9FC-BEFDB196B50D.png
 
No drilling is necessary, I went on Facebook Bikonit page and found a bike with racks installed so I used that as my sample.
Thanks Shurikman, "No drilling is necessary" is a true statement but I don't like the seatpost only attachment of the rear fender. It moves to easily with the bike in motion so I will be securing mine to the back rack plate. I hate rattles ...

At least the back fender will be workable (for me) but the front fender is pretty cheesy. The front rack makes it invisible to the rider so as long as it stays put and doesn't rattle, I'll live with it. I believe Terry777 used zip ties to secure his fenders and that is another option.
 
I think everyone here likes ebike pics so here are some pics of the MD 1000, indoors, fully dressed with Leili supplied racks and fenders. Both racks are very sturdy and appropriately stout like the bike. I also did a 100 miles in bolt check and all were snug. Leili did a nice job setting up the bike, it was well packed and I found no dings, dents or scratches anywhere. My driving 370 miles to avoid 2 additional loading/unloading's of the bike probably helped. The delivery drivers hate heavy boxes ...

On another note, I have noticed that the in the Bolton and Biktrix Threads the versions of these bikes that are sold there are not getting many/any posts on the EBR Forum. I know they are selling well so that seems weird. My guess is the Bolton/Biktrix buyer is paying more and so is relying on the dealer to answer questions and provide support. Here in the wild west of factory direct ebike purchases, we have no documentation nor any significant support from the suppliers, so other owners become our information sources. Seems to be working so that's cool. We all have saved quite a bit of money and that can be used in anyway we see fit. The product is solid and purchasing through Alibaba is secure and shipping supply issues should be the same as the branded bikes that are being assembled and setup in the same factories. Based upon my experience, even with the delays and communication issues, I have to give this buying method a big thumbs up.
 

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I think everyone here likes ebike pics so here are some pics of the MD 1000, indoors, fully dressed with Leili supplied racks and fenders. Both racks are very sturdy and appropriately stout like the bike. I also did a 100 miles in bolt check and all were snug. Leili did a nice job setting up the bike, it was well packed and I found no dings, dents or scratches anywhere. My driving 370 miles to avoid 2 additional loading/unloading's of the bike probably helped. The delivery drivers hate heavy boxes ...

On another note, I have noticed that the in the Bolton and Biktrix Threads the versions of these bikes that are sold there are not getting many/any posts on the EBR Forum. I know they are selling well so that seems weird. My guess is the Bolton/Biktrix buyer is paying more and so is relying on the dealer to answer questions and provide support. Here in the wild west of factory direct ebike purchases, we have no documentation nor any significant support from the suppliers so other owners become our information sources. Seems to be working so that's cool. We all have saved quite a bit of money and that can be used in anyway we see fit. The product is solid and purchasing through Alibaba is secure and shipping supply issues should be the same as they bikes are being assembled and setup in the same factories. Based upon my experience, even with the delays and communication issues, I have to give this buying method a big thumbs up.
I agree 100%
👍🏻
 
RMK ,
On the charger did you select 110 or left as it came with 220. See the photo [ATTAC

First Impressions MD 1000

I took the bike for a shakedown cruise riding 30km on trails paved and dirt. I decided the first ride should be with the out of the box controller settings in ECO mode with the PAS set to 5 for the duration. The only modifications I did to the bike were the left side bar end mirror and the Suntour suspension seatpost.

It is a big bike but the standard seatpost was too short for me even at the max extension. The 400mm Suntour gave me the additional needed seat height and ideal riding position. The power and handling of the MD 1000 are amazing especially considering the frame size, weight and tire size. I was able to throw the bike around sharp corners and always felt in control. I ride this route regularly on my Specialized Creo and while they are VERY different bikes, the handling of the much bigger MD 1000 was different but very good.

The power of the Bagang Ultra is well documented. The MD benefits from the combination of Torque and Cadence sensors working in tandem to achieve a nice smooth application of power. I’ve read a number of critiques of the stock Bafang controller. Harsh and abrupt were descriptors prompting folks to pony up to $1000 for reworked controllers over the standard Ultra controller. My Creo is torque based (no throttle) and when using it’s optimal Turbo Mode the power application feels similar to the MD 1000. Granted this is based upon one ride, but my experience with the Creo torque based mid-drive gives me a reference point.

Top speed on flat paved ground was 46km/hr throttle only. Top speed spirited pedaling on a slight down hill was just over 50km/hr. I assume unlocking the controller will allow a bit more speed and I plan on doing that soon. As for the range, the 30km ride consumed nearly 40% of the fully charged batteries. It is a cold (for California) mid 40’s so that might be a factor. Even so, it should allow me to get a 50-60 mile range if I am careful. Extra range was one selling point on tweaking the controller settings so it is something I will address in the near future.

The IGH performed flawlessly. Very quiet and the 5 gears will address any conditions I will encounter.

So to sum up my first ride on my MD 1000, I’m glad I waited out the crazy delays and feel this bike is exactly what I wanted. Now if I can find a bike rack that fits the 50” wheelbase. I attached some photos below. The first one is the sensor magnet position on the rear wheel spoke. It seems a little off but it seemed to work fine. I was hoping @Terry777 could check his and see if it is in a different position?
Hey RMK!, I can confirm that my sensor is the same exact way as yours in the picture and seems ok to me.
 
Hey RMK & others, Mazel Tov on your new sexy beast...it looks Great!
I am assuming that if some one would prefer the r fender adjusted lower to the rear tire it can be done by adjusting the 2 twist knobs (plastic or metal?) @ the pivot points?
PS there's some shots floating of the bike w/the rear fender 2" above the rear tire and some that looks like it hits the rf w/ 4-5" of spacing?
Please advise,
Thx!
 
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Hey RMK & others, Mazel Tov on your new sexy beast...it looks Great!
I am assuming that if some one would prefer the RR fender adjust lower to the rear tire it can be done by adjusting the 2 twist knobs (plastic or metal?) @ the pivot points?
PS there's some shots floating of the bike w/the rear fender 2" above the rear tire and some that looks like it hits the rf w/ 4-5" of spacing?
Please advise,
Thx!
Sheynem dank,
The rear fender is adjustable but it still shakes and rattles like mad when the going gets rough so I will be drilling. Had a mystery rear flat today. Tire looked perfect inside and out but there was a 1/8" cut in the tube near the centerline. I patched it, rode another 20 miles and it seems the patch is holding. Made the repair with the wheel on so that was good. Handlebar Jack just paid for itself today. I should've taken pics but was in a hurry to get it done and back on the road. Word to the wise, ALWAYS carry a patch kit and a pump (or Co2). Filled it to 15lbs with one Co2 bottle. Topped it off to 20lbs when I got home. And yes, I have slime and know about the other preventive methods but the Maxis looked indestructible .. NOT!
 
45 signed an order today banning transactions with Alipay and other payment systems used in China, because why not cause havoc on the way out the door. Hopefully it will be undone 1/21 and much ado about nothing. Would certainly kill the ebike market
Regardless of that moronic move, credit card transactions with Alibaba should still be fine. Call me crazy, but I for one do not want to apply for credit with ANY Chinese financial institution.
 
I just had to extend the receiving time as its been 59 days since my bikes where shipped. The said I could pick up the bikes and be refunded $100 dollars but I declined.

Also its been 86 days since I paid in full, and 225 days since I ordered.
 
I just had to extend the receiving time as its been 59 days since my bikes where shipped. The said I could pick up the bikes and be refunded $100 dollars but I declined.

Also its been 86 days since I paid in full, and 225 days since I ordered.
You are the Iron Man of all MD 1000 customers. I hope you are as pleased as I have been with the product.
 
Yes, shifting down (5th to 4th to 3rd etc ) requires quite a bit more effort. Shifting up is very fast and easy. Thinking about it, there must a spring in the IGH that causes that. The cable can only pull, not push so the spring assists the upshifts. I find that I use 4th and 5th gears 90% of the time. 1, 2 are reserved for steep trail uphill only while 3rd handles steep paved hills. In fact it is easy to ghost pedal in the lower gears so I tend to avoid them. Remember, no power (pedal or throttle) when shifting with the SA IHG. The throttle cuts out automatically but I always coast during shifting and it has worked flawlessly.
Do you start in first then skip gears or go through the gears?
 
Do you start in first then skip gears or go through the gears?
I would only start in first or second if I was stopped on a very steep hill going up. Most often I start in 4th or 5th which are my normal riding gears. I have found that the initial push you get from the motors torque/cadence sensors is spirited but controllable. Regardless of the gear you're in, gentle application of the throttle can be the best way to negotiate tight or difficult situations with this large ebike. Once your rolling, the handling for such a big machine is stellar IMHO.

Also, mine always starts in PAS 1 on power up so that mitigates the power surge. Again, I like to ride briskly (fast) so I usually up the PAS to 3 or more ... :)
 
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Sheynem dank,
The rear fender is adjustable but it still shakes and rattles like mad when the going gets rough so I will be drilling. Had a mystery rear flat today. Tire looked perfect inside and out but there was a 1/8" cut in the tube near the centerline. I patched it, rode another 20 miles and it seems the patch is holding. Made the repair with the wheel on so that was good. Handlebar Jack just paid for itself today. I should've taken pics but was in a hurry to get it done and back on the road. Word to the wise, ALWAYS carry a patch kit and a pump (or Co2). Filled it to 15lbs with one Co2 bottle. Topped it off to 20lbs when I got home. And yes, I have slime and know about the other preventive methods but the Maxis looked indestructible .. NOT!
The MAXXIS exo has sidewall protection only, that’s why I went for tyre liners. Hopefully that gives me all round bulletproof jacket! Time will tell! We’ll see. Glad you got it fixed and on your way pronto! 👍
 
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