Gears and Shifting Video?

Kaldeem

Active Member
Hey Court,

I posted a question in the comments of the Optibike Pioneer Allroad review asking if you would mind doing a video on everything to do with Gears and Shifting. I'm terrible at it and would need something more comprehensive than what's on YouTube, so I can wrap my head around it and practice (which I am on my normal bike but I don't understand it) more before I upgrade to an ebike.

Thanks Kal
 
There is a couple of ways to think about how gears work. I'll try to describe the practical use.

Gears take your input - pedaling the crank - and translate that into some level of mechanical advantage in propelling the rear wheel. The easier the pedaling gear, the lower the mechanical advantage, and the slower the bike goes. The higher the gear, the faster the bike goes, but the effort to pedal is higher.

The lowest gear (easiest to pedal, slowest) on a non-hub geared bike is the smallest chain ring (front) and the largest rear cog. The highest gear (hardest to pedal, fastest) is the largest ring on the front and smallest cog in the rear. The goal is to basically find the best combination for the pedaling effort and revolutions (cadence) you want to exert. If pedaling is too hard, shift the rear to a larger cog (down a gear), If you are pedaling with no resistance, then shift the cog to a smaller cog (up a gear).

If that isn't all confusing enough, if you have more than one chain ring in the front, you likely have a lot of overlap in the gearing. In other words, the small chain ring on the smallest cog will be roughly equivalent to some combination on the larger chainring with a larger cog. This is because of something called "cross-chaining" which happens when you try and run small chain ring and small cog or large chainring and large cog. The chain will often rub the front derailleur because it is at too much of an angle connecting the selected gears. When this happens, switch to the other chain ring and find the matching cog to stop the rubbing. Many e-bikes only have a single chain ring, so cross chaining is not an issue.

I know this sounds complicated, but it is easier when you just experiment. My suggestion is that you find a pedal effort and speed you are comfortable with and then find the gear that makes that possible. As the road moves up or down, adjust for that.

As for mid-drive e-bikes, the motor is using the same drivetrain as your legs, so the gear is important to make sure the motor is running efficiently. If you pedal without a motor in a really high gear, you will likely tire quickly because your legs are expending a ton of energy. The motor works the same way. Current draw goes up, the motor works harder, and is inefficient. Think of trying to start your car in 4th gear. It would chug and buck and fight you. Bike gearing is the same.

I don't know if any of this helped, but hopefully it helped a little.
 
Great reply Marc:
Kaldeem, if you get a mid-drive bike like Optibike's Pioneer Allroad, you should cut the throttle before shifting to lessen the wear and tear on the derailleur and chain, and make your shifts smoother.
The chain does have to be moving however, so pedaling gently is a good idea for easy shifts (on you and the bike's drivetrain components). The Allroad has a triple chainring in front so cross-chaining will probably not be an issue if you stick to the middle front chainring except when you need a real granny gear for climbing; (small front chainring) or you're speeding along on the flats with a sweet tailwind (a pretty rare occurrence). Then you will probably want to shift up to the big gear in the front. There's probably no need to mention this, but never backpedal and shift. Or better yet, just never backpedal at all.
Anticipate what gear you'll need before you need it so you can set the bike up ahead of time. This is the case for starting off from a dead stop; you don't want to be in the same gear you use for going 15 mph on level ground. And you don't want to—clunk, ka-chunk—gear down as you are getting underway. Practice makes perfect.
Allen
 
@MarcD and @Reddy Kilowatt : Yeah actually that was explained very well. I just wish I could see the gear I'm going into like on a manual transmission car; 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc... ya know? I've seen some pricey bikes with digital readers for the gears, but I don't know if that's an option for the PAR (pioneer all-road) or any e bike for that matter.

I've been practicing a lot, but I don't' feel like I understand it any better while doing it though. See I sold my car in like February and have been getting rides and or biking it to work and school, but the area were I live in CO is freaking hilly as camel's back. So I'm constantly switching gears (and dropping the chain) to try to stay pedaling, but most of the time I have to get off the bike and walk it up hill.

Thanks for the tips fellas. ;)
 
Kaldeem, you hit on a couple of topics worth discussing in your post.

First, many consumer level bikes (that aren't MTBs) are not geared low enough for hilly areas. A wide gear range is an expensive thing, so many manufacturers skimp on the low end.

Second, if you are dropping the chain, you may be shifting into a low gear late, when you have a lot of torque on the drivetrain. This usually happens when shifting the front chainrings under heavy load. A good tip for climbing hills is to anticipate the hill, and get into the small ring before you start your ascent. The drivetrain is much more forgiving shifting from cog to cog on the cassette than shifting the big rings up front.

Practice is important. It took me a while to really understand hill climbing and how to approach it. It's also just hard to do! But it gets better th emote you do it.

I got back into biking one year ago (non-ebike). I rode a charity ride of 25 miles after 4 weeks of being on the bike. On 3 hills I had to walk. I just couldn't climb them. This year, I rode 50 miles in the same ride, and the first 25 was the same path. I not only didn't have to walk hills but I was passing and pulling away from my colleagues on them. And I am a 260lb fatty. It gets better, just keep at it!
 
Incredibly helpful info, guys. I'm looking for my first ebike and have been worried about screwing it up due to my horrible shifting. I can drive any manual shift machine...other than a darn bike!
Your posts helped, and I'll refer back to them.
 
@BenS, I was the same way. I can drive an anything with a Manuel transmission but before these posts, I was struggling to shift gears on my bike. Now I'm doing much better and excited about getting my ebike soon.
 
Last time I was on a bike was when I got my old Raleigh M-50 back from the local shop after a tune-up and once over. Bike was sound, and I was ready to dive into biking. I jumped my curb, took it down the street 50 feet, shifted, threw the chain, walked it home, and stuck it in the basement. lol
That was 4 years ago.
My forthcoming e-bike purchase might be impetuous considering I haven't re-applied myself to learning to shift, but if I stick to one derailleur up front I'll be ok.
 
Nexus hubs (internal) can be shifted at a stop, there are even some CVT options (constantly variable) out there, perhaps something to keep in mind while you are picking a rig. -S
 
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